Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I got lazy and decided to try the bendable drywall trim for the rear hatch radius. I had used metal along the front, but had to cut it every inch for it to bend. I did find that if you place the trim along the edge and let the full length of the radius overhang the radius it will bend slowly with some time. This makes it a lot easier to install because you are not fighting the bend in the edging.





Tomorrows objectives, install the door jamb, do final edging on hatch (two strips), final fairing and paint. If I get this done I should be ready to canvas the outside Thursday .

ghcoe wrote:For anyone that may want to run separate turn signals on their trailers with conventional combined brake/signal wiring.

This is the product you will need, a Vehicle to Vehicle Tail Light Converter http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and ... 56196.html . If you are using it for a trailer and not for towing a vehicle you do not need the recommended diodes. I think I will use this one so that I can use the trailer easily between different vehicles.

This sounds great, thanks. Could you please share the schematics details of this setup when you do it. I am thinking of doing the same, but I am behind you with the wiring, so if it works for you, I will do it too

Nice progress and I like how you install the cutout wiring channel foam piece back with acrylic caulking. This is much simplier than using a router etc. Great ideas, thanks for sharing!

I have wondered for years why some one does not make a five wire trailer light kit. Just for foreign vehicles.

OP827 wrote:This sounds great, thanks. Could you please share the schematics details of this setup when you do it. I am thinking of doing the same, but I am behind you with the wiring, so if it works for you, I will do it too

Nice progress and I like how you install the cutout wiring channel foam piece back with acrylic caulking. This is much simplier than using a router etc. Great ideas, thanks for sharing!

If you hover over the picture you can see the hook up instructions on the unit. Input is left turn/stop, ground, right/turn stop. Output is left turn, stop, right turn. Pretty simple.

Thanks and not problem.

Great, thanks! I'll go online shopping for taillights with amber turn signal now , Cheers!

Well it's been a busy couple of days....

First I had to get the passenger side door jamb installed. Flashing, beading, drilling, riveting......

Next was the wiring channel for the roof vent and center lights. Had to get the vent frame ready for riveting in place. I used caulking as a glue between the roof and the flashing. Rivets will be placed in the frame. I must not of got a picture of this, sorry.

Next was to get the doors faired in. Time to get rid of the flashing.......



I found that it is easier to add the plaster, sand and once you get it smooth as possible add a coat of Gripper. Once the Gripper is dry it will not sand very easy. That way you are not shooting yourself in the foot by sanding the plaster past what you have already worked. I am thinking it also make a very strong bond.



I am pleased with how well the flashing was hidden.

Well it was time to fair the whole body and get ready for some canvas.

So it was time to canvas. I realized that all my information was from what I have read and everyone has a different way that they tired using different techniques and.........Ahhhhh Someone really needs to make a sticky for this one .

In any case I finally just went for it. I found that the canvas was a bit hard to get to lay right over the front and rear radius. I finally found a 2x4x8 that I placed on top of the roof to extend the roof line past the radiuses. This help a lot to get the canvas to lay right.



Once I got the canvas situated where I wanted it I marked along the top edge for a reference and then flipped the canvas over the top.





I mixed my TBII 3-1 and began to apply the TB to the trailer body and to the back side of the canvas. I kept a water bottle and a small roller with me to help with the smoothing and keeping things wet and workable. This worked quite well. I had a 3 inch brush that I would brush the TBII onto the canvas and body and I would work about 3-4 inches at a time moving the canvas down a little with each sweep.

Once I got about half way down I realized this plan was not going to work out for the rest of the canvasing. I had to come up with another plan half way through the play . Had to work quick because I had TBII drying and the sun was starting to hit the trailer too . Looking around I spied a 1x2x8 and rolled the rest of the canvas up onto it . This worked out perfectly in a pinch and will be the way I will do the other side as well as the roof.



The rest of the body was pretty much the same system. Paint body with TBII, paint backside of canvas with TBII, unroll canvas, mist canvas with water, smooth out canvas, paint body with TBII, paint backside of canvas with TBII, unroll canvas, mist canvas with water, smooth out canvas, ect. I camped the canvas at the door opening so I did not have to worry about working around a clamp.



A water bottle and a small roller are real handy with the canvasing process. I used the water to keep the canvas damp and the roller to push the canvas into the TBII and smooth everything out.

Here is a shot of the done deal. Once I finished the canvasing I went ahead and used the roller to push the canvas into the TBII. I kept at it till the canvas was nearly dry.

Great work. Making strong progress.

Looking good and you seem to have worked out your own method !!!