Things learned, costs and various aspect considerations unique to this 7x14 build.
4x8 teardrop is efficient and ideal construction for 2x4x8 sheet sized foam. Going bigger requires more reinforcement, complexity and 2-4x more time, material and thus cost due to size, spans involved. Who knew? Now you do! Lol
Glue 4x8 panel assembly
In my case, 4 inch foam required 2x more bonding glue than 2 inch foam. And another 2x glue due to extra joint reinforcement for larger size. Countersunk boards at every wall joint and corners to increase wall and corner strength. Adding extra reinforcement ribs and spars reqd another 2x glue so approx 4-6x more bonding glue required overall.
Basically, used a 30oz tube of PL3x for every 7 ft joint. Calculated roughly 40 glue joints @$8 = $320. Couldn't believe initially how fast that i went through glue but with afterthought makes sense. Ignorance is bliss and i was naive.
. Fwiw from this and previous experience, not impressed with liquid nails exterior and would only use for something that i might have to disassemble. PL3 however, i would recommend for anything permanent.
Fabric
Thicker Fabric, more glue n paint required. I used hf drop cloth, don't know weight or how it compares to typical duck cloth ordered by others, but it's heavy. Using TB3 required less dilution (20% used) thus more needed. Wanted the improved water proof over TB2 and found out afterward that TB3 was much more viscous and seemed much too thin when reduced to 50%. Not certain at this stage that it is really necessary or better. Have no real test to confirm this other than a basic done initially which wasn't impressive in any regard, both dilute and full strength.
The fabric to foam bonding and exterior skin puncture resistance are 2 areas that are marginal imho, from my unique experience and build method. IIRC, used about 10 gals of TB3 for approx 400ft2 or $250. I only glued the inner bonding side since i had so much cheap paint for the fabric exterior.
Fabric to foam bonding
Found this marginal at best. Even full strength. Steps that I took to improve as much as possible included using full strength TB3 around the perimeter of each wall approx 8-12 inches figuring that the edge adhesion was the most important and would prevent lifting that would start from the edges. Also wrapped and stapled the fabric strategically where i could to the front wall at the sides and to the bottom of the walls at the floor. Had no confidence in the ability of the TB glue in itself for this critical aspect without mechanical attachment.
With the much larger surface area size involved, the forces and stresses on the skin are much greater for a bigger unit. Bigger sail basically giving greater lift from air flow. Ideal for an airplane or sailboat, not the canvas on a PMF foamie. Now if i could figure out how to reduce drag and get aerodynamic lift, without resistance, from PMF to increase mpg....
Puncture resistance is minimal compared to a hard side. Fine for my application as it's mostly wide open travel. Not ideal where lots of branches, rocks or other impact potential areas.
At this stage, question the PMF method time/cost/value over just laying a coat of paint/roof silicone directly over foam. Possibly just reinforcing seams with glued/stapled fiberglass joint tape, IF at all necessary? Especially for a 4x8 teardrop. Or just notching/ dovetailing joints? Interesting debate topic?
My personal assessment of the sock strength theory is that it's marginal in my application. Can't speak for others of course. Imho, frame and joint bonding account for most if not all of the strength. I really don't see from my tests and construction by lifting fabric off foam that the sock theory accounts for much of the retention strength of the entire structure. It may impart some retention keeping the roof/ wall seams from splitting apart but can't see this as more than minor imho. Purely conjecture on my part. Test with a covered and uncovered box would be one way to quantitatively assess this.
I would think that reinforcing the corner with right angle roof/drywall channel glued in place could be sufficient and, where else needed, could give same strength without pmf time and trouble. Worth a try to find out. If insufficient, than pmf as normal.
I built some wheel arches with 3/8 plywood that I then entirely covered using multiple coats TB2 full strength on all sides and left over cloth. The ridgity didn't appear much improved imho as it still greatly flexed. The glued skin has to add some strength but not what i would call ridgid strong. Imho. Once again, without test data specifics, vague generalities and just my impression.
Framing
This was the biggest stress of the build. Would my design have sufficient strength reinforcement to maintain structural ridgity for the application? . 1x4 glued to each vertical wall joint 4 ft spaced. 1x4-1x2 t-truss spans for the roof. Extra horizontal reinforcement across the back wall. All based upon 1.5 inch plywood floor over 4x4 cross ribs on chassis frame and 3/4 plywood front wall. I had figured that I would start with this level of framing and could always add more later if needed.
Sounds good in theory but best to start off strong cause if you have a problem later, it will be at the worst moment, could be dangerous and probably not so easily repaired realistically.
Another stress was mounting the heavy solar panels to a foam roof. My 1x5 inset cedar boards were heavily glued but no guarantee wouldn't delaminate at the foam if the stresses exceed with force- impact and or air lift at speed. So far so good.
I call my rig an oversized backpack beer cooler.
Happy that i built it and satisfied with the results. It has performed well enough for its intended task so far maintaining comfortable inner temperatures as much as possible (10-30 degree improvement) and stayed dry. It has been subjected to wind, rain and hail with no issues so far. But of course it's resistance is much less than a hard side would give. It's between a tent and a hard sided trailer. I monitor weather and wind as this is it's major weakness.
While strong enough for the majority of the weather that I am located in, would not build this if I lived in tornado alley, hail or snow central. That would require a stronger frame and a more rigid or resistant cover skin imho. It is still possible, should i decide, to add a stronger exterior skin which is why i went PMF. And possibly could have taken the approx $4-500 overall cost of PMF and applied that to another covering could be debated.
That is something for everyone to consider for their own build, preference and situation. This has suited my situation and budget. Built with the EG&G method - Economically Get er done, Good enough. Cost to build is in the $1500-2000 which isn't as cheap as i had hoped but that was unrealistic. Hard to budget accurately when you have no clue. Lol.
This post was intended to share and help others learn from my experience. Good luck to you all.

Make it so.