FoamStream...

[GPW]

Well Duh !!! What about the trim ring ???... Had to go in and cut some more away...the trim ring serving as the final template ... leaving a slightly loose fit , which is perfect because we’ll still canvas inside the hole ...

Ps. We do plan on using some type of caulk around those windows , not trusting just the rubber gasket ... Could just foam (GS) the whole trim ring in place for the final assembly ... don’t plan on ever removing it ... no leaks ...

[GPW]

Beginning covering of the inside of the door ... T2 slightly thinned ...

[GPW]

Here’s the edge trimmed and glued down , and the finished inside ... save the window cutout ... You can see where I used a bit of painters tape to keep the edges butted up solid till the glue sets ... For the next few minutes we’ll be going around checking the smoothing till we’re sure the canvas won’t move .... Don’t want any wrinkles now eh !!!

Sorry for all the boring pics , was just thinking if someone’s never done this covering business before , it may (or may not ) help ...

[GPW]

Window cuts made , trimmed and glued down ... Now it’s LUNCHTIME !!! ... and a well deserved nap ...

[KCStudly]

Nice.

[tac422]

GPW,
Looking Good !
I appreciate the pictures as i should be doing mine very soon.
Did you size the canvas ? It looks stiff in the picture ?
Why did you thin the T2 ?

[GPW]

KC, Thanks !!! That means a Lot !!!

Tac, canvas is right off the roll .. the reason it looks so stiff is cause’ it is !!! Thick stuff... Not like working with thin canvas at all which you can stretch and pull ... this stuff you just lay it down and smooth it out ... that’s it ...
Thinned the T2 with just a little water to make it more brush-able ... One thing we found , only put the glue on the foam and apply the canvas dry ... it soaks up the water (solvent) in the T2 and grabs and dries quicker ...

Outside skin going on ...

[GPW]

Did the corners a little differently this time using a fold we use on Artist canvas all the time ... This will seal off (encapsulate) the butt join of the underlying layer ... a single staple holds it down ...

Nothing like old sweaty Gorilla hands eh ...

[GPW]

Just added a little glue around the exposed edges to harden them up and when dry , they’ll be trimmed flush and ironed down ... Set the door under the fan to help dry ... Tomorrow we’ll cut out the other window side and add the final trim strip inside there... That should about do it for the door covering , aside from trimming for the locks , and a paint job ... and yes .... adding a kick plate (KC) ...

You know , the door is actually the trickiest part of the covering job ... It’s the one thing everybody is going to see... Covering the walls should be relaxing after this ...


Well that’s about enough for one day ... Time for another shower and a Cold One ... or two ... or ?

[wagondude]

That is one beerworthy door! The paper really gave a nice smooth surface.

[kudzu]

The paper really gave a nice smooth surface.

Curious. Was it really the paper or was it mainly the thick canvas that gave such a smooth surface?

[dodgedartgt]

That is one beerworthy door!

I was pretty sure it is a two or three beerworthy door.

Mike in FL

[KCStudly]

I wondered at first why you hadn't "pre-canvased" the edges, but now I see it was all part of the master plan of double overlapping one side to the other.

Cagey.

[GPW]

KC, It just seemed like the best way at the time ... Originally was thinking about a door edging (Al) but I don’t think it will be necessary ... especially just two Old people , no kids to “abuse" anything ..

The door looks good this morning , everything dried nicely , no lifting , so we’ll get out the iron and start on the edges (as soon as it get’s light enough to see) ... Fitted the trim ring (just to check the fit) and that’s a nice tight fit .. so it’s all good ... so far ...
I got a 36” Al piano hinge from Frank the Bear ... the idea was to cut it in half and have two 18” hinges on the door ... that should work huh? ... Actually I got Two hinges (36”) and the other one will replace the corroded steel piano hinge on the Foamie #1 ... the only thing that’s suffered over time ... and that PINK HF frame ... grrrr!!!
Got a question ... should we use SS or brass screws with the Al hinge ??? ... dissimilar metals and all ...

Forecast for today ... No rain ...

I think the smooth door finish is a combination of the kraft paper and the extremely thick canvas... and vacuuming the bits off before covering ... That canvas is possibly the heaviest canvas we’ve ever used , except maybe Fire Hose ... 18oz. #8 ... Thick stuff ... It should make a really long lasting and Sturdy skin .. unaffected by the occasional idiots who like to poke on the foam .. Really, my test Foamie (#1) used a very Thin linen canvas , and has survived all this time in remarkably good shape ... with ZERO maintenance ...

We still have the window skin cutout to do , today , with the side cuts overlapping the exposed areas left by the other side ...
There is still that door center brace which is visible slightly through the canvas , but think we’ll just put a nice trim molding over that ... just a decoration really , serving no other purpose than hiding that center brace ...

[KCStudly]

Bimetallic Corrosion Check out Para. 3.1 and Table 2 on pg 6. Basically, the further apart on this chart, the more likely you are to have galvanic corrosion; so SS screws on Alum are better than brass.

Unless you have soaking wet and salt, it really won't likely be much of an issue for a long time.

If you want to hedge your bet you can passivate the SS: degrease well by washing with soap and water then rinsing really well, or soak in a thin solvent (such as IPA ...isopropyl alcohol) that will evaporate readily (don't touch with bare hands after this, it will only get oil on them); soak in a 10/ct solution of citric acid for at least 1/2 hr (150 deg F is best); rinse really well then allow to sit dry undisturbed for 72 hrs. This establishes a fresh uninterrupted corrosion layer (similar to the concept of anodizing aluminum) so that the SS is much less reactive on its surface.

Or don't bother (I wouldn't).

Really, by the time you bed the fasteners in (paintable/removable) sealant water intrusion should be at bay and corrosion is probably much less of a concern.