Thrifty Alternatives ..Building Foam Campers

[tac422]

well, you already know ....
I like the drywall corners
tac

[ghcoe]

well, you already know ....
I like the drywall corners
tac

I was about to say the same thing. If you 45 the cut at the edge the rounded corner beading would fit nicely. Also, the flashing I am using is rounded over some too.

[KCStudly]

I used a 1/8 round over bit in the router. I hope its enough for the canvas and glue.

[GPW]

It would seem just getting rid of any sharp edges would be beneficial ... no matter how that was accomplished... Just think of it like a Sharp knife vs. a dull one ... A dull knife doesn’t cut anything ... not even canvas ...

This is really such a minor consideration in the grand scheme of all things Foamie', but it may help the canvas and reinforcing strip to last Much longer ... in what we’ve always assumed was one of the higher Stressed areas of the cabin ...

[Bogo]

If you want to toughen the rounded corner up a bit. Use aluminum flashing instead of, or in addition to, the reinforcing strip. It'll provide a much greater degree of puncture resistance from road debris. For most people it would be possible to do this on long straight edges, but for the skilled it could also be done on curved edges.

[Jack B.]

Maybe I'm missing it with the talk about flashing and what you mean. My thoughts are that an external "trim piece that covers the floor/wall junction would give protection to the fabric AND strengthen the floor/wall connection. But perhaps that's what ya'll are saying when you're talking flashing. Rounding certainly would be an asset in that area and the trim piece could just as well be an extra thick layer of some sturdy fabric in a contrasting color. There's a reason that when you make a 90 degree junction in boat building you don't just slap the end against the wall and glue/screw/nail it in place. You create a hard spot that way that does nothing to ease the stresses applied to the spot. You fillet in smooth curves away from the junction to spread the pain and lessen the chance of failure. Pretty sure that the idea is almost as good from the outside too.

The above is for free. I'm a musician who's between engagements and can't afford the two cents that everybody seems to want to offer up on ideas.

Jack

[KCStudly]

Tac422 used drywall corner trim on his Big Pink thread (formerly Big Mike's foamie standy), and ghcoe is using metal flashing as a hard edge on his #1 build.

No charge for the info.

[GPW]

Jack, you can build a trailer for busking , like that Cheech and Chong trailer ... side folds down into a stage ...

[Jack B.]

You gotta know that idea came up in my mind a long time ago. One show band I was in wanted to do a rail car with a drop down wall. Never have to tear down the gear or mess with the stage mix. The bus wasn't tall enough to really do the concept justice.

As a sidebar, if you've never tried to heft a 350# plus Hammond B3 up a flight of narrow stage steps you ain't lived. And I'm here to tell you it doesn't get any easier the older you get. But I'm not bitter.

Jack

ps. Up to page 58 on the FS build thread. I've got some questions but will wait until I see if they get answered in the storyline. Guess I'll go make some more popcorn and get back to digital page turning.

pps. Digital page turning. Now wouldn't it be nice to have Kindle/Nook/iPad version of these threads to load onto those devices so as to be able to have them with us on the (wilderness) go? Added bonus is that they would then be easily searchable. Who ever's in charge . . . Get on it.

JC

[Bogo]

I was thinking putting a metal flashing into the layers. It would provide rock ding protection to the edge of the plywood right where it is most vulnerable to water intrusion.

[linuxmanxxx]

Jack there is and is app called Tapatalk not sure how much can be cached for offline access

[Jack B.]

Posted this to the FS thread too:

Ta-da! Just finished the whole FS thread. That puppy is a beauty.

My one big question didn't get answered. How much for a set of hole-less ribs IF he even still thinks he would be doing them for others? But then of course I don't think they would need to be as deep (3" right?) as yours so it would probably end up meaning different program parameters and another set-up charge. Without the holes and patience with the skill and sabre saws one might could do a job that could be hidden behind some kinda covering.

If I were going the FS route, which is a strong possibility, the only things I would do differently (after reading about your toils and troubles) is to spend the extra money for the pink sheets, maybe do an inch and a half thick in two layers to facilitate bending and . . . (drum roll) . . . instead of doing the quarter dome on top I would do the front arc wall all the way up with about a 30 degree angle cut sliced back-to-front downward taken off so as to use a flat sheet across it. Taking three inches off the foam thickness would come close to making it possible to sleep across the trailer thus giving a bit more open floor area for band practices.

Half circle tube with a flat slanted top would be much easier, not give up too much headroom, probably not affect towing all that much AND would give a flat canvas to paint on inside. Probably would go with a bit lighter canvas as well since I'm not a Job type of fella when things start to go w-a-y south and I start to have a bad glue/hair day.

I'm sure the quarter dome is stronger for resisting wind from the front, but a few dowel rods going down through the flat panel and into the curved wall should more than give enough lateral strength in that regard. Would also have to be much easier to cover without a complex curve to deal with. You also end up with a flat surface for a sky light and/or a crank up vent/fan combo.

Jack

[GPW]

That’s a Lot to think about Jack ...

[Jack B.]

It's so much easier to formulate a plan when you've already seen the bulk of the work done by somebody else. The first person to do the work finds a lot of the bumps in the road for the rest of us to avoid. When/if I start a build I feel I'm already half way there just because all ya'll folks have already "paved" part of the way to the destination. Wouldn't have had the T-Bird without the Model-A. Wouldn't have gotten to Cape Canaveral with going to Kitty Hawk. Would seem that you've built the Corvair, the Nomad and are now planning for a Suburban.

The little tube trailer cutaway drawing with the half circle deck on the front from on here somewhere looks kinda interesting. Put a half circle front on it like the FS and then a half circle fold down deck on the back and you could have a nice little "oval hovel". Sorry. sometimes I just have to go there. If you're nodding I'm sorry. If you don't get it then I'm embarrassed.

Jack

[ghcoe]

I was thinking putting a metal flashing into the layers. It would provide rock ding protection to the edge of the plywood right where it is most vulnerable to water intrusion.

I do like the flashing along the bottom edges for a few reasons. I do believe it makes for a much stronger foam to floor bonding as well as great protection against anything that may hit that area. Also, it will make for a great attachment point for marker lights. I will be using the flashing for other hard points in the build just because it is so easy to work with and does not require cutting out foam for wood or such. I will warn you though, the flashing is a bit trick to work with to get it to lay smooth against the foam while the paint sets up. On the bottom edges I used Great Stuff where the flashing came in contact with the floor and Gripper where it came in contact with the foam.

Flashing

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I like the flashing so much I am also using it for around the doors, on the doors and along the leading edges of the shelves. I have glued up two shelves this way already and it makes for a strong shelf reinforcement. I also have a few other ideas on making the shelves even stronger, but waiting to see how this works by itself.

Shelf flashing

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