A (sort of) foamie project I am considering

[GPW]

Thel, it’s a friendly group out for Fun and “the Greater Good", Help will be gladly provided just by asking ...

[Thelgord]

So thinned at 4:1, 1 Gal of glue with 4 Gal of water? That seems like a lot. I like the idea of a drip edge and it makes sense.

I figure if I can build this truck topper as a smaller project, I can use it a lessons learned for when I start the TD.

[greygoos]

If I recall correctly the first build I saw on here using foam was a truck topper. I believe it was built long before "Foamies". Do a search for truck campers. It might come up and maybe give you some ideas. I will look for it and if I come across the posting I will post the link.

[greygoos]

I found it. viewtopic.php?f=55&t=53933. It might give you some ideas. Apparently it was built in the 80's

[Thelgord]

Thanks I was reading through a giant thread (almost 500 pages) before you posted that

[KCStudly]

I think the issues with putting TB2 on top of the canvas came from doing it while the under glue coat (the one holding the canvas down) was still wet.

[GPW]

QUOTE: “ So thinned at 4:1, 1 Gal of glue with 4 Gal of water? ‘.... Uh , NO!!! That would be 1 gallon of TB2 to 3 gal. of water... 25% TB2 75% water = 3:1 ratio
And remember ,once all the water evaporates away , the only thing left is the Glue ... Pretty much the same principle as the Mix ...

[Don L.]

Dumb question of the day- when is this thinned coat of titebond used? I'm thinking it goes on after the canvas has been glued to the foam with full strength TB2, and dried well of course.

[Thelgord]

Not a dumb question at all. As a complete newb I would also like to know.

[GPW]

“ it goes on after the canvas has been glued to the foam with full strength TB2, and dried well of course. “ ... Yes !!! Exactly ..... Before the Primer goes on ... then the paint ...

[rowerwet]

Row , not to disagree, but we’re fully supportive of a thinned TB2 “Sizing”coat ... ^ #4 as above . The idea , not a “bond" , but saturating the individual fabric fibers thoroughly with glue , completely eliminating the individual fibers from being contaminated by air or holding moisture under the paint ...( Poor mans waterproofing ) Once each fiber has
been saturated with the sizing mix (Thinned 25% glue -75% Water) and dry , the primer and paint can be applied with assurance of the entire surface being solid and impermeable ... Water being so intrusive as we know it is will affect any untreated canvas fibers even under layers of paint ( ask how we found that out ) ... Water WILL find a way in and rot the canvas eventually, should there be un sized fibers left !!! True !!! ... We noticed this the most as the canvas wrapped under the floor and is glued ...unsized canvas fibers absorb water and rot eventually .... another reason we now Highly recommend building a”drip edge” or "skirt" onto to the bottom of the trailer... eliminating many problems when water collects on the underside of the floor...

Note; We’ve done this “sizing” for many many years now with our Oil paintings (ART) ,before the GESSO (primer) and that step assures any of the 'bad’ ingredients in the oil paint will not rot the canvas later on ( hundreds of years later on ) ... it’s a canvas which is exposed to air on one size , increasing possibility of damage .... So logically , on a trailer protected , properly prepared fabric should last a Long time ...

This is just more of the things we’re learning the hard way ... hoping others may benefit from our humbling experiences ...

And now with all this new learning , it might be time to start designing an entirely New Foamie trailer for everyone ... The New, Generation 2 , taking full advantage of what we’ve All learned ... and new materials available now ... ...that and it’s too COLD to build , so we can do some armchair trailer building ... Another project to add to the list ...

I use the paint to seal and fill the fabric, for one thing it is much cheaper, the other being that paint doesn't stick to TBII worth anything.
From my experience, the trick is to ensure that the fabric is full of paint. To do this paint a run coat onto the canvas, come back in 15 minutes, paint another run coat on. Repeat until you return after 15 min and the surface is still glossy with wet paint.
Until it reaches saturation, the surface will be dull, as the coarse canvas surface will be showing through.
This is the way my tears are sealed, when I peeled the fabric off the bottom of my first tear to modify the floor, the paint was all the way through the fabric. It pulled wood off with it.

[Don L.]

Row, you are not using a primer? Any mold issues?

[GPW]

Sadly , just paint didn’t completely penetrate my 18 oz. canvas and we had some undersides with little or no paint completely through , and guess what that caused ... Agreed , I may live in a “worst case scenario” climate but it has just made me use the old school precautions .. Viz. “sizing” ( you can look it up...Google )
The highly thinned TB2 “sizing” is more paint friendly than a TB2 “film” ... Almost any film surface requires a sanding first to add "tooth “ for adhesion ... Paint is my “bag” ...

[Don L.]

When I was a carpenter we used to say "'paint and putty, they're my buddy".

[rowerwet]

Row, you are not using a primer? Any mold issues?

Nope, no mold, I see primer as a product to soak into wood, saving your expensive tinted paint for the final coloring.
I use oops paint in whatever Color I get it to fill the fabric, then finish with the color I want on top.
With all of my projects, this has been fine. A plywood teardrop that lives outside uncovered, an attic hatch that faces south, and the church steeple of the church I am caretaker/pastor of.
The foam boats are skinned with bed sheets, they get just one coat of paint in the color I want.