Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Why an oil based top coat ??? Totally unnecessary , and not that good over Latex ...

I don't remember hearing anyone mentioning primer either. Pretty sure the tests were done with just the exterior latex top coat as the glue. One wet coat on the foam, one wet coat on the back of the canvas, unfold and stick. IIRC.

GPW,
Oil based paints are more duable once cured. It's preferred over water based paint on anything that might get scuffed, scratched, or dinged.

KC,
I went by the test results from the "glue info for foamies" stickie where it was suggested that Kilz 2 seemed to have the best results.

Has this opinion changed?

Many ways to do it .... Do what You think is right and then tell us if it works .... or not ...

This kind of brings me back to questioning why one would or wouldn't do something, from a logic stand point.

We didn't trend away from oil based paints because the water based versions were better. We did it because they are far easier to deal with in both clean-up and disposal.

In other words, there were reasons other than quality that pushed us away from using them.

When people want the most durable finish they can get, though, they still turn to oil based finishes (at least for anything that's going to come out of a can, anyway).

Want to keep your frame from rusting.. you buy Rustoleum. It's oil based.

Want to repaint your kitchen cabinets and not have to do it again in another year (especially if you have kids), you buy oil based paint.

Does that apply here? Don't know. May not be able to use oil based paint directly on foam (which is why I suggested Kilz 2 as the primer).

All that said, I certainly haven't read every post in the foamie section (or anywhere else in the forum for that matter). But, thus far, I haven't seen a reason to NOT use it beyond the "good enough" factor of water based paint.

Does somebody know of any?

TJinPgh wrote:KC,
I went by the test results from the "glue info for foamies" stickie where it was suggested that Kilz 2 seemed to have the best results.

Has this opinion changed?

Have you seen Big Mike's myriad adhesion tests?

Or his 10' Standie Build? On page 10 he says, "...in my testing I found that the adhesion of canvas to foam is better when using the exterior enamel. So that's what I'll be using. - Mike"

If you have not seen these, they are highly recommended; lots of useful info in there.

I'm not aware of any more extensive testing, and others have had good results using this method.

The primer referred to in the above links is for filling in the weave in the canvas after it has been applied, but before final top coat; for those that would like a smoother final finish.

I just looked back thru most of the 10' thread and, at least for the walls, Mike painted the foam, laid the canvas on the wet paint and then painted over the canvas. I am sure I have seen the technique of laying the canvas on for alignment, then folding it back, then painting both the foam and the underside of the canvas in stages, flipping the canvas down to join the wet faces together, then coming back after to paint the outside in a separate operation (maybe Mike did that for the roof? I couldn't scan thru all of the 10' build tonight because things keep failing to connect and I need to go to bed. Oh, but I see that you did post there, so you did see it.)

There is so much info in all of these different variations that I find myself forgetting a bunch, but it seems that there are so many more ways that work than those that don't, so I have confidence that it will work for me, too.

Well, wouldn't say more extensive, for sure. Perhaps just different.

I was looking at the glue thread that was stickied.

In looking at Mike's tests, truthfully, none of the foam/paint tests were overly impressive with respect to adhesion. They all seemed to come off rather easy.

The exterior paint on the wood held really well, though.

Kilz 2 is considered, by an large, a better product than Zinsser. Wonder how it would work with that.

Will have to read through the build thread, though.

I've found the krylon and lowes brand of water based latex/enamel around 7 a quart is extremely durable and dries fast and much better than straight latex paint.

In any event, I THINK I've more or less settled on the design. Took cues from the Bunker and Steve's Microcampers as well as my own designs.













After reading through some of the glue threads, I'm still not sure how I feel about gluing fabric directly to the foam. My concerns are NOT of overall structure strength.

I trust that it's strong enough. Just not sure I trust the bond between the fabric and the foam. I worry about things like tree branches and such that might scrape up against the roof or sides while camping or parking.

I admit it... I suck at backing these things in.

So, at this point, I'm leaning a bit more toward the foam ideas that more or less started this section of the forum and going with a foam sandwhich situation instead. Skinned with something on the outside. Probably thin ply that I'll either paint or consider further skinning with fabric.

Doing so, of course, leaves me with a seam on the roof. Will just have to deal with that. Probably fiber tape it and go from there.

I like the aluminim angle of the Bunker on the corners. Although, the flexible stuff Steve uses is good too.

Steve, not sure where you found that. Is it cost effective?

Simplified interior. Sideways bed. Small cabinet. Might make a foldable or removable table to connect to it for interior eating.

About the only thing I haven't decided on yet is whether or not I want to build the box out to 5x8 instead of 4x8.

The 5x8 means there's only a 6" overhang which might have better balance. The 4x8 is, naturally, easier to build as it doesn't require boxing around the wheels. That leaves a 12" overhang which may need bracing. Not sure on that, yet.

That looks much simpler.

Is it still a standy or now just a slouchy?

Slouchy. For me, anyway.

Interior should be about 5' high, give or take.

Not quite sure how much it will end up weighing in the end. Will ultimately depend on how I end up skinning it, I guess. That, and what I end up using for doors and windows.

I wouldn't think I should have a big problem keeping it under 1000 pounds, though?

The only other thing I'm trying to decide is what to do about the door.

It makes the most sense to have it go all the way down to the floor. As has been said, it would certainly make getting in and out easier. Otherwise, a step will need to be implemented.

My question, though, is which way is more structurally sound. The way it's drawn or with the opening all the way down. Or, is there no difference?

While the stepover at the bottom may be stronger, I am sure it it strength that isn't really needed. You have a decent amount of shear strength in the walls on each side of the door(provided you make each of those sides a solid piece all the way to the floor). If you make it too difficult to enter/exit, you are less likely to enjoy using it. Otherwise it is a really nice design and very functional.

Maybe a little more like this...



I'm still wondering if I'm going to need some kind of bracing under the over-hang in the rear.

I'm pretty sure that the bed platform will be more than sufficient to hold it up through the first half of it. And the cabinet structure should be fine to keep it in place on the left side. Just not quite sure about the right side in the back, where the seat is at.

I suspect that it will all depend on how it's tied into the rear wall.

Sorry it took so long to get on here and answer as I've been doing this on my phone and hate doing a lengthy answer on it. On the trim it is around 3 bucks a running foot but is uv stable and easy to cut and lay out on the camper. If you go that route I've been using polyurethane pl premium but on a foamy I'd just say go with GG and enjoy the easier cleanup over the pl premium.

As a suggestion I'd say go out to 6 1/2 to 7' on the width of the upper portion to give lots of bed room/head room. I have an almost completed truck model I built with this kind of layout and is 8' long and only a 6" overhand and had to brace it due to sagging of the overhand in the middle. Of all the ones I've built, I'd say going wider is always more beneficial than going longer and you can do 6" front and rear and add a foot and not have to brace anything it works just fine to make a 9' cabin and stay with your existing trailer with no mods needed on the trailer itself.