Removable Foamie camper. New Build

[zzzizxz]

After the corner bead dried on, I cut out the canvas for the wheel wells. I did cut a little long to account for any shrinkage that might happen. Then I just laid the pieces on the bottom of the camper and painted the one side, and then put them in the fresh paint on the foam.

They dried nicely, and I'll probably run a bead of caulk in the corner before I finish.







I haf been trying to figure out what to do about preshrinking the canvas, and not really wanting to try dealing with the whole 22 yards, but also being nervous about trying to measure and cut the roll into sections. I was concerned that I would mis-measure, or the like, and end up wasting large sections.
So, I decided that I would roll out enough for the bottom, plus about 30% extra, and just get it nice and wet.

I used cold water, and even with that, on a day that was only about 70 degrees, the amount of shrinkage was impressive.
This was about a 3-foot section, and it took me about 5 minutes between wetting the one side until I got to the other side.



After this dries, I figure I'll flip it over and soak the other side just to make sure all the fibers got nice and wet. Then, I assume that the paint won't really shrink anything more than the water did.

[zzzizxz]

I cut out the holes for the posts, and I'm ready to start canvassing the bottom!



The weather was cool enough and damp enough, and I was doing this in the garage, so I did this one half at a time. I folded the canvas from one side to the other, and painted the gripper on the foam, then on the canvas, and opened the canvas. Then I did the other side.



Once it was all open, I used a 2" foam roller and smoothed the bubbles out to the edges. Once it was all smooth and straight, I painted another coat of gripper on the bottom.
I haven't trimmed up the sides yet, but will try to get that tomorrow.



I'm sure I probably could have just used any latex paint, but I want to make absolutely sure that the bottom is totally waterproof. I know that gripper will stick to itself, and I shouldn't have any issues with de-lamination of the paint from the TBII like some others have had in high moisture areas.

[John61CT]

Yes me too, Gripper on Gripper all the way down for structural adhesive and robust waterproofing,

the final aesthetic color and UV outside coats being the only exception, likely urethane acrylic?

or Glidden Porch and Floor?

I have to say I'm puzzled by the penetrating posts, are those going to be on top? Might want to bed in Glidden Top Gun 400 as a sealant?

[GPW]

Guys , although we love T2 for our guitarmaking and bowmaking , we’ve sworn off for foamie trailer use , all replaced by ”The Gripper” ! We do have a wet climate here , but it wasn’t the usual deluges that took down the T2 covered areas …. it was just the morning dew …. every day … T2 couldn’t hang with the continuous soaking , it softened and allowed the canvas to rot Our recent floor rebuild was All done with the Gripper and drip edges were installed ( Gripper there too ) … It doesn’t take much to keep the water headed in right direction (OFF your trailer )

Looking GOOD ZZZ’ … !!!

[zzzizxz]

Yes me too, Gripper on Gripper all the way down for structural adhesive and robust waterproofing,

the final aesthetic color and UV outside coats being the only exception, likely urethane acrylic?

or Glidden Porch and Floor?

I have to say I'm puzzled by the penetrating posts, are those going to be on top? Might want to bed in Glidden Top Gun 400 as a sealant?

Final aesthetic color will probably be automotive paint to match the T.V. on the sides, and the top will be white, Probably also glidden, as you suggest.

What you're seeing right now is the bottom of the camper pod. Those posts are the side rails of the trailer. When I flip it over, the posts will slide into the pockets and get clipped down. This will make the camper pod removeable from the trailer itself.
What I may do eventually is buy another set of side rails, and build another camper pod, maybe a larger one for more sleeping room, or perhaps a smaller one for when I go camping without the family.

[zzzizxz]

Canvas edges trimmed and grippered down.



Vinyl spackling applied to smooth the transition and make the seams less noticeable.



I finally got my 100ah LiFePO4 battery! I bought it for $650 shipped from China, as well as my 100w solar panel. I hooked everything up to make sure it all worked. It looks great!



20a charge controller from Amazon.



As soon as I sand down the spackling and cover it with a coat of paint, I can turn this back right side up and start building up!
I'm so excited to see this start looking like a trailer!

[GPW]

Fun when it all starts to come together into a trailer shape … Then you can sit inside and do some “trailer thinking” …

[Philip]

Fun when it all starts to come together into a trailer shape … Then you can sit inside and do some “trailer thinking” …

Don't even get him started doing that. That could lead into a redesign and start over.

[GPW]

… True eh !!!

[zzzizxz]

Fun when it all starts to come together into a trailer shape … Then you can sit inside and do some “trailer thinking” …

Don't even get him started doing that. That could lead into a redesign and start over.

Ha! I DO need to sit and do some "trailer thinking" to figure out how I'm going to configure the sleeping and galley areas though, as I haven't figured out exactly how I want them.

No, I've got enough of a time crunch that no redesign for this one. I have started thinking about my next one though!

The fun thing about a removeable camping pod for the trailer is that I could possibly have a couple different options. Teardrop for ease of towing, a canned ham style for if the family is going to a local campground and wants no setup and have A/C. I could even maybe make a mini-half pod for when I go out camping by myself and don't need a full teardrop but want to bring my canoe and/or bicycle. I would just have to buy another set of side rails from the trailer company, and I would be good to go!

[zzzizxz]

For the interior floor and walls, I'm using this 1/4 luan underlayment. Between the wood glued sheet on the interior, 2" foam, then the grippered canvas, the floor should be completely waterproof, and this will make it solid enough without being very heavy.



My workshop as it were. This is my wife's spot in the garage, but it was raining, so I parked her outside so I could get some work done after dark.



Routed out 1/2 inch shiplap joints for the floorboards to keep the different boards from flexing differently.



I'm going to glue the boards together, but not planning on gluing the boards to the camper. In case there is ever any water that gets in, I will be able to rip the flooring out and replace it without destroying the camper.


First piece of floor is in!

[John61CT]

Not saying wood's not nice, but what is its function?

greater tensile strength for spanning the support beam spacing?

puncture resistance?

[tac422]

Your corners look great !
I did what you did in the wheelwell, , but I also used rounded bullnose on all the outside corners.

[zzzizxz]

Not saying wood's not nice, but what is its function?

greater tensile strength for spanning the support beam spacing?

puncture resistance?

That wood is the interior floor. I just don't trust even the canvas to protect the foam when walking/crawling around inside. Especially since I plan on the kids sleeping in there, so there's a good chance of jumping and rough housing.

[zzzizxz]

Your corners look great !
I did what you did in the wheelwell, , but I also used rounded bullnose on all the outside corners.

Nice! I looked at the rounded bullnose, but couldn't see how it would work with the corner. Did you have to round off the edge of the foam to make it fit? I kind of wish I had done that now, as it looks easier to get a good bond at the corner with the bullnose. The stuff I'm using you have to work at the canvas a bit to get it to not pull away.