TinkerTailor wrote:I did rip my 1X2s down to 2 inches on the tablesaw to frame the 2 inch foam.
Thank you for confirming,.
I was hoping for a 1.5" nominal thickness to save time and effort. I think I'm going to sleep on it for the next couple of days.
I went to home depot and really like how the 1.5 feel.
I'm able to source my 1.5" foam from a local neighborhood company that are 25psi instead of home depot's 15psi. Hoping that it might be good enough.
My trailer will be under 2' when folded and the walls are much shorter so I'm hoping I can get away with it.
I'm also planning for a "beefy" base since it need to support the roof while transporting (without the removable rafters) as well.
TinkerTailor wrote: Also, I am not using the sash locks as the vintage plans called for. I'm currently using angle irons/corner braces with knob screws. I'll try to remember to take a photo the next time the camper is set up. I think I will likely change this mechanism on at least one side, and I'll update here when/if I do.
I see how that will work, thank you very much!
TinkerTailor wrote:That speaker stand would work, I think. I actually ordered one, but I may return it, as I tried putting the roof up after installing the wheels in the walls pictured in a post above, and it went up much more easily than before. So I think I will just need a push stick like the the marine poles discussed above. I'll post about it when I've sorted that out for sure.
I'm currently finishing the PMF on the roof, then need to install aluminum strips that will permanently connect the roof to the front/back walls.
Thanks for the tips on the speaker stand.
So I was planning on having the roof and the 8 inches "overhang" to be all foam, with corner canvas overlap and form a continous "lid". My plan is that as part of set up, I will take the whole roof out/up, and insert rafters/spars then put the roof back on. This eliminate the need for having a curved top wall and the wheels and a "heavy" lid. Although I might change my mind later.
TinkerTailor wrote:Another design consideration I overlooked if you build something like this is to build one folding side wall about 2 1/8" or so taller than the other side (with that side of the base lower by an equivalent height) so that that wall can nest underneath the other side wall and the whole assembly can lay flat when the camper is not set up. I didn't anticipate that and had to find a work around late in the game, which I'll take photos of and post next time the camper is out of the garage and set up. If this makes no sense, the photos when I get to them will help.
Exactly!!! that is what I thought as well. Thank you for pointing that out. I think I notice the "additional strip" you put on in one of the base to heighten it to compensate for this.
I notice that you chamfer 45 degree the bottom corner of the folding walls is that to make the folding go deeper/lower. I remember you mentioned 45 degree chamfer the wall for waterproofing but can't ponder that concept yet. I am worried about how that will compromised the 1X2 frame but don't want to move to the heavy 2x2 frame. I am thinking about making wooden steps (that I need to use to step on to the camper) that t-nut bolt to the floor during transport that are the same height with the fold down touching it at the "wood frame" buffered with soft foam (our memory foam camping mattress) and hence all my folds will be exactly 90 degree with walls parallel to the floor.
I'm also planning for removable windows and doors as well.
Thanks,
Kim.