Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Thanks GPW and Tom, but remember the wise advice of the Kung Fu master, "patience grasshopper". Working in the flat has many advantages; less strain on my knees and back, and better quality control. Plus I think it will end up taking less time overall to do as much as I can on the bench.

All good things in time... but, unfortunately, time is running out for my "second annual" deadline.

Randy, one step at a time, one foot in front of the other, it takes many bites to eat an elephant.

And now to Mecca to take a few more bites.

It won't take quite as many bites if you take bigger ones (at least that's how my son eats). Great progress. Nobody wants to see TPCE all put together more than you, but we are not far behind. Kind of brings to mind a song about an ant and a rubber tree.

Late afternoon clouds came over and a bit of wind to cool off the 100+ degree weather so I went out to the shop and welded and ground on some trailer bits for about 10 minutes. Then pondered for about 1.5 hours.

Tomorrow is suppose to be as hot and my shop is an uninsulated metal building. Take a tray of cookies out there with me to bake.

Randy

Mmmm, cookies.

I try to position my work in front of the fan and drink lots of water. When using the second extension cord for the router or palm sander I have to unplug the ridge vent attic fan, and when doing glue ups I have to unplug the floor standing fan so it doesn't kill my working times.

Believe me, as soon as I finish any of those operations those fans go right back on!

I don't have any fans. Except for those 2.................................Big honking spud cellar vent fans. They run on 220. I think they are 2 hp. A real 2 hp and not melt down measurement. Might take care of the dust collection for me also.



Randy

KC... while you’re building , you might use up some scraps and construct yourself a Solar Cooker box ... They do make good cookies ...anywhere the sun is shining ...and they won’t burn either ... a very worthwhile addition to TPCE... JMHO “ GREEN" too !!!

Ps. makes good pumpkin pie too ...

Weather here is much cooler, of course it's also raining. That means no outside work. I am building in a very crowded 2 car garage. Working on the windows at present. The hatch kit should be here tomorrow. And I'm off until Monday!

Keep at it Bonnie, and remember to post up some pics on your build thread.

GPW, I don't think I'm going to have time for solar cookers any time soon.

Spent about an hour or two this evening putting together an extensive knock list. Here goes. The formatting got a little whacked; the bullets are sub tier steps, prerequisites or material reminders for the parent step.

To Do List
1. Hatch seal rabbet (sequence? maybe erect walls first?); locate hinge spar and determine hatch seal rabbet; recess in hatch sill?
2. Galley floor edge trim (alum L); recess fit?
3. Double check door skins; glue edges as req’d.
4. Route hatch wire way through bulkhead.
5. Skin bulkhead rear (commit to screwing bulkhead to walls from outside through foam …patch foam).
6. Mix larger dye batch; final color test.
7. Final sand and apply dye –
• Street side wall inner – sand & dye
• Curb side wall inner – sand & dye
• Bulkhead inner – sand & dye
• Bulkhead galley side – sand & dye
• Doors – sand & dye

8. Poly walls, and bulkhead; 3 coats.
9. Pre-canvas prep outside of walls –
• Back seal door flange, running lights & hatch rabbet
• Back canvas doors & other inside corners, as req’d
• Spackle touch up

10. Decide whether to pre-canvas walls before erection.
11. Erect walls and bulkhead -
• Smaller screws for bulkhead or use Kregg screws?
• Longer screws for wall to floor (double check inventory).
• PL adhesive

12. Make, finish and install cabinet ledgers, shelves, and front riblets (shelves & lower face frames can be sanded, stained, poly and installed permanently; need to box in hatch actuators).
13. Temporarily install upper cabinet face frames (consider pre-finishing, installing permanent, beveling tops and just touching up finish).
14. Bevel tops of upper face frames and bulkhead.
15. Remove, final sand, stain, poly and reinstall upper face frames.
16. Install roof –
• Skins
• Spars
• Fan ribs
• Fan wire way/rough wiring
• Foam
• Radius foam corners

17. Install roof fan.
18. Build hatch & fit hatch hinge -
• Oak Spars – Both sides of hinge
• Pre-finish hatch ribs
• Fit lower sill & final seal details
• Assemble ribs, spar & sill
• Make & fit actuator brackets and actuators
• Make & temporarily fit hatch switch bezel and door
• Hatch light blocking
• Towel rack
• Hatch wiring
• Fit and install tail light blocking & foam blisters
• Fit and install license plate bracket blocking (source license plate bracket)

19. Canvas exterior & primer (primer or straight to paint?).
20. Final fit & install doors, latches and striker plates.
21. Wiring & electrical rough-in.
22. Install seals –
• Doors
• Hatch

23. Install cabin on trailer –
• Finish swivel hitch
• Replace shackles, as req’d

24. Cut in make-up air chase and install bulkhead fan.
25. Tongue Box.
26. Finish electrical install -
• Final install hatch actuator switch
• Foot lights
• Galley light
• Interior lights
• Make interior switch and light standoffs
• Finish interior switch plates

27. Install exterior fittings –
• License plate bracket
• Hatch draw latches
• Door drip edging

28. Build & finish cooler tray, and install w/ slides.
29. Inspection & Registration.
30. Build lantern travel boxes/fuel can storage (later).
31. Add shovel & axe mounting provision (later).

Some of these I can probably get several things done in a day, others will likely take several days. There are only about 32 more build days before our scheduled vacation.

As hard as it is to swallow, the trip to Poet Creek might be in a tent. I can't put it off another year in difference to my sister's situation (she's doing an internship in Wyoming). The trip will most certainly be this year, and it is not looking good for camper completion. I do not want to cut corners or skip steps that would make later completion more difficult or time consuming.

Why not throw together a 'Weekender' for your trip

3 sheets of cheap 3/4" ply, a few of 1/8" for the roof over a few sticks of pine, a simple bulkhead and bench with storage holes, no rear hatch and basic doors. Glue and screw and your done. You already have the frame ready to go so no cost there. Put in a big comfy mattress and your away

This way at least you won't compromise your build quality on the TPCE by rushing it.

Thoughts?

HB

Heifer Boy wrote:Why not throw together a 'Weekender' for your trip

Monkey wrench in the machine.

Just off the top of my head my first reaction is that it sounds easier than it really is. I think any build is a major undertaking, even the most simple ones. To side track TPCE and start almost from scratch would add expense, and I'm still not sure I would get done in time. If I had made the switch to a weekender sooner, then maybe.

On the other hand, I have often said that I might have chosen a simpler project for my 1st. TPCE will get done, sooner or later.

There is a slight fear that if I don't stay dedicated to the final vision, it could all screech to a halt. I know that is irrational, but I have seen a lot of projects get started up here on the forum and then just sort of fade away before they're done.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will consider it seriously. Aside from working on the items on the above list, my next move is to consult with Karl on the list and absorb some of his sage advice (and of course, the advice from everyone here).

Thanks for checking it out, and for the suggestion.

No problem. Nothing like adding a twist to an already good plan

HB

I’m with KC ... a tent Works in a pinch , and doesn’t distract much from the main build ... sleeping in a tent for a couple nights should provide encouragement enough to get TPCE completed ...

Figure what you can do after assembly such as all the finishing for the interior and just start assembling. Once you start seeing structure happen your pace will accelerate trust me.

I nabbed this quote from Gage over on the Nebraska Barn Find-1946 Sportsman thread.

Gage wrote:I might add that to do it right it's going to take some time so don't get in a hurry and set a finish date and then start taking short cuts to meet that date. And it's all right to step away from it for a few weeks at a time if you don't think you’re getting anywhere.

I think it is good advice for any major project, especially a quality build. At least that's what I am trying to do.

Unless my memory is failing, since the start of the build (Feb 2012) I've taken a day or two away from it here and there, and about 3 weeks last year in August (2 weeks vacation and another week to get rolling again). I haven't worked on it every single day mind you, but a lot of them; seems like more days than not. Hell, I probably have more cumulative time in my commute to and from Mecca than most people put into their builds (40 min each trip to and from home, 50 min each trip from work then back home).

I don't know what else to say. There is a logical build sequence. Sure, I may be slower than a production carpenter, and sure, everything in a photograph is relative as far as quality goes (I'm no master craftsman).

Whatever. I'll get to talk to sis tomorrow and see what her deal is. Even though the vision is of this camper finished (95/ct) sitting on the bank of Poet Creek, I'd rather the camper at least come out how I envision, even if the trip does not. There's enough hard work left to do that it just doesn't make sense to me to make it harder to get the end result that I am looking for by cutting corners now. She'll have enough little warts as it is, she doesn't need any of the big ones... not if I can help it.

Nothing wrong with other strategies or goals. This is the approach I am taking on this project and it doesn't make sense to me to change now. $.02

Peace.

Kc, if you plan on doing the outside canvas before you put the walls up (not sure of I heard that right), what do you think about putting your walls back in the vacuum bag? That would insure the glue will impregnate the canvas. Same technique as fiberglassing.