The Memorial F150 Craptor. A semi foamie camper shell camper

[dbhosttexas]

Not sure if I mentioned it in this thread yet. But the pop up camper was a bust. It was raiing REALLY hard the night I inspected it, and the leaks were everywhere. Hard pass. I honestly don't think the seller knew about them. I bet I could have fixed it, but I am a big guy that does NOT want to get on a camper roof unless absolutely necessary, and not for anywhere near what he was asking for that camper.

Truck is running, cam timing issue on the new crate motor is fixed under warranty (warranty claim while installing the new engine yay!) Pretty common issue actually, but must keep an eye on it.

Drive cycle done late last night, the inspection station was closed. That is being done today and we pick up this afternoon. Actually to my understanding, he is going to deliver to me...

So I roll out the BFGs to the bed of the truck and head on over to get them installed tomorrow.

The weekend weather is going to be perfect if accuweather is to be believed, so the bedrug and camper stuff get installed on Saturday.

I should in theory be done with this stage of the build. Not sure if the foamie pop up should be a separate build thread. But unless I get lucky and find a pre made pop up in the weight range I need, in the condition I insist on and a price I am willing to pay, I am going to go forward with the foamie... So will need help here...

[dbhosttexas]

Truck is done. First attempt at inspection failed. Literally threw a code on the way to the inspection station. Evap system error. Found the evap line at the firewall got pinched and cracked when doing engine swap. Line sourced, installed, code cleared, going back for reinspection tomorrow... Yay for requiring emissions inspections!

Should be in my hands by lunch time, then to the tax office for the sticker, and the tire shop for mount and balance of 5 tires...

I am not thrilled about the gap between my bed cabinet and the truck bed wall, and the electrical cabinet and truck bed wall. A redesign is in order. So while all the major components go in, I am planning them with the ability to be quick connected. And the use of a contour gauge is in order.

Since I am going to redo it, and I have the hi top topper, the plan is the electrical cabinet is absolutely going to be foamie / PMF for weight considerations. Bottom of the cab to house the port o potty, and then a shelf / mid compartment that will have a door, and will house the lifepo4 batteries. I need to figure out how to keep them above freezing so I can charge them. Of course the charging and output circuits. The solar charge controller / DC to DC charger will be In the compartment with the batteries, and the inverter will be on the ouside with appropriate wiring run to the batteries via hot / ground lugs. The 12V output will go to 3 12v sockets, 2 dual USB charging sockets in a panel that will be integrated into the bed side of the compartment. An additional Dual USB charging outlet will be run up to the ceiling to power the LED interior light strips. And a single 12V socket will run from the bed of the truck to the back seat of the cab to power the fridge. I need to design and print one, but I will 3D print a wall mount / hanger for my Z2 travel CPAP and mask. It might be nice to have the hose overhead a touch for once... Then is the top compartment should just be an open shelf. This should be storage for a couple of days worth of clothes, although the bulk of the clothes storage should be in the cab of the truck.

I will retain the aisle, but if I can manage, I want side storage opposite the bed platform. A way to mount the instant shower would be nice...

And I need to figure out a work surface, a laptop desk of sorts so I can work seated in the bed of the truck should the weather determine that is what is going to happen...

[dbhosttexas]

So today was yet another delay. Allegedly the truck is done, but we did not get to the inspection station before they closed. This sh*t is no longer funny.

Well while biding my time, the new 12V output panel came in, So I installed it into the side of the electrical compartment. Without considering where the mattress of the bed will be in relation to this. I am of course an idiot.


I mean it looks good, but the bed platform covers part of the lower set of screws for the charge controller. And I have a 6" mattress.

Did I mention I am an idiot?

So I guess to minimize stress on the 12V cords, I will have to make some stand offs to basically make the electrical compartment mount a few inches further out than we had intended. I.E. 2x3 cutoffs. I should have plenty left over. I think... 1.5" is going to be close, but doable...

Did I mention I am an idiot?

I think I did mention elsewhere if not here, I intended on redoing the bed platform AND the electrical compartment, making the bed platform tighter to the truck bed wall, hopefully buying me back I believe 3 to 4".
The intent behind the new electrical compartment closet is basically full height in 3 tiers. Tier 1 will have a door facing forward, and will house the when not in use port o potty. Tier 2 will likewise have a door but this one to the bed side and will have a latch and will be sized to house 2 200 amp hour Chins lifepo4 batteries. The 12V output panel seen above and the battery monitor will be mounted to the door. The solar charge controller / DC to DC charger, and inverter will be mounted to the front of the cabinet. Tier 3 will be an open shelf with the opening toward the front. This will be basically a shelf that will hopefully be big enough to hold things like basic toiletries and frequent use items. On the side with a purpose designed 3D printed bracket will be my Z2 travel CPAP hose, and mask. At the very top will be another 12V to dual USB power outlet and switch pair to power my LED light strips that I intend on using for ceiling lights. I think if I Add a 2" Memory foam cushion, I can increase the height of my bed platform by about 3", which should put me into the truly useful under bed storage category again. Including keeping Aquatainers under there. Just move the mattress, sit on the 2" pad for a working seat and lastly, a flip up, or down work surface / desk.

[dbhosttexas]

So inspection is done, I am just now getting home from work, and an after work party, so I pick it up tomorrow. No problem. I work remote monday so I can get the tags, so just hope and pray my local PD is inattentive as usual through the weekend. The Malibu is almost out of gas, I need to get gas before getting the truck. I figure go put $10.00 in it. You see I am going to drop the car off at a friends place, the friend that is partnered in the shop, and then get the truck. I will go back for the car, well as soon as I can catch a lift. I'd like to get my Saturn out of the driveway first though. It just needs to go... Going to call the donation place monday.

I think I have a fix for the too low mount, and it gives me space to put a separator and a second battery in and that is just add 2x3 stock to the bottom. Kind of a box at the base same size. Pocket screws and glue should do the trick.

And I need to size up a new top. Just need to measure it up, set up the fence on my circ saw, and cut out from some cutoffs I have in the shop... Not going to un-bury my table saw for this...

So maybe, juuuust maybe, I can have the truck back this weekend, Bedrug installed, the electrical compartment fixed, and bed / electrical cabinets installed. Maybe even get it wired up and battery in...

That would leave me evenings to get the head unit and camera installed, and curtain rods installed. And at least SOME progress on the curtains considering I know jack squat about sewing in a straight line.

[dbhosttexas]

We were almost ready for delivery when we had an oopsie and back in it went. We found out the hard way what we forgot to double and triple check. I was concerned about the brakes being parked for as long as the truck was. Brake calipers are kind of unforgiving. Anyway after getting the drive cycles in, everything good, safety inspection done, we are ready to go with delivery, yep. Caliper blew out and sent the pedal to the floor. Good thing for the E brake...

So back in it goes for 4 new calipers and lines. And a fine tooth comb inspection. I did tell him I wanted it ready to drive to alaska trouble free if I wanted to...

Anyway, working on the solar setup getting it finalized. So here is what I have configured.

2 Dokio 300w folding panels. These output via SAE connectors and provide 20 amps each.
SAE connector / extensions to allow me to set up the panels a little bit away from the truck, into a 8ga Y cable, so they are run in parallel, giving me 40 amps input.
The Y cable goes into the SAE panel pass through with weather seal, again 8 ga.
8ga SAE cable to the factory solar input wires from the AtemPower 40 amp MPPT solar charge controller + DC to DC charger.
Chins lifepo4 battery, second pending delivery.

The engine has been outfitted with a 220 amp high output alternator, and 0 gauge wire has been run under the truck with a buss bar / box that will allow me connection for hot, ground goes to the chassis. From the Buss bar and chassis to the DC to DC charger is 8 gauge wire, and has a 50 amp breaker in line.

Some quality time with some cardboard and a profile gauge to make templates to rebuild my electrical cabinet. This will allow me the space for the 2 batteries.

I did not opt for the heated batteries. So I need to figure out a sub freezing battery warmer solution.

110V comes into the cap through a Noco I think is the brand marine 110v pass through, with a hunk of recycled outdoor extension cord to a single 110v duplex socket in a single gang surface mount box. The box is automotive grade black 3M mounting tape mounted directly to the inside of the cap with some liquid nails for good measure. My power cord has an inline GFCI that has been tested and is known to work well. And of course the Sportsman 1000 inverter generator has been run tested at least somewhat recently...

[dbhosttexas]

So as I mentioned previously the slide in camper buy was a serious dud.

The Semi foamie is definately on the outs for now. Use what i Have the best I can for now. Starting in the spring though, start building a proper camper.

My biggest design problem is active cooling.

I am getting a LOT of conflicting info on running AC on solar. I know it needs a lot. But how much is a lot varies by who you ask. And what AC. A good many folks say flat out impossible, or you need 4KW of panels and at least 1600 amp hours of battery blah blah blah...

Then I look at the Dometic RTX1000 and RTX2000 which quote a run time of 12 hours and a recommendation of 180 amp hour batteries.

Then I watch the the worlds DUMBEST power draw test videos with a configured but not installed anywhere so it just sits there running and not really transferring any thermal load tests of these ACs. Of course they will run full blast / full power consumption all the time. Air conditioners are NOT SUPPOSED TO HAVE THE EVAPORATOR AND CONDENSER COILS IN THE SAME AIR SPACE!!!!!

So I have absolutely ZERO fully trustworthy data on those. However factory specs SEEM to indicate 18amp running in eco mode, assuming reasonable space insulation, radiant barrier etc... I should in theory have no problem with 600w solar panels and 400 amp hours of lifepo4 batteries, but then again, no guarantees... Yay!

Now, especially with it just being me, sorry RJHowell, but I think I am going to have to go with a slide in build, not a flatbed build. I need an overcab sleeper sure, but there are lots of times I suspect I am going to need a pickup bed...

So first things first. Dig out my old designs for a slide in and see what needs to be changed / updated. Still going to go with a full 8", but use in bed tie downs instead of the exterior ones. No need for those after all...

[dbhosttexas]

Since I should be rebuilding my electrical cabinet. Here goes most likely an incredibly stupid question...

Would 1/2" pink XPS I think foam / PMF be sufficient for a pretty basic cabinet restraining 2 chins 200 amp hour 12v batteries?