Thrifty Alternatives ..Building Foam Campers

[Jiminsav]

Save your money, that plastic trim is worthless for outside use.

[pete42]

I bought plastic trim for my front garage I got tired of replacing the wood every couple years or so.
it is made to standup to the elements looks as good now as it dit 3 years ago.

pete

[bonnie]

Pete42,

Did you attach it with regular nails/screws? Use glue? Seal it in any way? As soon as I'm able, I want to buy some of this stuff and try out a window. Or a small box of some sort. A first blush, and with your experience, I think this will work really well.

Thanks for the input guys and gals.

Bonnie

[StandUpGuy]

Bonnie you do realize you need to frame the window or door opening in wood first right? This trim is simply an adornment to a house window. I am just under the impression that you think this trim is structural.

[Tiredoldwhiteman]

I am just under the impression that you think this trim is structural.

My thoughts exactly...

This stuff makes for excellent trim but I wouldn't use it anywhere structure is important...

Just my 2cents worth...

[pete42]

Like others have said it is trim I forget what it is called maybe garage door trim?
It has a profile molded into it measures. About 2x2x1 and I used special nails ones that don't rust nailed into the wood casement.
Don't let others talk you out of trying plastic if you do a test just to see what it does.
If it were up to some there wouldn't be any fomies.
Pete

[bonnie]

Stirred the pot, didn't I? So I sauntered down to my local Lowes and investigated.

Their PVC product is the rot proof brand for the most part. It comes in various lengths, is paintable and the 3/4" widths are quite flimsy. It's long lived. UV resistant. Pricey.

Now, I want to build windows. Based on what has been discussed here about using wood bracing pieces in the 2" foam walls it would seem to me that the 2x2 are more than sturdy enough to use as the framing in the foam for the window frame.

The window could then be fashioned out of a sandwich of the 5/8" x 5/8" pieces with the lexan sitting in a channel in the middle. The same 5/8" x 5/8" piece could be used as the stop on the interior frame.

The only question I would have is whether or not this stuff has expansion problems that might make it harder to open the window in certain types of weather. And how well the screws would really hold in the material when it is under the stress of moving and bouncing.

Time for a test window. Don't know of any other method of testing except to make one and see.

[GPW]

Pete , there were some naysayers at the beginning , less now since it’s been proven ... There will always be someone ...
Bonnie ... make one , but allow for expansion contraction in your measurements ... And BTW , real 2" lumber , not the 1.5â€

[bonnie]

That brings me yet another question.

I don't have access to a table saw, or any other large (read expensive) wood working tools. How I would I rip bigger boards down? Circular saw with some sort of jig?

Cheers,

Bonnie

[Wolffarmer]

Bonnie

You can mount your circular saw upside down in some plywood to make a table saw of sorts. Clamp a board to it to make a fence.

But don't sue me. I ain't got any money



Randy

[Verna]

That brings me yet another question.

I don't have access to a table saw, or any other large (read expensive) wood working tools. How I would I rip bigger boards down? Circular saw with some sort of jig?

Cheers,

Bonnie

Bonnie:

Yes, you can make a jig for your circular saw. But, do you have a neighbor who has a table saw who would let you rip your lumber for you? That would be the easier way.

I know of a guy in Belleville who raises Newfoundlund dogs who has a fantastic workshop....but I don't know his real name. I just know the name he uses on a woodworking forum. If you know of a guy who raises and trains the Newfie's, ask him if he'll either help you rip the lumber, or let you use his table saw. Tell him "Verna" in Indianapolis sent you.

PM me if you need help.

Verna

[bonnie]

You guys make me laugh.

Verna I will keep your kind offer in mind. I'm not quite to the wood stage as of yet. I may have a woodworker I can call on. Will need to ask if the wood shop moved when he did.

Thanks again everyone.

[linuxmanxxx]

Bonnie it really doesn't matter what you use as long as it has structural integrity and is sealed correctly there is no chance for rotting.

[Rosey]

I had some time to kill at work prior to an appointment and so I spent the time in a worthwhile fashion, searching the internet for things teardrop/foamie trailer related and came upon this article.

http://canoeguybc.wordpress.com/2011/11/20/alternatives-to-traditional-wood-canoe-canvas-fillers/

This guy talks about using other than traditional compounds to fill in the weave on canvas for a glossy smooth finish on a canoe. The traditional compound takes 4 weeks to cure and you gotta mix it yourself. The non-traditional compounds are ready mixed and dry quicker. Since I am one of those foamlings who wants a smooth gloss finish on my build, I will be doing more research on this, hoping I can use the technique on the "Road Foamie"

Here's the link to the latex lagging compound that he mentions

http://www.industrialinsulation.com/ima ... ng_adh.pdf

This has gotten my attention !!! Any one else with an opinion? Good? Bad? Otherwise?

Wow, I read up on this stuff, it seems like a product that is made to bond canvas to polystyrene would be perfect for our application! It looks like it is possible to buy this in 2 gal buckets from Airgas for $35. Definitely worth a try! Thanks for the heads up

[Wolffarmer]

Hey, over in the Build Journal section there is Desertmoose's build. He is doing canvas on plywood. I missed seeing it until the past few days.

Desertmoose

Might be worth keeping an eye on.

Randy