Thrifty Alternatives ..Building Foam Campers

Canvas covered foamies (Thrifty Alternatives...)

Moderator: eaglesdare

Postby GPW » Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:51 pm

Eagle , how does it feel to be a Legend ??? First Foamie , Hi-miler ... Sure Glad you had a Good time .... where's the pics ?? :o :lol:


2 more days of school .... and then the Fun begins... :roll: :lol: :o
There’s no place like Foam !
User avatar
GPW
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 14912
Images: 546
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:58 pm
Location: New Orleans

Postby Postal_Dave » Sun Jun 12, 2011 11:36 pm

Help me guys!!

I'm insulating the walls of my camper before I attach them to the camper frame.
I made the wall frames and then put the outer wall, ply-wood panel to the frame with Titebond II and screws. The wall frames are 1 and a half inch deep. So I put in a half inch layer of "R-Max" R-matte plus-3. The silver side is glued to the ply-wood panel with Titebond II, the white paper side is away from the panel. Then I put down some TB II and an inch thick piece of Lowe's brand green insulation board to the R-Max.

I left the frames laying on the floor for 24 hours and then stood them up. White liquid is running out of the frame now. :x
The 1 inch thick green insulation didn't stick to the R-Max and the TB II that remained on the insulation is still wet and is white in color.

I don't know what has happened but something isn't right. The foam of the R-Max seems OK, I'm at a loss. I did a test of the material before I started by gluing some test pieces and they worked fine. I'm guessing that because it didn't get much air from being inside the frame, that this happened.

I'm looking for advise and suggestions from you foam building experts.

One more thing. I just checked the MSDS sheets for the both insulation boards and the titebond. The boards say that they will react with a strong oxidizer but that's it.

Thanks guys.
Dave
Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
User avatar
Postal_Dave
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 168
Images: 73
Joined: Thu Jul 08, 2010 11:59 am
Location: Upstate South Carolina

Postby GPW » Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:59 am

PD, from your description , sounds like there's no way for the solvent (water) in the T2 glue to evaporate... Foam to something porous works with T2 , while foam to foam works better with something that doesn't require air contact .. Gorilla glue works well for foam to foam ... That or a foam safe contact cement ... or just let it sit for a couple months , it will dry .... eventually ... :roll:
There’s no place like Foam !
User avatar
GPW
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 14912
Images: 546
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:58 pm
Location: New Orleans
Top

Postby eaglesdare » Mon Jun 13, 2011 6:49 am

Wobbly Wheels wrote:Sounds like a good trip, despite the rain.
That's good to hear your thoughts about the shell, given that you're the resident "high-miler". Gives me a bit more confidence on scaling the size up a bit.


i had forgotten who was concerned about the off road issue. but it is you right? yes, if built the way i did mine, (of course you can always add more reinforcement), but if built properly i don't see any problems with the shell. i think the frame/tongue will go before the shell. or even the hitch pulling off before the shell collaspses.

also i don't see anyone driving as fast off road as i was on road. that is another thing to consider. off road i would think you'd take it a bit more slowly. i was, believe it or not, doing between 60 and 70 on those horrible roads. had to, had to keep up with the traffic.

i have driven the roads many many times in my days and just never gave them a thought, til i towed the foamie. i felt every nook and cranny, bump and pothole there was. i also must have hit everyone of them also.

my only opionion to give out to folks would be never skimp on the glue. use it! and cover well with the canvas. i know gpw diluted his, and did not do the outer covering in it. so do what you feel is right for you. but i would cover that sucker with glue! :lol:
Louella
May the foam be with you.
User avatar
eaglesdare
Donating Member
 
Posts: 3168
Images: 13
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:06 pm
Top

Postby GPW » Mon Jun 13, 2011 8:10 am

Upon that suggestion , I'll call my broker and buy more titebond stock ... :thumbsup: :lol:

Got a few pics of the trailer prep , shortened and all the nasty stuff removed ... Image

Image

First thing was to wire brush the flux off the welds on the coupler , and then a bit of Rustoleum primer over them ...
Trailer is nasty old Galvanized , wonder if it would hold paint .. the surface being so old ... ???
There’s no place like Foam !
User avatar
GPW
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 14912
Images: 546
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:58 pm
Location: New Orleans
Top

Postby Conedodger » Mon Jun 13, 2011 8:18 am

PD

TB2 is cross linked PVA glue so will only stick porous surfaces. Think of it as only setting or curing when the water has all gone. If it stays wet it will not set or cure.

I am taking it that R-max is not porous in the same way as foam so it will never dry.

In the case of the foam and cloth the water in the pva can get away through the cloth and sticks to the roughed up foam.

You need a non-solvent glue that bonds without air such as GG
Conedodger
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 129
Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 2:24 pm
Location: United Kingdom
Top

Postby Conedodger » Mon Jun 13, 2011 8:25 am

GPW wrote: Trailer is nasty old Galvanized , wonder if it would hold paint .. the surface being so old ... ???


You asking us about paint........ Huh :?

"Maybe the world has ended as we now it, what do you think Scotty, Spock and Zulu, Select warp drive Eagle"
Conedodger
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 129
Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 2:24 pm
Location: United Kingdom
Top

Postby Wobbly Wheels » Mon Jun 13, 2011 8:36 am

Eagles, that is indeed me who's going to want to pull his trailer through the seven rings of hell so my biggest concern is keeping it light enough it doesn't tear itself apart and stiff enough that the corners don't open up.

GPW, it's been a while since I painted over galvanizing, but I think the trick was to use the galvanizing primer as the transition coat then the paint. If you are adding any supports, I assume you know the gases from welding that stuff are particularly nasty ?

Dave, it sounds like contact cement would be just the ticket because you don't stick the pieces together till the solvent's evaporated. There is a latex formulation available that shouldn't eat the plastic. Automotive trim adhesive ought to work as well, though it'll probably take more than a few cans to do a camper.
User avatar
Wobbly Wheels
Donating Member
 
Posts: 1080
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2011 9:51 am
Top

Postby GPW » Mon Jun 13, 2011 8:40 am

Just never painted over OLD galvanized finish before ... Had no call too ... Thinking the old Vinegar/lemon juice trick might work .. ??? Just an acid mordant ... :thinking:
There’s no place like Foam !
User avatar
GPW
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 14912
Images: 546
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:58 pm
Location: New Orleans
Top

Postby squatch » Mon Jun 13, 2011 10:12 am

My opinion on old galvanized is that it looks great. It's not rusted so it looks great. Here in the rust belt anything that's not rusted looks great!
I've got 2 old galvanized boat trailers. They look a little chaulky but no rust suits me fine. Most of the primers for galvanized metal no longer exist in the consumer world. You might just get some spray on cold galvanizing compound in a can to refresh the look a little. Hit it with a scotch bright and some mineral spirits 1st. I know the big box stores sometimes sell paint for old chain link fences. That might work as well.
User avatar
squatch
Teardrop Advisor
 
Posts: 50
Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 12:44 pm
Location: Md
Top

Postby GPW » Mon Jun 13, 2011 11:49 am

SQ, Thanks ... may just clean it up ... That's EASY ... :D
There’s no place like Foam !
User avatar
GPW
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 14912
Images: 546
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:58 pm
Location: New Orleans
Top

Postby mikeschn » Mon Jun 13, 2011 3:46 pm

GPW,

Can you show me that perforating tool again. I might need something like that soon!

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
User avatar
mikeschn
Site Admin
 
Posts: 19202
Images: 479
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:01 am
Location: MI
Top

Postby GPW » Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:27 pm

OK, http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... ps-sellers

I think it's a good investment ... :thumbsup: probably the best way to assure maximum adhesion , without going to some exotic (and expensive) glue that actually melts into the foam chemically ...
There’s no place like Foam !
User avatar
GPW
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 14912
Images: 546
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:58 pm
Location: New Orleans
Top

Postby mikeschn » Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:30 pm

GPW wrote:OK, http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... ps-sellers

I think it's a good investment ... :thumbsup: probably the best way to assure maximum adhesion , without going to some exotic (and expensive) glue that actually melts into the foam chemically ...


Thanks G,

Got it ordered! Should be here in a few days!

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
User avatar
mikeschn
Site Admin
 
Posts: 19202
Images: 479
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:01 am
Location: MI
Top

Postby GPW » Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:43 pm

Thinking you'll see an immediate positive difference in adhesion ... :thumbsup:
There’s no place like Foam !
User avatar
GPW
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 14912
Images: 546
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:58 pm
Location: New Orleans
Top

PreviousNext

Return to Foamies

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests