Camp Capsule Foamy

[OP827]

Thanks for the update! Good to know.

[GPW]

ScottE ... Only one word we can say … Very very COOL !!!

Amanda , thinking of that second one already ? ( don’t worry , it’s normal !!! ) … I wouldn’t mind making one like ScottE’s and on one of these utility trailers which we talked about for a long time …

[greaper007]

Great build. Could you tell me what the size of the original trailer chassis was?

Thanks.

[ScottE]

Sorry this took so long... The original trailer is a 5' X 8' landscape trailer from Lowe's that I got on sale. I removed the ramp (and sold it on Craigslist), and put on a 1' longer tongue. I also added a 2' receiver to the new tongue to match my other trailers.

[Dutch56]

Scott, beautiful workmanship! I was in the process of drawing out plans for a squarebacked benroy. My Bride saw that this was a standby and basically said "That's what I want!" One thing I've learned in 40 years of marriage is the truism " Happy wife, happy life!"

What are your over all dimensions? My son has the plans to build me a 5 X 10 utility trailer that has the side rails like yours. I have taken note of your comment to situate the mattress so one doesn't have to climb over the other to greet in and out bed.

Thanks for sharing this!

Dutch

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk

[ScottE]

Just returned from a smoky trip to the high sierras and thought I'd post a Camp Capsule foamy update. The smoke from the various wildfires burning on the western slope of the sierras made parts of the trip pretty nasty! My Subaru Forester got an average of 16 mpg towing on the 1K+ mile trip from San Diego up the 395 to the Lee Vining/Bridgeport area, maintaining a 55 mph average speed. The small size/weight of the trailer made it possible to get into some very nice wilderness areas with no problems. The exterior is holding up very well and I have no faded or weathered spots (great Behr paint!) There are no interior cracks or leaks and the temperature stayed very comfortable during the <40 degree nights.


Using the foam/canvas construction method is proving to be a very robust and durable solution to building a roomy, lightweight alternative to the expensive alternatives now on the market. If you're thinking of building one, Do It! You won't be disappointed!

[GPW]

Quote: “ Using the foam/canvas construction method is proving to be a very robust and durable solution to building a roomy, lightweight alternative to the expensive alternatives now on the market. If you're thinking of building one, Do It! You won't be disappointed! “


I’m certainly Glad you said that !!!

[OP827]

Foam is great! Thanks for sharing the experience!

[JamesDixonLR]

If you said, forgive me for asking, but what did you skin the interior with? Canvas on the outside, what is inside? thanks

[Nodrog]

delete

[ScottE]

I used canvas on the interior walls and old bed sheet material inside cupboards and in tight spaces. The wheels are 12" that came standard on the landscape trailer used. The wheel bearings should be checked/greased frequently because they rotate more times per mile than larger wheels. I was skeptical using 12" wheels in the beginning but they seem to be holding up well (these wheel bearings are also made in the USA so their quality is superior to the Harbor Freight Chinese units!).

[LostCajun]

What do I think about your Build?

I am almost tempted to build a copy without a single change...

I have the same trailer almost, I have the TSC version, which has the closed back fenders and comes with 13" wheels, I am looking to add diagonals to the single pull tube and probably will do the extension also.

Have you given more thought to just how you might build to make it removable? Maybe angle iron skids on lower side walls and narrow plate down center? or I thought maybe pickup bed camper style corner jacks along with bracing necessary to lift it? Either way would add quite a bit a weight, and it might be just more cost efficient to just buy another used trailer. But, since I live in an RV to start with....the number of trailers and vehicles is just an important consideration for me.

I did see your floor dimensions on another post, copied them already, but I didn't see the interior height dimensions, did they come out to your original specs? Would you build to the same height again? I can duplicate your width and length I believe without problems, but, because of my tow vehicle I don't want to build as high, would love to have the height, but think I can get away with a lot less.

Time to get started building the floor tub...thanks for sharing your great build.

Craig

[ScottE]

Hi
My interior dimensions came pretty close to original specs, ~5' 10" height over table and ~6' 2" in kitchen/bathroom area, and it's perfect for my wife and I. The added tongue length really made the weight/balance perfect (IMHO), as the trailer maneuvers and tracks beautifully. If you choose to make your trailer body removable, it would be simple to make a "pigtail" wiring harness that you could plug into the original trailer harness near the hitch area. Be sure to use quality wire in your harness as cheap trailer wiring harnesses (Harbor Freight type), use crappy wire that is easily crimped/chaffed and broken! You'll also have to consider the gray water system tank/plumbing connection, if you intend to remove the body. A simple hose connection could easily be made using old garden hose (flexible/cheap.)
Have Fun and I think you'll be impressed with the end result!

[LostCajun]

Hi ScottE,

Good to see your reply...

I am getting ready to post a new 'build' thread, as I have been building up my supplies, I have a few sheets of foam 2" and 1" (time to experiment), I have a gallon of gripper, a gal of TBII and couple sheets of 3/4" ply, and even picked up a handful of Tnuts (haven't used them before).....also got the Kreg Jig knockoff at the Harbor....picked up some clearance muslin and some clearance twill fabric and I even got some clearance fiber glass screen......and much more.....basically.....the way I tackle any project is to get a little of everything I need to see if I can do 'any' specific task a certain way.....then after proof of concept... I get the rest.....

I am wrestling with the 'removable' concept.....I just found 'late' last night an image from 'GPS' from the way back.....

I am working with the idea of 'placing' some amount of additional 3/4" at the upper rail level (making 2 layers of 3/4") to brace for lifting.....image to follow in 'build' thread.....I am not an engineer.....and I have cognitive issues with complex 'multi level' thinking.....in recent years.....so I will be looking for ideas as I work through this for a little while.....I can't let it delay my build.....as I am beyond my expiration date.....time is of the essence....

I have been searching for others ideas on this concept and not finding much.....I did find the one with the external legs......but I think if using his method, weight and cost would become an issue for me....

I am thinking about extending the 'box' beyond the rear end of the trailer.....6" or a 12" enough to place two pads at the corners to start the 'lift' and removable process......then it would be just having enough bracing and eligible spots for two lift pads in the front of the box.....

I am wondering if spanning the front a couple of feet with 3/4" double over the top rail would allow lifting of the box by the front 'wings'.....

And then how to make it 'slide'......thinking about very thin angle on the bottom two sides and a flat strip in the center 'at the least'.....and then 'simplifying the 'tie down process'......I don't want twenty or more bolt to remove.

Plenty to do, looks like building the 'tub' is first order of business.....

thanks for the reply

Craig

[ScottE]

Hi Craig,
I would be careful extending beyond the original trailer dimensions due to the issue of overhang.. when you go through dips and uneven terrain, that would increase the likelihood of dragging on the ground (not a lot of ground clearance already with the small wheels!) This trailer is very strong in it's current form and I believe that making the "tub" removable is reasonable, if you tie the body to the trailer frame in key places, to retain the strength of the trailer's steel frame. I would be bolting the body to the frame in all 4 corners, as well as at least 2 more places on each side and the front width span and the top rails. I believe that that would keep things working together to resist flex and vibration.

Things I would change from my present design are few but there are some (as I've mentioned before):
- I would design the beds longer as separate bed units so sleepers don't have to crawl over one another at night.
- I would not use the weld on corner jacks, portable T jacks work well when needed and they're lighter!
- I would forego the bag toilet and just use a 5 gallon portable chemical toilet. Much less hassle and easily dumped into a regular toilet or outhouse (no one likes using the bags or the fact that they go into trash dumpsters)
- Lengthening the tongue was the best modification I mage to the base trailer, the handling on the road is superb.
- The side windows are large and have lots of surface area when the temperature outside is extreme (one way or the other.) I'll be cutting foil backed foam insulation to fit inside the window frames for those very cold nights. You do need to keep a window in the back cracked open a bit at night to keep the condensation on the inside under control. There is almost no thermal transfer through the walls or ceiling (insulation, duh!), but the plywood tub could be insulated for those who really need the cold weather protection.

Your plan to try/test things out as you go is exactly how I started out on this project and I encourage you to go for it. The process of designing/building things like this is, in my humble opinion, the most fun ever!
Good Luck and never hesitate to reach out to the fine members of this forum, they/we have made lots of mistakes that will be eagerly shared with folks who actually do something instead of just dreaming/talking about it, until it's too late!