#1

[Fred Trout]

Will give that a try, thanks. Heading out to work on the teardrop now before the rains start again, heh.



Edit: Nah, the blade is just too thin to track tru to full depth - good idea, bad results with 2" foam door cutout which was right on the line on the side I could see but the cut on the back side is all over the place +- .5 inch. Might be better with 1" foam but a fine tooth wood blade really does not generate all that much dust and is thick enough not to flex so much.

[ghcoe]

Well I did make some progress with the foamie today. I finally got the left side interior wiring done and it is working as planned. This side is going slow, but the right side should go fast since I will know how it will go together.

[Fred Trout]

Glad to see that you are still working on this. Thought you might have decided to work on the new standy design instead.

[ghcoe]

Yes a little at a time. Too cold in the winter, super busy come spring and then too hot in summer. I am down to finishing the wiring, fitting the doors and final canvasing. I was hoping to get this done before April, but now I just want it done before the end of summer. Maybe some fall trips before the hard winter sets in.

[GPW]

Maybe Next Spring ???

[ghcoe]

Temp here today is 100 but I did get the door frame glued and clamped.

Door frame on and clamped

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I used caulk for the glue on this one. Going to give it a try here since it worked great inside.

Caulk

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I place a piece of wood along each edge to give a tight bond to the foam on the flanged side. On the back side I place the wood just inside the flashing edge so that the clamping action would clamp the foam instead of on the flashing edge. You can see if I did not clamp on the foam there could be a 1/8 inch or so of room for the foam to move in.

Back side of door

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[Wolffarmer]

Has your foam melted yet?

Around 100 at my house now.

[ghcoe]

Has your foam melted yet?

Around 100 at my house now.

No not melted, but I did notice that it bowed quickly when I put it in the sun this morning. 101 here now......

[Wolffarmer]

It is 97 in town on the banks of the river. I am north of there out in the desert. I will call it over 100 here.


I think I will get neiked and go set under my trees. Wait for missionaries to stop by.

[Fred Trout]

Maybe I am too slow tonite. Trying to figure out if all the wood pieces shown are being glued to the door or if some of it is there to get a good clamp with good contact over the whole length. What are the pointed overhanging lengths for or is that going to be trimmed off ? Not really understanding the point about foam movement either - you mean up and down and side to side or panel warping kind of movement ? Have pity on the slow witted

My latest door plan is using no flashing at all on the door - just GS to add 1x2 + 1/2 ply/osb to make the wood edge 2" deep same as foam edge and add a flange on the inside wall. The wood edge is needed to make the foam door straight & true (it is currently quite bowed from the factory) and provide a hard even surface to make the compression seal on the gasket.

Also lets me fix the crooked cuts to get a good even door shape.

PS got driven out of the garage at noon today by the heat - my clothes were literally dripping sweat by 2 hours of canvas application inside the foamie.

[ghcoe]

The wood is just some scrap wood I keep around. I am using it to spread the clamping force of the clamps along the flashing so that I get a smooth transition from foam to flashing on the face of the door. I only applied caulk to the flashing that mated up with the door face and left the flashing that goes around the edge portion of the door unglued at this time. The flashing is just a bit wider than the foam so I placed the wood on the foam on the back side instead of on the edge of the flashing so that when I applied clamping force it would push in on the foam instead of just clamping on the edge of the flashing. Since the flashing is a bit wider it would have allow the foam to float the small distance in between and could have caused the front portion of the door to flashing transition not to be flush with each other.

The flashing helps to fix the not so straight cuts too. Once the caulk dries I will then probably use GS to glue the edge portion to the door. I can then tape the edge to the back side of the door and let the GS fill voids and I should have a nice straight edge.

[Fred Trout]

Thanks George for clearing that up.

Would be nice to see a closeup of the door once the glue-up clamps are removed. I assume the wood overlap flange is on the outside like T molding. I like using the flashing but it seems like more work than needed when all I want it a nice square hard edge and something to straighten out the door bow. Need the wood in the door anyway for the piano hinge and passage door knob. Lots of places where flashing is a great solution - thanks for showing us how to do it.

BTW, using one or two per side of those nylon dry-wall-screw-sets (got them at Walmart) to get strong positive contact between the flashing and the foam it covers might be useful rather than relying on clamping only. See my test viewtopic.php?t=63250&p=1128813

I remove the steel screws just like the clamps when done.

[ghcoe]

Well it was a bit hard to try to describe. Here are some pictures of the finished project.

Door with clamps off

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The flashing is flush with the foam.

Flashing is flush with foam

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Removing excess caulk that squeezed out during clamping.

Removing excess caulk

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[ghcoe]

Flashing make a nice straight edge that is ding resistant and will make a hard point for hardware.

Straight edge #2

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Straight edge

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[ghcoe]

And now for the test fit on the foamie.

Test fitting the door outside view

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Test fitting the door inside view

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