BEULA - a foam Winter Warrior with aero front

[cpowell243]

Home from our travels and back to Beula. Next up is sealing the hinge with silicone, which leaked a small amount during our major snow storm last week, and attaching latches to the front near the hinge to create a tighter seal. Then it's all interior work - creating the headboard out of styrofoam - no small task given the curved front. Will also create a small enclosed storage area for books, etc. above the headboard. Then on to installing the bed pedestal and building/installing the galley. Finally, installing the floor. I know it will add weight, but am considering using standard 12"x12" vinyl floor tiles onto the plywood (?).

[GPW]

[OP827]

Cpowell, you did great with the build, congratulations, I am sure it was not an easy task to build that front area.
May I suggest some small improvements in the back door for your consideration?
I could be missing someting in my understanding of how your design works, but I think it could be quite doable. If you change the back door upper part to open to the outside it could be supported from swinging down in transport mode, and especially if you add a small header, could be just something like 2x2" wood strip above the door then the entire folding down wall with door panel would be stronger, by being held together. Just a thought. And I fully agree with what KC said.

[cpowell243]

OP,
I considered folding the upper walls down on the inside but had to go up since I wanted access to the galley from the outside when I swing the galley around to the back. I did not think about the idea of folding doors up and actually storing them outside of the main body. That might've worked but I think I'm OK with the current design. If they come loose from my home-grown brackets in transit they simply sit on the interior wall.
My problem now is that the gas springs are lifting my hinge up and creating a gap at the hinge point. I'm no trying to figure out a way to add a set of external latches to pull the hatch down to the main main body. Had to pull things apart to gain access so not a pretty picture. Need to add hard points to attach. The other problem I face if I can get these in place is how will the latch work in both the raised and closed position since the will sit at different angles. Other ideas? Frustrating since I want to get started with the interior but have to get this thing weather-tight.
Wish me luck.
Ch

result.jpg (56.41 KiB) Viewed 1692 times

[cpowell243]

Easier to see after rotated.

result.jpg (56.41 KiB) Viewed 1690 times

[cpowell243]

Not sure why that didn't work - hope you can see it with the rotated pic.

[KCStudly]

Did the leverage move your hinge spar? How was it anchored? I don't think latches will fix a structural problem with the hinge; you may have to go deeper.

[cpowell243]

KC,
Not sure what you are referring to with "hinge spar". I'm using a 3" W living hinge and there is enough give at the hinge point to allow the hatch to lift up in response to the upward pressure applied by the 60lb. spring. Hinge laid flat before I added the spring. Still works fine, just won't let the hinge down far enough to meet the main body.

[KCStudly]

So the hinge itself is too flexible? No bueno.

[GPW]

"Springs” that may work on a heavy wooden hatch may be too much for a light Foamie hatch ... Some things (commonly accepted practices ) don’t transfer well from wood to foam ... I believe the BASIC idea was to make a hatch LIGHT in weight so you wouldn’t need the “springs” ...

There is a method in this madness...

[RAYVILLIAN]

Good Morning Charlie
ouch. I'm not a fan of the living hinge in structural applications for the reason that you've run into they are to flexible. I think that you are going to have to go to a lighter lift. At 60 lbs lifts that is 120 lbs of lift straight up on the hatch.

I guesstamated that my hatch takes about 90 lbs to lift and I would think that yours should be lighter so 40 lb lifts should be plenty. Or you might try a couple of regular door hinges on top of the living hinge not pretty and I'm not sure if it would work but might.

Gary

[OP827]

OP,
I considered folding the upper walls down on the inside but had to go up since I wanted access to the galley from the outside when I swing the galley around to the back. I did not think about the idea of folding doors up and actually storing them outside of the main body. That might've worked but I think I'm OK with the current design. If they come loose from my home-grown brackets in transit they simply sit on the interior wall.
My problem now is that the gas springs are lifting my hinge up and creating a gap at the hinge point. I'm no trying to figure out a way to add a set of external latches to pull the hatch down to the main main body. Had to pull things apart to gain access so not a pretty picture. Need to add hard points to attach. The other problem I face if I can get these in place is how will the latch work in both the raised and closed position since the will sit at different angles. Other ideas? Frustrating since I want to get started with the interior but have to get this thing weather-tight.
Wish me luck.
Ch

result.jpg

Sorry for my previous not very clear explanation of suggested modifications, I did a quick markup on your photo, so that may show it better. Can you see what I mean? If done this way the folding door will stay flat and the folding wall will be structurally stronger. The header would take some headroom height from the entry door, but it is only 2", so hopefully it is not a big factor.

[cpowell243]

OP,
Thanks for taking the time to do the markup. I think you may misunderstand my problem. Everything works fine in he rear - when the hatch is lifted it creates enough space for the upper wall to fold down and sit on the lower wall.
The problem is with the hinge that connects the hatch to the main body, just behind the front doors in front.
I had an engineer friend look at it and he likes Gary's idea of adding a strap hinge on top of the living hinge, one on each side. My plan is to add a small (8") piece of 2X4 underneath the hatch and the main body along the sides, on either side of the hinge, then install the 8" strap hinge upside down in a slot I will cut in the living hinge and bolt in place through the hinge/styrofoam/wood on both sides to draw the hatch down where it is supposed to sit. A little extra weight and not so pretty but it needs to sit tight. Maybe no latch needed this way - we'll see. Next Beula day is Wednesday the 27th

[OP827]

Charlie,

I do understand your gas struts deforming your hinge and hatch issue. I think that the struts are located too close to the hinge to be not damaging to the foam structures. The further the struts are away from the hatch hinge the less force will be required from struts to lift the hatch and less force will be imposed on the living hinge, but then you need to change the struts to be longer. The struts location and forces are usually calculated and designed to avoid such issues. BTW, the gas struts suppose to be located upside down from your photo, see the article here-http://www.indgassprings.com/mounting-instructions.html
I personally am not a fan of struts use in a light foamie trailer structure, unless it is carefully designed.

My markup was for other modifications.

[cpowell243]

OP,
We'll see how things go with my hinge modification. The placement of the struts is clearly the problem, but these are the longest I could find. I can manage the hatch but a little too heavy for my wife without the springs. Had no problems with the hinge before I installed the sprngs.
Ch