bonnie wrote:I am in the very beginning stages of building a pirogue canoe. I intend to deck it and make it more like a kayak.
I built one of
these a few years ago of epoxy and glass over 1/4" ply.

Despite the designer calling it a canoe, it has the flat bottom and hard chines of a pirogue. I found it to be much more tender ('tippy') than a canoe but once you get used to that, you can use the chines to help steer the boat much more than you can with the round chines of a canoe or a yak. I put a cambered foredeck on mine and a flat aft deck with a hatch. I could carry a whole lot of weight in camping gear but it was a beast to move through the water. I don't remember the last time I used it because it's such a barge - right now it's in a pile for my next dump run.
If you are starting with a canoe or pirogue design, the first thing I would do is reduce the freeboard (height of the sides above the water) because, when you're sitting in the bottom of the boat, the paddle shaft drags along the gunwhale. I would also narrow the beam for the same reason, but that would significantly change the shape of your side panels.
As for doing it on foam, I don't see why not - obviously it's not going to be very resistant to abrasion so you have to be careful, but there are plenty of skin boats out there that their owners have to be even
more careful with.
Personally I would use epoxy and glass, but I'm biased that way. Have you looked at the stitch and glue kayak designs from CLC (among others) ?
One ought to be able to replicate those panels in foam easily and you will be starting with an actual yak design. Whichever way you go, your plans were likely drawn for plywood: with foam you'll have less weight and more buoyancy so some adjustments might be needed to get the most out of it.
Then again, if you're just looking for something that floats and can be paddled, none of that really matters...
GPW wrote:No matter what forward rowing designs we look at they all seem to have the same basic geometry
There's a pretty noticeable loss in efficiency vs rowing backwards but it's still a lot less tiring than facing forward and trying to push the oars. I played around with them a little bit for my Whitehall but decided to K.I.S.S. instead. Gig Harbour Boat Works makes a bolt-on SS kit - I haven't seen anyone come up with anything other than a similar linkage system, personally. I would be interested to see what you guys come up with.