Waterproof, easy clean interior?

[KCStudly]

For the floor, even tho FRP has a pebble texture on the finish side, I would think that it would be very slick when wet; dangerous for you and your dogs. However, you could install the floor with the smooth side (backside) up and then apply some of that grit textured self adhesive safety tape, or even scuff it and paint it with a grit additive.

I would use 1x1x1/8 aluminum angle to trim the corners and 1x1/8 flat bar for any flat seams, with plenty of paint grade sealer/caulk underneath.

I can't recall having used the score and break method on it, but I can give it a try on a scrap at work on Tuesday. The stuff is very tough, and will break or tear along an irregular line if forced.

[milliejohn]

stainless steel, floor, walls, ceiling, you can even steam clean it, if you want clean and easy, how about two different trailers? one for clean, the other for easy.

[GPW]

Apologies ,but all that sounds too complicated for a Foamie ... Another type of trailer might be better suited ...

[kudzu]

GPW, no apologies needed. Was originally looking at converting a cargo trailer. Problem was that the trailers start out heavier than I want. The foamie is to be a ultra light weight, cargo trailer we can camp in. It will be less complicated for me in the long wrong if it's easier to clean out at the end of the trip. My trade off for the light weight is the need to reinforce the lower wall area by skinning that area with something tougher than canvas. It's really not that complicated, is it?

[GPW]

Just a crazy idea ... how about a big galvanized sheet metal “Pan” that fits inside , for the “dirty bits’ ...? Should be fairly light ... not hard to fab... slide it out when you don’t need it ... Sorta’ extreme, but easily hosed out/cleaned ...

Yeah , I looked at Cargo trailers , even bought a small one ... HEAVY! ... and Expensive for what you get , and still have to do to adapt them ... more weight ... grrrr!!!!

You could just fiberglass everything , floor and all up to a certain height ...just another “pan” ... Wash it out , like a boat ... you won’t hurt the foam ... especially if it’s skinned and painted (inside and out) ... Not that complicated at all .. Use a rubberized deck finish for a non slip floor ...

[Wobbly Wheels]

It sounds like epoxy floor paint is exactly what you're looking for. It goes on thick and you can apply it right over ply. I've used it for conversions of shipping containers and, once it's allowed to cure, it's rock hard and easy to clean. A bit of silica sprinkled onto the floor while wet will give you a non slip floor. And use a half mask respirator: the stuff is much nastier than laminating resin until it cures. There are also garage floor epoxy kits meant to be applied by homeowners. The stuff I used was an industrial (not marine) product made by Interlux, I don't recall the name. There are also water based formulations like Aquapoxy.
Of course, boats have used gelcoat on decks for a very long time: easy to apply, not as watertight as epoxy but plenty for this application, cheaper than epoxy and quicker to cure.

As far as the FRP goes, it cuts most easily (IME) with an angle grinder and a thin metal cutting disc. As for the itchiness, the trick to set up your work so that you can have a shower after all your cutting is done. Start with the water as cold as you can stand it: your pores will close up and the dust will rinse right off. After a quick rinse, you can add hot to stop the shivering...you'll still need a decent paper mask and a pair of glasses for the dust.
When I'm doing a lot of cutting, I actually wear swim goggles: they seal tight and I can't inadvertently rub my eyes...even if I do look like a raccoon when I'm done

There's also a latex marine nonskid deck paint called KiwiGrip that I've used. It's a bit pricey to buy retail, but it will definitely do what you want. Even though it's latex, you still need to stay off it for a couple days or it'll stain. The non-skid texture is like the spackled ceiling finish that's like a whole bunch of tiny pointed peaks, except that they're rubbery. (I don't recall what that finish is called).

[kudzu]

The slipperiness of some surfaces is a real concern when it comes time to pull the mats out & swab the deck. So I think to myself, "That KiwiGrip looks like the ticket. Wonder how much 'a bit pricey' really is." Oy vey!! I'd have to order it online since the closest dealer is 300+ miles away. And then it's $150 per gallon. That is soooo not the ticket. A quick search of epoxy floor paint isn't showing it too cheap either. Of course, FRP on walls & something else on the floor plus mats wouldn't be cheap. And it looks like I'd need to use multiple methods at once so there is no cheap way to accomplish what I want. Plus we end up complicated & break the foamie code. Maybe FRP on walls, vinyl on the floor, with all seams well sealed/caulked, all wood underneath very well sealed, plus extra care & maybe a little prayer or laying on of hands...

Actually, doing the galvanized pan idea has a lot of merit also. I'm not at all against it. Though I'd have to be really careful working with it. Have cut myself a few times on that stuff, one nearly removing the tip of my finger but a horse was aiding and abetting in that incidence. Didn't even notice an edge of sharp metal was sticking out off the barn door. I was holding the horse's halter when he pulled his head up. Probably better I found out with my finger rather than the horse's eye which was also quite close. I digress. I actually like the idea and I think I can paint it to a satisfactory color.

Thanks for the many ideas. Time to do some research, pondering & prioritizing. I've got time as I wait to find a dirt cheap trailer or win the lottery, whichever come first.

[GPW]

Sheet metal .... Rolled edges ...

[KCStudly]

Plus we end up complicated & break the foamie code.

Code? What Code? We don't need no stinking code.

Lots of people are attracted to the foamie method due to the "potential" for it to be thrifty, and that was the genesis for the "modern foamie movement" (Hail to the godfather! ).

However, as with all aspects of TNTTT, the information is here for each of us to pick and chose what will work for us and what will not, regardless of our reasoning. We are a community intended to help each other, not ostracize each other.

Just my thoughts; nothing hard core.

My message is: there is no peer pressure, and you do not have to conform. Build what you want within your own means, and remember, "The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials" - Big Mike.

[mikeschn]

What do you guys think about these materials?



Mike...

[kudzu]

What do you guys think about these materials?

Ooooooo, that makes my house perfectly.

[KCStudly]

I think the "Rat Rod" fad is great. But don't be fooled, in my estimation there are two versions of the rat rod school of design:
1) Sound under pinnings with a rough and tumble outward appearance (like your example pic with its weathered ramshackle appearance, but IIRC a very solid construction), and...
2) A hodge podge of marginally acceptable parts that are slapped together to form an outlandish presentation with minimal awareness of engineering norms and/or safety (definitely NOT the example you showed... the edge of the galvanized corrugated sheet being a possible exception re: safety).

[kudzu]

Don't worry, KC, painted canvas is really much more my style. However, we're in the process of stripping & repainting our wrap around porch. The house is currently not looking too good. We've got a serious rat rod look right now.

And don't worry about peer pressure either. I'm not easily pushed in a direction I wasn't already leaning towards. All the work on the porch though is reminding me that these projects take a toll on my body now. Like so many, I've got back issues. Nearly everything about building a foamie is going to hurt & it will mount up. That's OK. Beats doing nothing. But the less extra stuff I add to the building the better off I'll be. I do want to protect the walls though. And I do want to minimize my problems cleaning it out. Sounds like lots of possibilities. Just need to find the most cost effective & least painful way, not just in the building but the long term use as well.

It'll all work out so how. Always does.

[Bogo]

HDPE panels. It can be bent if thin so a continuous piece that covers the floor and lower wall should be possible. You can take a 1/4" panel, route a 1/8" deep V grove in it, then bend it at the V grove.

This place sells it, but you should be able to get it at many plastic suppliers.
http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/prod1;ft_polymax_sheets;pg106835.html

Marine grade plywood for floor and wall. Fiberglass tape the interior seams and floor to wall joints. Then use fiberglass resin to seal the inside surface of the plywood. Lastly use a heavy duty vinyl floor tile for the wear surface.

[GPW]

Talked with a guy that owns a sheet metal shop around the corner from Vinnie’s ... described the “pan “to him and purpose ...he said that was no problem to make ... Just checking on the feasibility...