Newbie Looking Leaning Towards a Foamie (My Question Thread)

[KCStudly]

Hmm, and I did just have my eyes checked, too.

[jseyfert3]

The more expensive one sign states " for use with treated wood "

I noticed that but didn't know what it means. Does treated wood react with the galvanization, or it is simply because treated wood is only used where it's exposed to more water, so the bracket needs more protection?

Just a hunch...

Look at the edges of the galv'd ones. I suspect you will see that the edges also have galv. on them as if they were plated after stamping and forming. If this is the case I would use them.

If the edges are raw that means that the part was stamped out of galv. sheet stock and they did nothing to treat the edges. In the later case you will get rust from the untreated edges.

The "gold" may be a zinc chromate plating (or something inspired to look like it). If the galv. ones are raw on the edges this second treatment is probably the OEM's way of solving the rusty edge problem.

It would appear that they have been stamped out of galvanized sheet stock. It's hard to get a good picture of the edge, but it doesn't appear galvanized.

Non-Galvanized Edge? by jseyfert3, on Flickr

Also I noticed it has a continuous run sticker, cut off at the edges randomly and with holes missing where they punched it. This would imply that it was stamped from stock containing the sticker already, as obviously they couldn't be dipped in molten zinc with a sticker (and still have said sticker).

Continuous Run Sticker by jseyfert3, on Flickr

So, get the gold coat ones? Although looking at my previous picture (which was mainly for a price comparison reminder), I notice the gold ones have the same holes in the labels, like it was punched after the sticker was applied as well.

I'll stop by one of the stores (Lowe's, HD, or Mendards) later today when I'm out and about and take a closer look at them.

[GPW]

You need so few, get the Best ones to do the job , and last !!!

[KCStudly]

I think, more to the point, if either are not finished on the edges, you will probably want to paint them.

I would go with the regular galvy, give them a good wash in soapy water to remove residue, install, then blast them with spray bomb (aerosol spray paint in disposable can).

[jseyfert3]

I think, more to the point, if either are not finished on the edges, you will probably want to paint them.

I would go with the regular galvy, give them a good wash in soapy water to remove residue, install, then blast them with spray bomb (aerosol spray paint in disposable can).

What about the edges under the screws? Is that not as big an issue, since water would have a harder time getting in, or more, since it can't get out as easy if it gets in? I guess paint would help cover the edges of the screws. Probably best to get a cheap HF spray gun for my compressor as I want the trailer painted black, just do the whole thing at once.

Which makes me wonder about all those holes I drilled to relocate the axle. None of the edges of the holes are painted, and I already bolted everything up. Could that become an issue in the long run?

I know rust can't be stopped completely (without constant and very careful maintenance anyway), so am I just over thinking this entire thing about rust? I mean, there is salt here, but I doubt I'll do a lot of camping in winter when it's being used, and besides road spray, most of the steel trailer will be sheltered under the teardrop itself.

[KCStudly]

Suit yourself. If it will bug you fix it, if you want to get on with it, build on.

Sounds like you have a pretty good grasp of the situation.

You could get crazy detailing every part (lord knows I do), but I would be reluctant to recommend that as a normal habit, lest you spend two years (like me) building and still not have a roof on your cabin... let alone the cabin attached to the trailer... and have never slept in it.

[jseyfert3]

Suit yourself. If it will bug you fix it, if you want to get on with it, build on.

Sounds like you have a pretty good grasp of the situation.

You could get crazy detailing every part (lord knows I do), but I would be reluctant to recommend that as a normal habit, lest you spend two years (like me) building and still not have a roof on your cabin... let alone the cabin attached to the trailer... and have never slept in it.

You raise some very good points. Your teardrop is awesome looking, but I don't have the patience or skills to get that detailed, and I want this to be sleep-able by the end of March. Yeah, that doesn't seem that far off to me, either...

Still, from what I've seen, it looks like these foamies can go together pretty fast...if I stop worrying over all these little details.

Speaking of details, stopping by Menard's after dropping my girlfriend off at her place, I took a second look at the gold hurricane ties. The edges are not coated, so I see no use it paying 2x the galvanized ones.

Gold Coat Hurricane Tie Uncoated Edge by jseyfert3, on Flickr

At Lowe's earlier with my GF (I live less then 3 miles from Lowe's, HD, and Menards), I found another possible bracket. This one looks like a good choice for the center tie where the axle mount comes half way up the outside of the side rail, but is shorter so it would provide a little less support to the 1x4, as well as more expensive.

Another possible bracket by jseyfert3, on Flickr

Having said all that, and taking into consideration your advise, I've got a new plan. Keep moving forward, working on something each day if possible, unless something seems really wrong (which I doubt would happen...I just worry about it happening too much). I will of course continue to research, but I'll try not to research to death like I have a tendency of doing and try to keep pushing forward. I'll use the galvanized hurricane ties and once they are all on the (assembled) trailer, I'll by a $20 air sprayer from HF, a quart or two of Rustoleum gloss black enamel paint and spray the entire trailer black at once, or at least the brackets and anywhere the trailer will be visible. (would be fairly pointless to spray the steel crossbeams or the insides of the side C-rails, for example).

And for tonight, in addition starting the final bolting together of the frame, I have a test. The piece of crossbeam I cut off earlier, the hurricane tie, #10 x 3/4" SS self drilling screws, a 9/64" drill bit, and a hex driver. On the final assembly, I'll also put a little threadlocker on each screw.

IMG_4767 by jseyfert3, on Flickr

So...time to go. My build thread should have an update sometime later tonight.

[Corwin C]

Just FYI on the hurricane brackets. The zinc coating on any galvanized metal will react with some of the residual chemicals in pressure treated wood. The "gold" brackets are simply using a corrosion inhibitor other than zinc or at least putting a secondary layer between the pressure treated wood and the zinc. Also, zinc protects the steel by acting as a sacrificial anode to prevent corrosion. It will protect bare steel for a considerable distance, so scratches and other defects in the finish do not compromise the protective qualities. The untreated edges of the stamped metal are still protected by the zinc on the two faces. I have seen these brackets that are hot-dipped which would be the ultimate in protection because of the thickness of the zinc coating.

[jseyfert3]

Just FYI on the hurricane brackets. The zinc coating on any galvanized metal will react with some of the residual chemicals in pressure treated wood. The "gold" brackets are simply using a corrosion inhibitor other than zinc or at least putting a secondary layer between the pressure treated wood and the zinc. Also, zinc protects the steel by acting as a sacrificial anode to prevent corrosion. It will protect bare steel for a considerable distance, so scratches and other defects in the finish do not compromise the protective qualities. The untreated edges of the stamped metal are still protected by the zinc on the two faces. I have seen these brackets that are hot-dipped which would be the ultimate in protection because of the thickness of the zinc coating.

Good to know. Thank you!

[GPW]

If the brackets are on the inside of the frame , wouldn’t all that be undercoated anyway ???

[KCStudly]

Geep, the flat side of the frame faces out, so that is where the ties need to go. C-channel.

[GPW]

Oh !!! I see now, C channel , I was thinking box channel .. so might you’d paint that eh ? .. over the galv. Hmmm? Just as much as you’d want to protect the timbers, so the plates too eh ?

[GPW]

OK, what about a thorough spray of undercoating before installation ? We’ve found with things sitting out in the weather , corrosion sets in eventually and so some type of protection must be applied , now or later ... admittedly I do live in a very WET environment , which hastens this process... so some type of coating is mandatory here if you want any metal to last ...
Besides if you sprayed them black , they’d look Cool too ...

[jseyfert3]

OK, what about a thorough spray of undercoating before installation ? We’ve found with things sitting out in the weather , corrosion sets in eventually and so some type of protection must be applied , now or later ... admittedly I do live in a very WET environment , which hastens this process... so some type of coating is mandatory here if you want any metal to last ...
Besides if you sprayed them black , they’d look Cool too ...

Undercoating, or just paint. I really wanted to avoid any use of the nasty undercoating sh** if I could help it. Unless it can be thinned and ran through a air gun, that is, then I guess it could be okay.

Did that test using 9/64" pilot holes. The screws did the slightest amount of self-drilling, probably just widening the hole slightly. Then they went straight in. Won't take nearly as long as all the 7/16" holes I drilled to move the trailer frame, 9/64" holes don't take long, and don't need to be step drilled, and then using a separate drill to drive the screws in only takes seconds per screw.

Backside - Plenty of Thread for Thicker Areas by jseyfert3, on Flickr


Srewed Tie with Driver Used by jseyfert3, on Flickr

I set the drill's clutch to 15, the highest it went before locking. Seems to secure the screws tight enough, definitely a long way before stripping though. I know cause I took a small wrench to see how tight they were, and afterwards I tightened with the wrench until one stripped. The frame steel stripped, not the screw.

Screw After Stripping Hole by jseyfert3, on Flickr


Stripped Hole by jseyfert3, on Flickr

Anyway, should be a very easy way to attach the 1x4's to the trailer frame.

[jseyfert3]

Got this on another forum (motorcycles) I hang out on.

On many farm trailers, (hay wagons are a prime example) I use heavy chain to secure wooden bodies to steel chassis. The reason being is that the steel frame will flex a bit while in use. By allowing the body of the trailer to float a bit, this should help keep things from breaking.

Also, wood expands and contracts at a much greater rate than metal. It should be allowed to move a bit. I suspect that bolting it down will lead to warping, loosening of the bolts and poor long term durability. I'd just use wooden blocks to prevent the body from moving fore/aft and side to side and the chain to keep it from lifting off.

BTW, I'm NOT an expert in the department. FWIW. I don't even play a doctor on TV. YMMV.

Made me pause to think a little. Not sure how much of an issue it'll be. Need to think about it, I picked up 10 of those brackets and was thinking about installing them later tonight.