Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Throughout my experience with all things rusty, dusty, dirty and nasty, I have found that a half face respirator from 3M (with rubber cup that seals around your mouth and nose, cartridges and adjustable head and neck strap that has a easy release clasp) are far superior to any disposable paper/gauze like thingy.

This may be due in part to the fact that I keep facial hair around my chin; it holds the disposables away and does not make a very good filter. However, I find that the rubber cup of the proper respirator seals much more positively (as confirmed when test fit by my work); the straps can be adjusted (unlike the disposables that always seem to be too tight, even though they don't seal well); they are much easier to put on and take off without tangling in your hair; and they don't fog up your glasses because the exhaust vent is directed downward (whereas the disposables leak and fog).

Do yourself a big favor and spring the extra money for the respirator. They last a long time and they work.

It does help, thank you.

KCStudly wrote:Throughout my experience with all things rusty, dusty, dirty and nasty, I have found that a half face respirators from 3M (with rubber cup that seals around your mouth and nose, cartridges and adjustable head and neck strap that has a easy release clasp) are far superior to any disposable paper/gauze like thingy.

This may be due in part to the fact that I keep facial hair around my chin; it holds the disposables away and does not make a very good filter. That's exactly why they don't work for you! However, I find that the rubber cup of the proper respirator seals much more positively (as confirmed when test fit by my work)I don't know how they test fit you but I'll bet it's a qualitative method (irritant smoke, banana scent under a hood) as opposed to the quantitative test using a machine With a beard you probably won't pass the tougher quantitative test... BTW, per OSHA regulations you're not supposed to wear a respirator at work if you have facial hair other than a moustache, you're company is supposed to tell you to shave or not allow you to wear a respirator; the straps can be adjusted (unlike the disposables that always seem to be too tight, even though they don't seal well); they are much easier to put on and take off without tangling in your hair; and they don't fog up your glasses because the exhaust vent is directed downward (whereas the disposables leak and fog).

Do yourself a big favor and spring the extra money for the respirator. They last a long time and they work.

One thing for sure, most people hate wearing them for any extended period of time due to the "overheating" issue

atahoekid, all true. I don't want to high jack this thread so I will add some info to a PM. I strongly recommend and support the proper use of all appropriate PPE.

That makes two of us

Being Old , I even wear a particle mask when sanding foam ... or most anything else ... The more Toxic the dust , the better the respirator/mask needed ... I used to do the murals on Kustom Vans many years ago ... Resorted to a positive pressure fresh air supply mask ( car paint is Nasty) ... Hot, sweaty , uncomfortable , another hose to drag around , But No breathing paint fumes problems ... Why breathe in anything you shouldn’t ?

GPW wrote:Being Old , I even wear a particle mask when sanding foam ... or most anything else ... The more Toxic the dust , the better the respirator/mask needed ... I used to do the murals on Kustom Vans many years ago ... Resorted to a positive pressure fresh air supply mask ( car paint is Nasty) ... Hot, sweaty , uncomfortable , another hose to drag around , But No breathing paint fumes problems ... Why breathe in anything you shouldn’t ?

Yeah, in my old days I used to paint good old lacquer (Imron) and never wore a mask or anything. I'd go home, blow my nose, and it'd be the color we painted that day. Ah, the abuses we endure in our youth are why we're so messed up now.

Really , not to mention all the other stuff we inhaled in the 60’s

the abrasive cutting wheel is definitely the only way that i found to cut bub without the fiberglass delaminating from bub. the walls are aircraft fiberglass cloth (light, thin, strong, and expensive) not the more common boat cloth (thicker, more open weave, less flexible).

as far as removing the front fairing, it towed very stably behind my VW without it, but it has a huge effect on the fuel economy and power required to tow.

on the lifting mechanism issue: the polycarbonate windows and wood frame weight about as much as the rest of the top, your probably right about the 80 lbs roof weight.
whenever i lifted the roof (with one of my parents helping) the problem was always in lifting the roof evenly. if someone lifts too fast, the cap wedges tight to the base, and no more lifting can happen.
i was able to lift the cap a few times by myself from the inside, but keeping it level while lifting was tough.

i'll have to watch this thread closer from now on.

Wow. A whole month gone. I've been mostly planning and measuring and such. This weekend will be the first one I will have some time to actually do something.
First steps will be to get the door trimmed and set up so I can make the templates for the new back wall arrangement.
2nd steps will be to strap down and then cut away the side walls on the outter shell. I am leaving a 11" overhang. BUB is really going to look like a box now. I am also planning on using the front cowling to make an attached tongue box (sort of anyhoo). Haven't got that clear in my head just yet, but I think it will work.
3rd steps will be to remove the top and take it to the basement and get it up on saw horses. I have some plans for mounting interior lighting and such. It will be easier to do if it's in the basement and upside down. At least that's the plan right now.

If I get through any of my overly optomistic list, I'll be sure to take and post them.

If all goes well, I will be able to build the framed lifting walls in place and once they do what I want them to do; I can add the roof back onto the assembly. First thing first though. I need to get the parts apart. I still haven't decided finally on what I will use as the lift system. I have decided to have additional manual supports for the roof, whether or not it is power lifted.

This is one of those times, I wish I was retired, so I could work more on this. Not being retired means less BUB time, but more funds for the project. That works too I guess.

being retired does have its draw backs financially.

QUOTE: “ being retired does have its draw backs financially. “ .... TRUE DAT !!! The reason we try do do as much Salvage/recycle as possible ...
Bonnie , the BUB was a Great find , but I can’t help but think you shouldn’t try to dress it up too much with fancy doors etc. Keep it Simple ...

Well, I am the poster child for plans that don't pan out.

I did get the outer shell marked and began cutting away the excess. It will take awhile, as I am being overly cautious. Boy, that protective gear gets hot fast! If I could figure a way to do it; I could give myself a steam facial while I work. I have almost one side of the outer shell cut through. I'll try and do a bit more each day until I have it done. Hopefully this week.

I am taking as I go, but with work right now. I am the only IT person right now and for at least a while yet. I'm either exhaused or working. What I really need is all that stamina I used up in my 20s and 30s.

I have also finalized the lift idea and bought the parts to make it. It will be out of 1/2" EMT and I hope to get the pieces put together this week, well most of them anyway. After thinking about it, I may need some more parts. Perhaps I should say, overthinking about it. I'm not buying anything else until I have what I planned and bought for built and tested. There will be pictures!

Enough for now. I need to get to work, but I'd rather be camping!

Bonnie , take your time , do it right !!! Curious to see what you’ve come up with for a Lift ? Have you provided for a manual lift alternative just in case you get to the campground and it won’t work ? A foamie pop up is sure a good idea , garage-able , compact , yet a standy' ...

GPW wrote:Bonnie , take your time , do it right !!! Curious to see what you’ve come up with for a Lift ? Have you provided for a manual lift alternative just in case you get to the campground and it won’t work ? A foamie pop up is sure a good idea , garage-able , compact , yet a standy' ...

I think what I've come up with will be able to work both manually and with 12v power. I've come up with an adpater idea that would let me use my floor jack as the lift in the manual mode. Hope to test that this weekend, but only if I get the rest of the lid cut away. That's first. Cutting is going well, just slow. I may, if I'm careful, be able to reuse some of the cut away parts of fiberglassed foam elsewhere in the build. Still trying to save for the expensive stuff -- resin and fiberglass. It will come together eventually.