Military patents polystyrene and bedliner packaging

Canvas covered foamies (Thrifty Alternatives...)

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Postby Shadow Catcher » Tue Oct 04, 2011 5:01 pm

I have down loaded the PDF for future reference. The possibilities of "sculpting" a trailer are very interesting. Could make for some very interesting creations. This also makes the "build it like an airplane" really possible inexpensively.
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Postby CARS » Tue Oct 04, 2011 6:50 pm

Shadow Catcher wrote:The possibilities of "sculpting" a trailer are very interesting. Could make for some very interesting creations. This also makes the "build it like an airplane" really possible inexpensively.


That is what needs to be tested. The heat from curing the bedliner may just melt away the foam. TB doesn't cure, Killz doesn't cure. They dry. This is similar to painting bead board with an aerosol can! It may eat away at the attachment point.
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Postby Kharn » Tue Oct 04, 2011 7:15 pm

The patent states the different types of foam that were tested, polystyrene, polypropylene, polyethylene were all successfully used with polyurea (aka, high-end bedliner, usually comes as a two-part mix and sprayed with a heated gun). I'm not sure why the public affairs story states polyurethane, but I haven't read the patent in-depth beyond noting that it only covers spray, not roll-on, application. The question would be how would the lack of heat from the gun affect the reaction between the two parts of the mixture.

If they claim it was successfully done, I would not be worried about it melting the foam but as always, test before you drop a lot of money on it.
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Postby Moho » Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:05 pm

I have a buddy who owns a body shop and is a line-x dealer. I'll give him a call tomorrow and see if I can get him to spray a test box, since I plan on my next build being a foamie once I get the woody done. I have an extra sheet of polystyrene. Since I have never done this, nor researched it yet. Whats the best (or most common) way to make the box joints for testing this? But joints, dado, etc? The sheet I have is 3/4" so maybe double it up for 1.5" thickness?

Line-X Info:
Unlike other spray-on or drop-in bedliners, a LINE-X® treatment is professionally applied at high pressure and high temperatures, bonding instantly and permanently to your truck.

Made from a two-part polyurethane elastomer system, LINE-X uses equal parts of an "A" component, or hardener, and a "B" component, or resin. Using special equipment, the two liquids are combined right outside the tip of the spray gun. When the two parts are combined properly, the result is a polyurethane elastomer with tough, durable, protective properties.

The LINE-X dries in just 3 to 5 seconds, preventing runs or pooling that can occur with a cold, low pressure spray-on product.
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Postby CARS » Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:18 pm

Line X is not a DIY application for sure. I think it is the high end of bedliners.

The stuff I spray is tougher than paint, but not as tough as the high temp applications. In the middle if you will.

It's not really that much more than what I do. I charge $400.00 for a tinted (color matched to your vehicle) bed liner. I think Line X is around $600.00 for the same truck box??
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Postby Moho » Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:19 pm

After I posted, i realized you're wondering about the diy kits? Would having my buddy professionally do this help in any way? Yeah no clue on the cost, just know he does it
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Postby swampjeep » Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:38 pm

Moho wrote:After I posted, i realized you're wondering about the diy kits? Would having my buddy professionally do this help in any way? Yeah no clue on the cost, just know he does it


I think it would still help. There are some people who might build their foamy for the light factor, and the cost might not be problem, or for the easy, it might just be worth the extra money. For me, like you, I have a friend with the spray equipment, so the material cost and some beer is al it would be.

As for doubling your 3/4 for the test piece I wouldnt' bother, it might actually tell more to leave it 3/4 thick to see if it causes any deformation. If it doesn't deform the 3/4 it definately won't deform 1.5 or 2"

and again, for a test box, I don't think the method of assembly will matter. Most tests show with good glue, the foam is weaker then the foam, so how you assemble the pieces won't make a different.

anyone- feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on any of this.
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Postby Kharn » Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:46 pm

moho:
Line-X does both polyurea and polyurethane, I'd ask your friend to spray one sample with each. Polyurea is significantly more expensive than polyurethane with different performance results; hybrid mixes are available from some dealers.
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Postby CARS » Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:54 pm

Moho wrote:After I posted, i realized you're wondering about the diy kits? Would having my buddy professionally do this help in any way? Yeah no clue on the cost, just know he does it


Please let him if he would. Any data is good.

Next time I have a bedliner job I am going to shoot a couple chunks of foam with the DIY liner too.

Now the big question.
Are we adding a covering? Bedsheets with TB2 then coat with bedliner? Or are we just spraying bedliner on insulation?

Isn't the strength in the canvas covering?? I was just going to use the bedliner as a water proofing. A slightly flexable water proofing.
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Postby GPW » Wed Oct 05, 2011 5:52 am

Cars .... covering first ??? Hmmmm???? :thinking:

This could be tested on one of those cheap foam ice chests ($2) , If it worked it would be a Handy accessory ... Good abuse and leak test too ...
There’s no place like Foam !
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Postby squatch » Wed Oct 05, 2011 12:18 pm

I have used several types of DIY bedlner materials.

Duplicolor= Don't bother. Really more like thickened paint and flakes off even with good prep. I have a jb ahead of me removing it off the rockkers and bumpers of my truck so I can redo with a better product.

Herculiner=Tough stuff! It does fade over time. I restored my M416 military trailer 10 year ago. I used 2 coats of Herculiner on the bare sandblasted metal inside the bed. I has held up well to constant outside exposure and pitch fork unloading of the trailer. I think the solvents in it will eat foam though.
http://www.herculiner.com/

Tuff Coat marine=Pretty much like Herculiner but water based. Used on offshore drill rigs, ship decks, wave pools. I covered my aluminum Bassboat with this product above the water line several years ago. It has held up great. Resists fading and is easy to work with.
http://www.tuffcoat.net/utmindex.htm

Here is a pic of my coated front deck. Like Heculiner this stuff has ground up car tire(rubber crumb) in it for traction.
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It's sold at Cabela's and BPS in colors.

All of these products are applied with a funky type of roller.

I've often wondered if you could wet out fiberglass cloth with this stuff. making rubber impregnated fibberglass.

HTH
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Postby GPW » Thu Oct 06, 2011 5:42 am

If it sticks to truck beds it oughta’ stick to fiberglass , or foam for that matter ...
Not thinking this is a Military Secret , maybe we can get some info from the source ??? ... or maybe just check You Tube .... they seem to have everything there .... :lol:
There’s no place like Foam !
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Postby DrCrash » Fri Oct 07, 2011 8:17 am

line - x dries hard and is non flexable.

I used rhino on mine. love it but a little pricy.

Ive used Herculiner but it is loaded with Xylene and MEK.

This might be the stuff your looking for and it comes in non textured.
I am planning to coat my new trailer in it.
http://www.grizzlygrip.com/
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Postby GPW » Fri Oct 07, 2011 8:38 am

Seems the water based products would be more compatible with Foam ....
There’s no place like Foam !
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Postby CARS » Fri Oct 07, 2011 9:21 am

GPW wrote:If it sticks to truck beds it oughta’ stick to fiberglass , or foam for that matter ...
Not thinking this is a Military Secret , maybe we can get some info from the source ??? ... or maybe just check You Tube .... they seem to have everything there .... :lol:



It sticks because of the prep. I sand the truck bed for adhesion.
I have no idea what steps you would take to get it to adhere to foam. Remember all the samples that were done by Mike and others??
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