Plan drawings, notes in Open Office .PDF

[Werdahekrwe]

Bob, you are my kind of guy. When I was carrying mail I came home with WORKING washers, driers, attic exhaust fans (used that one in the house I built 40 yrs ago), etc. Got to keep your ideas in mind. Must say people on this board are helpful beyond belief. I even found an artist to help with the artwork for the logo for the "FOAM DUCK" here on the board. Guess I have to work with the HF frame for now, though, since I have already put out the money for it. But if you, or anyone else, has helpful ideas, feel free to send them my way. Thanks again.

[bobhenry]

OK if ya gotta !

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=42230&p=787592

you might look close at wood butchers build. He is a great guy and will help as he can just PM him !

[Werdahekrwe]

GPW, she said go right ahead and refine away.

[GPW]

Thanks I’ll do my best ...

[Werdahekrwe]

Wife says when I think, I use to much oxygen But here goes: been trying to figure out best way to go on the roof for the "DUCK". Looking at my original idea of raising the entire roof, as per original plan, or just one end for headroom at entry and galley. Wife and I are both under 5'5", but quite a few of our friends and relatives are 5'10"+. Our son-in-law to be is 6'. Looking for opions about the best way to "raise the roof". Any 'votes' either way?

[GPW]

Werd, I’d just build to suit myself and everyone else can just DUCK ....

[OP827]

Raising roof makes the build more complicated, more time, and depending on particular design may require another level of the walls/structure rigidity and precision in the build. There are many good builds on this forum with lifting roofs: boxcar is a good example. I would guess that it can make the build several times longer due to multiple panels to build separately vs. normal walls and roof, plus the considerations of panels movement during transport, camping, and weather seals. I myself is building a folding trailer and now I got an idea what is involved.

[Werdahekrwe]

GPW, you are too much. Or should I say "quack, quack".

[Werdahekrwe]

New notes and corrections for "The Foam Duck"
I made a few "oop"s in my first notes for the "Duck"-guess it proves the DW wrong - I am just a mere mortal after all. So now I'll try to correct my "mistakes" .
1. "Framing", such as it is, will be, mostly 2x2. All framing intersections reinforced with 2x4 glued and screwed to 2x4 angled gussets, except in the floor. All "voids" to filled with 1.5" insulation board covered with latex paint and cloth (probably sheets from a local hospital) Inside: probably 1/8" hardboard, 1/4" plywood or luan painted white to make it seem larger.
2. Widows, Hmmm? Still looking into them.
3. Door: 24x60 (planned), of 1.5" foam board, framed with 2x2's, with 11" total drop step inside, 16x24" wide, with a 5.5" mid-step. Probably use residential lockset.
4. Galley/closet, storage cabinets and bench/beds act as "stiffeners" to strengthen walls and reduce flexing. Both beds expandable to form a "camper king/queen. One side (for DW) will have tilt up end so she can sleep better due to back and breathing problems.
5. Top: 2x4 frame with 2x2 rafters/joists, on 16 centers, filled with 1.5" foam boards, covered with latex painted sheets (ala sides), with 1x2 purlins (on ctr with rafters) with metal roof screwed on.
6. Small (about 5" or 6") fan mounted in forward ceiling to exhaust air into space between top and roof @ front of trailer. For safety, to prevent buildup of CO (carbon monoxide) there will be no inner or outer cover over on this fan, since it is protected from weather by the metal roof.
7. Upper walls also of 1.5" foam, covered with paint/cloth, framed with 1x2's, each in 2 pcs, 6ft long (tot 12ft). Total slope 4" (2'2" front, 1'10" back). Held in place with barrel bolts. Front and back upper walls use same construction. Front measures 2'2"x6'5"; back 1'10"x6'5" (reduce length by 2" if width 6'6").
8. All 110vac wiring 12-2 w gnd. Main breaker box (in "nose cone") 30 a main; 4 - 20a circuits:
(A) Street side: 1 gfci @ galley, outside outlet, refrigerator, Rt. Storage unit outlet, outlet in Right side of cabinet beneath AC unit.
(B) Curb side: 1 gfci @ galley, outside outlet, Left storage cabinet, outlet in Left side of A/C cabinet;
(C) GFCI outlet @ galley cabinet, below counter for small electric heater; A/C (outlet beneath A/C), outlet in closet for TV;.
(D) GFCI outlet in "nose cone" for Battery Tender Plus" to charge 18aH battery from power wheelchair, for interior lighting (via switch arrangement to allow dual voltage usage) and 12v auto radio w weather band. All 12v circuits fused through auto type fuse block.
Not to brag, but after having the electrician who passed our home wiring for insurance tell me that everyone should wire the way I did (a little overkill), I decided to apply that to the "Duck" too. 20A circuits on 12/w gnd since the appliances can draw 15a each,
9. 2-6ft wire shelf units (similar to Closetmaid), for in camp light storage, attached to upper walls via hanger brackets and brass "support chains" to allow for removal when setting up/breaking camp. Unless DW wants upper bunks in case we take a couple of g-kids, in which case the lights (discussed below) will be attached to the upper wall panels.
10. Interior lighting: 3 IKEA "Ledberg" 36" LED strip lights w 110vac transformers and switches; mounted on 1" cove or quarter round molding and attached to wire shelving (see above) and aimed toward white ceiling, for indirect lighting of interior.
11. Floor of 1x3 (may use 2x2) framing , 3/4 (1-1/2" if I use 1-1/4" screws) insulation board and 1/4" plywood. 3 top layers with joints staggered @ 16", 48", 48", 32" [layer a]; 32" 48", 48", 16" [layer b]; 48”, 48” , 48” [layer c]. The bottom of the floor will be the same as layer c, like the top layer. All plywood will be both glued and screwed to the floor framing and glued to insulation board, or to the layer beneath it, thus creating a "unified, or bonded unit" similar to the floor in FHA approved prefab homes (1/2" ply, top and bottom, glued and stapled to 2x4 joists, on 24" centers. VERY strong and stable. I have seen spinet pianos on these floors, with no sagging). The bottom will be undercoated, and then the entire assembly will be bolted to the trailer frame with carriage bolts, which will not be counter sunk, since they will be within the bench/beds and closet/galley areas. The floor assembly will be covered with roll flooring, similar to Armstrong "SOLARIAN", which will only be applied in "visible" areas. Walls glued and screwed to floor.
12. An AM/FM/CD/w weather band radio will be installed either in the galley cabinet, or in left storage cabinet, w speakers in the front corners of the bench/beds. I may also add an outside connection for external speakers.
13. TV set on "hard shelf" of 3/4" built-up ply, ala floor, above closet. Wire shelf with a hanger rod in closet. Closet also has room for porta-potti.
14. All "utility" connections (electric, water, sink drain, and TV cable) on street side non-hinged panel of nose cone. Radio antenna will probably be centered on top non-hinged panel. Mast for TV antenna also on same side panel. Note: Since the non-hinged side panels of the nose cone are nearly 18" wide, there should be plenty of room for all connections. Also electric connection isolated and protected from Water connections by isolating them with either aluminum or plastic shields.
15. Closet/potti area has a PVC framed "soft door" (idea from PINTEREST) with a nice fabric over the frame and a 2nd swing out "privacy panel" to create a changing area. Galley will have "curtains" to match "soft door", in place of doors, for the sake of weight.
16. Possible "plastic" hinge on 'nose cone' since it offers possibly better water control (no gaps like a piano hinge).
17. Since we actually camp where there is electricity at least 99% of the time, there will be no propane "tank" or cook top, as such. We normally use a couple of electric skillets and griddles. We'll use a 2 burner "outside" cook top with 1# "tanks", if we do cook with gas Also lighter, a saving about 50# with no inside gas or plumbing.
18. Should we camp in cool weather (spring or fall in WV can be a beautiful time, if a little cool) we have a small 1500 watt electric heater with a "tip over" safety switch for heat. However, in a rig this small and as well insulated as it should be, we probably won't need much additional heat.
19. Spare tire (won't travel without one) either under floor or in nose.
20. There will be a logo on the “nose cone”, and back of “DUCK”, in memory of both mine and the wife's Dads.

New drawings to follow.

Don't like WIN 10. Nearly trashed my PC. Then MS wanted $47.99 to tell me how to get rid of it. NOT,

[OP827]

Wife says when I think, I use to much oxygen But here goes: been trying to figure out best way to go on the roof for the "DUCK". Looking at my original idea of raising the entire roof, as per original plan, or just one end for headroom at entry and galley. Wife and I are both under 5'5", but quite a few of our friends and relatives are 5'10"+. Our son-in-law to be is 6'. Looking for opions about the best way to "raise the roof". Any 'votes' either way?

I may have missed how big of a trailer you plan to build. If it is only for a couple, this one may is very interesting and quite novel and great for its build simplicity - http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=56232&sid=9dd453d12c3467757ef0abdb308239cc#p1019547

[Werdahekrwe]

Primarily for DW and SELF. Can have two bunks added above the bench/beds in the dinette area. I finally got the HF 1780 trailer assembled. Just need to get it "squared" and get the axle cleaned and greased too. A friend is going to help me add the tongue extension. Will also have a "ramp" which will swing down to allow access for DW, who has parkinsons and myesthinia gravis. We have our 2010 Wildwood 26bhxl for sale ($7500) because it is very hard for her to entiter and exit it. Plus the fact that our Silverado was destroyed when a young man came through our front yard sideways at 110mph and struck it broadside. He was killed instantly, unfortunately. The impact was so violent that the shockwave from the impact cracked our living room picture window. Thus the design for the "Foam Duck". GPW is helping me with the artwork for the 'memorial' logo for the front and back.

[GPW]

It should be ready when you are ...

[Werdahekrwe]

Thanks GPW.

[Werdahekrwe]

Seems like everyone on this board is always sorta saying "If you have an idea, throw it out, and we will give you all the feedback we can." So here goes.

I have been tossing around the idea of a "duck tail" on the FOAM DUCK. Got the idea from watching the big rigs and seeing their "Trailer Tails." Now I am not planning on something that folds against the back of the "DUCK". I am thinking of tapering the last 1 foot of the sides and top (and maybe even the bottom) "in" about 30 degrees. Seems to me it might help with both handling and fuel mileage. This will involve the lift top only in that it would be shortened to 11 feet, with a removable "gutter" along the back to minimize rain runoff on the rear of the unit, and the window AC, and chances of runoff going forward and running down into the "cabin" space, as it were. I have also decided there will be NO gas cooktop, or any propane at all for that matter, since we virtually always camp where there is ample 110V hookups. And fire and foam do NOT mix well.

And since it looks like, according to the "Old Farmer's Almanac", we just might have a real "Mountaineer" winter, I will probably have plenty of time for the final planning and might get a LITTLE work done on it.

BTW, keep the DW (Erma) in your prayers and thoughts. She had a TRIPLE bypass in June, then she had to have another heart cath earlier this month. She is having a problem with high blood pressure in one chamber of her heart, the cardio Dr (who is arguably the best in West Virginia) is confident the problem can be handled with meds. However, if push comes to shove, they may have to put in a pace maker later.
We will have made it to FORTY-NINE years and 10 months on Oct 10. And we have never discussed divorce. Murder - often. It is cheaper and does not require papers for dividing things up. Really, just joking. We love each other "to the moon and bac." And like I told her, what woman, in her right (or left) mind would try to retrain me now.
Till later. Looking forward to your feedback. And as the beloved "Red" Skelton said at the end of every show: "God Bless."

[OP827]

Here is what I learned. 10-15 degrees seems to be a known maximum angle to work for aerodynamics to maintain an air flow without separation from the surface at a highway speed. 30 degrees may not likely increase your mileage or stability as the airflow would separate and start flopping at the point where the 30 degree angle starts. Sharp, not rounded back edges actually improve aerodynamics and stability by creating a cleaner air flow separation at the back with less air flow flopping.

Andrew (angib) had some good posts on the aerodynamics topic. Here is some discussion - http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=49036&start=30#p942469
The above topic inspired my build, I also had some discussion on aerodynamics on my trailer build thread at some point.

Sorry for your wife health issues, I wish her get well sooner.

Cheers and thanks for the jokes, it made me laugh.