Thrifty Alternatives ..Building Foam Campers

[Hamilton Felix]

Those diesel heaters look interesting. I think using the camper will teach us what we need. We do have Wiggy's bags and a Wiggy's comforter we use on our king size bed in winter, so we definitely will not be sleeping cold.

I looked a bit at the Bug Out Trailers YouTube, especially appreciated the list of materials. I'm thinking Glidden Gripper to stick canvas to foam. I believe I already have some suitable exterior latex finish paint in my shop. Was thinking a big bottle of original Gorilla Glue for foam to foam, but that caulking gun tube of Gorilla construction adhesive looks more handy. I assume one still puts glue on one surface and wets the other one a bit..?

A very long time ago, I was an "airport brat" (for me, flying was prop starting a 1946 Aeronca Champion, while my mother, the Flight Instructor, sat inside at the controls), and I appreciate the pretty aerodynamic shape of a traditional teardrop. But I think a box with slightly sloped ends is a good place for a beginner to start.

I'm thinking just build everything with 2" foam and canvas. Wanting the flatbed trailer and the camper separate is a strike against me on weight. That Jayco frame is 6'6" wide. If I deck that and stretch to 10' long, that would be 190 lbs. of 3/4" plywood, using the 57 lb. per cubic foot figure I read here. Maybe I can cheat and go a tiny bit thinner, but not much - or maybe not deck to full width, and trim frame width, because I only need 5"4" (5' interior width on camper). I was thinking the foamie camper should have at least a thin piece of plywood on top of the foam floor, so we don't dent it. Suppose we could get away with 1/4" or so. I was thinking just wrap canvas and put no wood on exterior underside because it will sit on the trailer's plywood. But I'm wondering about the foamie when it sits on sawhorses while removed from the trailer. And I'm wondering about whether I want air circulation between the camper floor and the trailer. Will I want some thin wood on the exterior underside to protect it? Should I make that floor a minimal "sandwich?"

So many ideas. Gotta start by cleaning up that frame and weighing it. Then measure back spacing on desired wheels a second time. Then start shopping for a torsion axle...

Do I want to buy doors, or just cut them out of the foam and add minimal wood framing to attach hinges and latches? Commercial doors cost money, but are nice, and can have easily opened screened windows in them.

Can I cement a plexiglas skylight directly into the front sloping roof?

If I want rear access for stored gear, should I make a hatch with a hurricane hinge at the top?

I'd almost talked myself into a Fantastic Fan roof vent, but my wife, who grew up in Gulf Coastal South Texas but has been here long enough to really appreciate the rain, is lobbying for side vents located as high as possible. The odds of leakage are much lower.

Life is just FULL of choices.

I certainly wouldn't turn down an original SJ Cherokee, especially the wide track offroad version, if someone gave me one.

[ghcoe]

There are a lot of choices with a foamie. My first took me 3 years to build. Bit off a lot at one time. Turned out better than I had expected so that is good. Good luck on your plans. George.

[Hamilton Felix]

Well, the stripped Jayco seems to be about 330 lbs. with 20% on the tongue. Heavier than I'd hoped, but less than it could be. There's a LONG way to go.

[GPW]

330 lbs. That’s not that bad at all !!! And JMHO , I don’t believe anybody needs a 3/4” plywood floor … We recently installed a wooden Board floor on the FoamStream , and I like it a lot … I was considering some Cedar fence boards for a lightweight floor … especially if attached to all that metal trailer frame … That is unless you’re going to dance and jump up and down on it …
I recently ( last week) bought some cheap 3/4” ply for a shelf project ( on the right) and I swear it must have been~ 80 lbs… I could barely move a sheet around by myself ... I still don’t like plywood for floors … Just me ...

[John61CT]

I agree.

Want to try one day, greenhouse plastic bench panels.

Can be filled with pourable 2-part foam for insulation and canvassed foamie-style for greater rigidity (tensile), protect the plastic from chipping.

Underside maybe epoxied, and/or a sheet of luan?

Needs cross beams on 18" or 24" centers depending on brand, design so the aluminum profiles supporting do not protrude higher than the top surface of the bench material.

Super light for load-bearing strength, which will be spread also by the mattress above, maybe also a lino layer?

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[Hamilton Felix]

That plastic grid looks interesting.

From what I've read here, some sort of wood covering on a foam floor is necessary to prevent denting from knees, etc. But I would think no more than 1/4" plywood, bonded to the fabric covered foam, would do it.

I was thinking to skip any wood on the underside, because I want to set the camper on the trailer, which well have some sort of floor. But I'll have to be careful with storage of the camper when it's not sitting on a flat floor. Maybe it needs some sort of hard skin on the underside.

Looking at that Jayco frame, I'm not sure how skimpy I can go, and still be able to safely haul a riding mower or similar load. There are some pretty good gaps. BTW, that off center flat strip running the length of the frame is not structural. It's just Jayco's joining point for standard width pieces of plywood floor.

[GPW]

Ham , With all thst crossbracing I’d think a foam and thin ply floor would work … There is the wall to floor attachment issue …. I’m sure we’ll get to that shortly …

[rjgimp]

Hey, I read the entire thread! Now to start absorbing build threads.

Congratulations! Welcome to the nuthouse.

I was going to turn the Jayco frame into a flatbed suitable for hauling a riding mower (but not much more). Now I’m thinking a foamie I can set onto the flatbed or remove when not camping.

That's a fine plan. Here's a build thread from a guy who is doing that very thing.

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=71430

Those diesel heaters look interesting.

They are very slick. Atomic77 put one in the Astroliner (at around page 90 in his build thread) and loves it. They are also fairly common in semi tractor sleeper berths. viewtopic.php?f=50&t=61140&start=1350

[Hamilton Felix]

I’m hoping that a 2” thick foamie will require minimal heating or cooling. But I’m sure this will be a learning experience.

I’m narrowing the frame to match the foamie I plan, will lengthen a bit before I’m done. New axle will go where the old one was, but wheels will be farther apart. Tonight I confirmed that the foamie “pod” I plan will fit into my F250, if the tailgate is down and I support it higher than the fender wells in the bed.

I see that manufactured doors are EXPENSIVE. I’m thinking DIY doors from foam.

But I do need ventilation.

So much to learn. But it is fun.

[Hamilton Felix]

Bit of weirdness here: When I visit TNTTT with my iPad, my avatar is upside down. But when I use a PC, it’s right side up.

[KCStudly]

For a slide in, whether or not fully skinning the bottom with ply, I would use a couple, 3 or 4 hard wood skegs, or runners attached to the bottom of the floor. This would not only promote aeration to help dry any moisture that might get trapped under the cabin, but would also reduce the surface area and friction, making it easier to slide the cabin in and out. If using pipe rollers to aid in sliding in and out, the hard runners would also keep the point load on the roller pipes from denting into the foam.

[Hamilton Felix]

That's a good idea. I was also toying with the idea of either lifting eyes at the top corners, or grab handles lower down on the corners.

[John61CT]

Insulation only slows down equalizing with outside ambient temps.

Makes the use of active heating or cooling much more energy efficient.

But not magic.

Magic is travelling to follow the 60's.

For ventilation, MaxxAir or Fantastic Fan.

[Hamilton Felix]

Thanks. I have read a bit about Fantastic Fan. I will look into Maxxair.
Still wondering if I really want a ceiling vent, or just side vents mounted as high as possible.

[John61CT]

You need active ventilation, high CFM for when needed.

Where / how you mount it, up to you, best if the intakes are opposite the outgo in more ways than one.

Fridge, stove, batteries should be taken into account so all needs are accommodated synergistically.