Newbie Looking Leaning Towards a Foamie (My Question Thread)

[GPW]

I’d find a real lumberyard !!!!!!!!!! .... It’s Totally Ridiculous to pay 5X for the clear lumber... What a RIPOFF!!! Here clear wood is only a little more (like 10-15%) than the regular knotty wood ...

[jseyfert3]

I’d find a real lumberyard !!!!!!!!!! .... It’s Totally Ridiculous to pay 5X for the clear lumber... What a RIPOFF!!! Here clear wood is only a little more (like 10-15%) than the regular knotty wood ...

Hmm, will do. There are a couple around here, I'll take a trip and see if they have what I need.

[jseyfert3]

Well, I stopped by one. At this lumberyard the common pine 1x4 is $0.40/ft, and the clear is $0.80/ft. That puts the common pine at $3.20 for an 8' piece, vs $2.20 for Menard's quality. Didn't snap any pics, but the common pine looks better then the Menard's "quality". But when it comes to the clear, 8' would be $6.40 vs $9.59 at Menard's. Overall the clear looked straighter too, but I'm curious whether that's cause the Menard's stuff is inside and drier and the lumberyard's is outside (but sheltered), so being more damp lays flatter, or it it's simply better quality. I'm guessing the later.

Thanks for the suggestion, GPW.

Oh, and my drill came today. I like how the shaft locks when you don't hold the trigger, so you can tighten and loosen the bit without holding the shaft too, unlike on my cheap HF corded drill where the chuck is split into a part that holds the shaft and a part that tightens the chuck. I got a bit stuck it that HF drill yesterday cause I couldn't hold the tiny part of the chuck that kept the shaft from rotating with enough force to unlock the bit. Had to use locking pliers to hold that part so I could get the bit out. Anyhow, now I have a matched cordless set, drill holes with the drill, then drive the screws with the impact driver (unless I need the clutch for sensitive projects).

Impack Driver and 3/8" Drill/Driver by jseyfert3, on Flickr

And now, I really need to get started on painting that bedroom before the sun goes down. Distractions, distractions...

[KCStudly]

I have always thought that the big box lumber gets treated poorly when in transit and stored outside. I've literally seen them bring in bundles that were covered in snow. You can usually see the moisture in the pile when you pick thru. Doesn't make sense to pay for kiln dried when they go and let it get soaking wet.

Whereas you nailed it; the true lumber yards keep their stock under a shed roof and don't let it get wet in the first place.

I can't say for sure, anything is possible, but it makes sense to me.

Here's another thought. The high volume DIY (big box) stores have hundreds of people picking over the wet wood, leaving behind the worst, so that's what you find on the top of the pile when you get there. Whereas the contractor grade supplier takes a bundle or three out to the job site, and gives the GC credit back on any lumber that doesn't pass muster (if the GC is so inclined to ask for it). What doesn't get used because it is warped or knotted up goes in the job site dumpster or burn pile (or some kid steals it and makes a skate ramp). Either way it is removed from the product stream.

[GPW]

Regrettably , we Never buy wood at a Box store anymore ... Much better wood to be found at a place that specializes in wood only .... Much cheaper , Much better wood ... The Plywood used to make the FS ribs was bought at a lumberyard ($32) , an American product , the box store only had Chi-Ply and at 45bucks a sheet (and it is “crap” ) .... grrrrrrr!!!!!
Noticed that a lot of box store hardware is Chi too ... and more expensive than the local mom and pop Hdwe. store... which I always assumed to be more expensive...

You PAY for the box store convenience, one way or the other ... so it’s not really a good deal at all ... JMHO...

[be_a_jayhawk]

I hit the clearance rack at HD the othe day 70% off for the bent stuff, good deal considering I am going to cut off the 3 ft of bent wood to make my 5 ft cross pieces. I picked up 6 1x4s for 5 bucks.

[jseyfert3]

I wasn't sure whether to stick these here or in the build thread. I figured here, and leave the build thread strictly to pics and descriptions of my actual build.

I played around with my model for about 45 minutes on sketchup, just bringing what's in my head and putting it "on paper", in a manner of speaking.

TD Front Left View - some details by jseyfert3, on Flickr


TD Rear Right View - some details by jseyfert3, on Flickr

Not completely what I have in mind. I actually want the curves to start below the floor, either at the bottom of the 1x4's or even all the way down to the bottom of the HF trailer. That way the trailer would not be visible. But it was hard enough to figure out how to make some nice looking curves in Sketchup, and I don't feel like going back and changing that at this particular moment. I probably will at some point in time, however. Since the wood sub-frame is 8' long, the front and rear curves will be cut from a different sheet of foam, and will not be the same sheet at the majority of the walls. I'll then glue them onto the walls.

There will be a little shelf at the head of the bed, as shown. The shelf in the rear is for planning purposes, would make a good shelf for small item storage. There will be another, lower shelf, for general purpose kitchen stuff like cooking and whatnot. Still a lot to plan out, but some won't be planned until further along in the build. It's cool to see a rough draft sketched up though.

[KCStudly]

Look here, an original profile is no small feat! Don't discount it. This could be the single biggest thing that makes or breaks the first and overall impression of your build. Really.

Take the time to make sure that you are happy with it. It will set the tone for your entire build. Do not under value it.

Yes, playing with radii and center locations and ellipsis can become maddening, but you must not "settle" until you are truly satisfied.

You really do appear to have gotten a true handle on Sketchup; use it to your advantage and seal the deal.

That said, what you have shown looks pretty damn good. It proves to me that you know what you are doing and can make whatever changes you need to to get that extra 5/ct to make yourself truly happy. My personal preference is not so concerned with covering the frame because I would rather crash steel on stone than wood, but that is a function of my intended use and vision, as much as yours is for you.

What I have learned is that this is a much more involved and longer process than we might have originally thought (... depends on your goals and threshold of quality, of course), so take your time and please yourself.

[tac422]

Here's a build thread that looks very similar.
Just in case you haven't seen it ....

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=44091

[jseyfert3]

Look here, an original profile is no small feat! Don't discount it. This could be the single biggest thing that makes or breaks the first and overall impression of your build. Really.

Take the time to make sure that you are happy with it. It will set the tone for your entire build. Do not under value it.

Yes, playing with radii and center locations and ellipsis can become maddening, but you must not "settle" until you are truly satisfied.

You really do appear to have gotten a true handle on Sketchup; use it to your advantage and seal the deal.

That said, what you have shown looks pretty damn good. It proves to me that you know what you are doing and can make whatever changes you need to to get that extra 5/ct to make yourself truly happy. My personal preference is not so concerned with covering the frame because I would rather crash steel on stone than wood, but that is a function of my intended use and vision, as much as yours is for you.

What I have learned is that this is a much more involved and longer process than we might have originally thought (... depends on your goals and threshold of quality, of course), so take your time and please yourself.

You have some good points. It's just that the built in tools where very limited for modeling a classic style profile. By default, there is circles, rectangles, and arcs. Arcs cannot be draw non-symmetrically. So I basically got that original shape looking fairly good somewhat by chance with a bit of frustration. Today, I tried updating the shape to go down to the bottom of the wood subframe and extent more forward, and was getting exasperated with the limited curve drawing tools after about half an hour of no progress. Getting too annoyed to continue that way, I started searching, and quickly discovered that Sketchup allows plug-ins. I got a curve plug-in, and shaped up a very nice looking curve with ease, using the Beizer curve tool.

This may be a little tricky to copy onto the actual foam, but it shouldn't be that hard. I should be able to use a grid to transfer the curve manually from computer to the foam.

Here's a much better model. The colors of the roof and walls are different for clarity, and not pink because the final color will definitely not be pink, and I didn't want an unpleasant (to me) color throwing off how I thought of the profile. Still not complete, but the usefulness of the model cannot be understated, as you have said. Getting even better at Sketchup, too. (This is not my first model)

Teardrop Shape 1 Completed by jseyfert3, on Flickr


Teardrop Shape 1 Completed Profile View by jseyfert3, on Flickr

It's a given there will be changes before I commit, but I would venture to say this is fairly close to how the overall shape will look. I need to double check clearance for tight maneuvering, the TD may extend too far forward to be able to really crank the trailer over if I need to in a particular back-up scenario. I will model a version where the curve's profile goes down another couple inches to cover the HF frame to compare. I also want to model a tongue box, however, I'm planning to avoid one unless my trailer does not balance as desired, as I like the cleaner look of a TD without a tongue box. I'm thinking I can hide the deep cycle battery in the front curve of the TD if I need a little more tongue weight. I am also considering the smallest window shaker AC I can find, might be nice for those hot summer days it's hard to sleep in. Not sure if I want a permanent mount, removable, or convert the AC to a portable unit that connects with hoses. Still lots to consider.

GPW, does the polyurethane in "the mix" need to be exterior? Asking because the previous owners of my house left among the various paints/wood finishes, two gallons of interior oil based poly. I figure the mix is a lot nicer then the "black goo" to apply to the sub-frame for protection (especially easy using my compressor and a cheap HF spray gun!), and if it will work okay, it's free! Also other stuff like door, window, roof fan, and hatch framing needs the mix applied before painting, and I figure interior should be good there, just curious about interior with "the mix" to protect the sub-frame from road spray.

Untitled by jseyfert3, on Flickr

Just for fun, this was my first model in Sketchup. I was planning an aquarium stand to hold two 20 gallon long tanks.

Coming along - everything by jseyfert3, on Flickr

Verses the real thing (CO2 tank not added yet):


Was really cool comparing the semi-final model to the semi-final product. The TD model to product is going to be much cooler.

[GPW]

JS, NICE Aquarium !!!
And a very NICE profile design for the trailer ...
  Great find on the poly !!! .... by the time you cut it with Mineral Spirits , 2 gallons make 8 gallons of the mix ... enough to waterproof many wood projects ... Being solvent based , and mostly used in interior areas anyway (out of the sun) You’ll be just fine ... Basically all the mix will be sunk deep into the wood ... doing it’s job !!!

[jseyfert3]

JS, NICE Aquarium !!!
And a very NICE profile design for the trailer ...
  Great find on the poly !!! .... by the time you cut it with Mineral Spirits , 2 gallons make 8 gallons of the mix ... enough to waterproof many wood projects ... Being solvent based , and mostly used in interior areas anyway (out of the sun) You’ll be just fine ... Basically all the mix will be sunk deep into the wood ... doing it’s job !!!

Thanks, thanks, and thanks.

Did a little more work. Added in a shelf at 3' height from the ground (on a level site!), which will be the main kitchen counter. Also extended the headboard shelf out to take up the increased front curve space.

Teardrop Shape 1 Completed Bed_headboard_bed shelf view by jseyfert3, on Flickr


Teardrop Shape 1 Completed Gallery View by jseyfert3, on Flickr

Then I figured I'd see how it would look with signal lights. I figure I'll use round, it's either round or oval; square works on a Jeep because the Jeep is square. Teardrops are rounded, so square lights would look out of place.

I also painted the trailer frame. Now I see less need to bring the curve down to the bottom of the HF trailer side rails, with it painted black it looks okay, and can also be a mounting point for the license plate and extra reflectors.

Teardrop V1 with lights by jseyfert3, on Flickr


Teardrop V1 with lights (2) by jseyfert3, on Flickr

Getting eager to continue actual work though, the model is great but building an awesome, 100% true to life model is time I'm not building the real thing. Planning is great, but as KCStudly said in another thread, "eventually you have to fire the engineer and start production".

[jseyfert3]

I forgot to ask a question in regards to the hurricane ties. When I first was looking at them at Menards, they had them in two options. Galvanized ($0.84/each), or a "Gold Coat" for twice the price ($1.79/each). What is this "Gold Coat" and is it worth it?

Hurricane Ties: Galvanised vs Gold Coat? by jseyfert3, on Flickr

[KCStudly]

Just a hunch...

Look at the edges of the galv'd ones. I suspect you will see that the edges also have galv. on them as if they were plated after stamping and forming. If this is the case I would use them.

If the edges are raw that means that the part was stamped out of galv. sheet stock and they did nothing to treat the edges. In the later case you will get rust from the untreated edges.

The "gold" may be a zinc chromate plating (or something inspired to look like it). If the galv. ones are raw on the edges this second treatment is probably the OEM's way of solving the rusty edge problem.

[tac422]

The more expensive one sign states " for use with treated wood "