So my shower is mounted to the left side of my trailer,
and the propane is mounted to the right side.
I am wanting to run a hard line thru the trailer under
the countertop in the galley. Thinking about using 1/4”
soft copper and a tubing bender. Just not sure about using
copper. Other option is to use stainless tubing that is used
For brake lines. Anyone have any opinions or advice on
which direction I should go?
Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailersor t n ttt for short (tnttt.com) |
Hard lines for propane
2 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Hard lines for propane
by ricky herbold » Sat Jun 29, 2024 1:35 pm
- ricky herbold
- Teardrop Master
- Posts: 127
- Images: 0
- Joined: Sat Jul 27, 2019 6:14 am
- Location: Spring Valley Lake CA.
Re: Hard lines for propane
by tony.latham » Sun Jun 30, 2024 8:22 pm
From a book someone allegedly wrote about building teardrops:
This propane system was complicated because my two appliances had different pressure needs. The Propex heater requires a two-stage regulator that provides 11” of water column (or about .4 PSI), which is the same pressure that feeds your barbecue. The Partner stove regulator is rated at 27 PSI. Thus I needed two regulators and two lines.
I had planned on running black steel pipe for this but after a fair amount of midnight reflection; I recruited a friend who has installed propane systems for nearly thirty years. He suggested using rubber propane line for the heater but was flummoxed by the high pressure needed by the stove. I explained that propane wasn’t any different than bottled water. He disagreed. We ended up selecting steel-reinforced rubber line designed for propane-powered vehicles. In his world, it’s called “braided liquid motor fuel line.”
The line lengths were measured and my friend cut the lines and attached the fittings which were 1/4” male NPT. They were simple to fish under the chassis and up to the regulators. They were easily secured with rubber-covered clamps screwed to the floor. The stove line went down the left side and the heater line followed the right side.
Any propane distributorship should be able to make these supply hoses for you.
I used yellow Teflon tape made for natural gas and propane lines to seal the fittings. Make sure to check for leakage with a spray bottle filled soapy water after the lines are pressurized.
For my teardrop, this is definitely the way to go. Easy-peasy.
Tony
This propane system was complicated because my two appliances had different pressure needs. The Propex heater requires a two-stage regulator that provides 11” of water column (or about .4 PSI), which is the same pressure that feeds your barbecue. The Partner stove regulator is rated at 27 PSI. Thus I needed two regulators and two lines.
I had planned on running black steel pipe for this but after a fair amount of midnight reflection; I recruited a friend who has installed propane systems for nearly thirty years. He suggested using rubber propane line for the heater but was flummoxed by the high pressure needed by the stove. I explained that propane wasn’t any different than bottled water. He disagreed. We ended up selecting steel-reinforced rubber line designed for propane-powered vehicles. In his world, it’s called “braided liquid motor fuel line.”
The line lengths were measured and my friend cut the lines and attached the fittings which were 1/4” male NPT. They were simple to fish under the chassis and up to the regulators. They were easily secured with rubber-covered clamps screwed to the floor. The stove line went down the left side and the heater line followed the right side.
Any propane distributorship should be able to make these supply hoses for you.
I used yellow Teflon tape made for natural gas and propane lines to seal the fittings. Make sure to check for leakage with a spray bottle filled soapy water after the lines are pressurized.
For my teardrop, this is definitely the way to go. Easy-peasy.
Tony
-
tony.latham - Gold Donating Member
- Posts: 7073
- Images: 17
- Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2013 4:03 pm
- Location: Middle of Idaho on the edge of nowhere