Thrifty Alternatives ..Building Foam Campers

Canvas covered foamies (Thrifty Alternatives...)

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Postby GPW » Wed Apr 13, 2011 5:17 am

Gosh , I missed that Auntie ... so what was rattling ???
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Postby eaglesdare » Wed Apr 13, 2011 5:42 am

hmmm i must have missed that part also. the only thing for sure is that we think we know where the sound comes from and hopefully we can correct it. we have not done the adjustments yet.

thank you miriam.
Louella
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Postby GPW » Wed Apr 13, 2011 8:22 am

Eagle , would you please give us your opinion of the strength of the TD , now that its essentially "done" ...
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Postby eaglesdare » Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:19 am

oh i think its pretty dam umm i mean darn strong.
now on mine i have the 2" foam, then a layer of full strenght glue, then the canvas. on top of that i have a coat of diluted glue. then a coat of primer and 2 coats of paint. that is the outside.
the roof is the same except for the thickness of foam which is 1" there.

i have the spars running sides ways. i will have to go count how many i actually have. also there is a piece of wood that runs front to back. the purpose for that was just incase someone leans on it, that foam over time will not go anywhere. and a bulkhead 1/2 wall.

i have leaned full force on it, i have given it a few good wacks. but i have not taken a hammer to it and i have not stood ontop. but i have tought about that as i was painting the roof. it was solid.

if you do your seams right no water is going to get under them. mine are not going to leak. but they aren't pretty. so all in due time, cosmetics will take place.

i have a bunk bed in there for a child. hubby is afraid though that they might kick out in their sleep and put a hole in the foam. right now, he might be right, because the inside is unfinished. but once it is finished i will not worry about the kicking issue.

but i do think i could get up on top of the tear. i just don't really want to test that.

and to ease my mind about that darn hatch, i am going to use the cinch straps to run front to back for traveling. we still have some kinks to work out. but it is coming along. now if we made a second one, i would still use the foam. but there are things i would do differently.
1 and this is the most important: take more time! don't rush it. make sure all pieces fit together properly.
2: i would precanvas at least the inside walls and roof.
..i think the outside should be done once its built. that helps to get that nice tight fit.
3. would use a wooden frame for the doors. which we are going to do that eventually also.

now some things i would not do differently:
i would not change the way i did the layering of tools. i would still go full strenght with the glue on first layer, i would still use the dilution and primer and paint.

but on that painting issue. if you want a design, i think you need to prime it and not put down anycolor where you want to add other paints. that did not sound right. i did mine in that solid reddish/burgundy color, the one thing i noticed now is that it doesn't take well to anything added on top. so to paint a design on there now is going to be hard. the paint or water or glue or poly just runs right off. that is a plus, but it is a negative for adding a design to it.

oh and another thing i would do is to build it a bit bigger. never any smaller, but for sure bigger.

you already know [i am sure] is that i am a worry wart, and that must come for me being a mother, the good mother, not bad mother. :lol: but i am not the least bit worried that this will NOT hold up. that should tell you something about the strenght.

so be patient, take your time and decide ahead of time what your finished design/paints will be and work towards that.

now your td gpw, you already know about painting, and canvas so you will be ahead of the game. and i think you said you are not using the diluted layer, just going to the primer.
Louella
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Postby eaglesdare » Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:28 am

just an added thought. the doors could be still built out of foam. but to make it easier and a better fit, i think the wood frame and wood door will work better and i think it would be easier. kiss is a great motto.

my hatch doesn't have a tight fit, but i am not worried about that yet. it just needs a stip of weather stripping and it will be fine. same for the cargo area, even thought that is a nice tight fit, i think added weather stripping will be beneficial.

those are the areas where there is not a solid piece of canvas on. and that is where any water might get in. but it will not be coming in from my roof.

hope that answered you question. probably too much info huh?

patience and preplanning will be the best for this foamie design. i have never built anything, so this was a great learning experience. and i do plan to build another one. just not sure when. i'll be building off the trailer for that one.

i will be taking lots of pics this weekend. hubby has decided to take friday off, so we can get on the road and take out time getting there. also, some great news: we do not have to cross that nose bleed bridge! we have a bridge to cross, but not that one that takes you up into the clouds. so i should be ok.

i want to drive on the way there, so i can get used to this, but not sure hubby has the heart for that.
Louella
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Postby GPW » Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:17 am

Eagle , Thanks !!! Your thoughts, observations, and concerns are Most Appreciated and only add to the overall information ... Two things we must know is , the weight , and the cost ...?? (Sorry , not meaning to be Nosey , just part of the general building information)

I think it came out SUPER !!! Can't wait to see more pics ... :D :thumbsup: 8)
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Postby HandyAtLeast » Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:24 am

Hi, new here but I've been following with great interest. I'm looking at maybe someday building an ultra-lite 5x8 TD and I like the foam/Tightbond/fabric (FTF?) concept. Once, a long time ago I worked for a prop builder in Seattle and this thread reminded me that I help build a costume using this technique. It was a truffle costume for some poor schmuk to wear on a street corner and hand out promo materials for a local chocolate shop. It was a foam box, sculpted to look like a piece of chocolate, with arm, head and leg holes. It was covered with an adhesive and fabric and paint. It was very real looking and very strong (and warm).

Anyway, here is a design concept I've drawn up for a 2" foam skin. Still working on it:
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Postby lm248 » Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:29 am

If you highlight the link then it shows up in the body of your post,,,,,
:D :D :D
I loke your plan.
Les
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Postby eaglesdare » Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:53 am

the only thing i would be concerned about in your sketch is the shelving. i would add some support posts, and these could be alined in with the walls. i would worry just slightly over time about the pull of the wood on the foam. just my 2 cents for what ever that is worth. :lol:

my td is almost like your drawing. i have that 1/2 wall in the back with that wider flat piece on top. that will make a good bunk bed for a kid. and your flat out bottom piece i have that, but mine flips out and up for a counter, inside makes for a nice storage area. but if you cut out a breathing hole, could make for a nice 4th person kid sleeping area also.

mine td is also a 5x8. i believe it to be slightly wider than the five feet though.

i think the 2" foam for the roof is going to be a bit harder also, unless you can bend it. we had to score the 1" foam for mine and it came out nice. not sure about the 2" but we did not try it.

good luck on your build. and keep those wooden doors! :lol:
Louella
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Postby eaglesdare » Wed Apr 13, 2011 11:10 am

GPW wrote:Eagle , Thanks !!! Your thoughts, observations, and concerns are Most Appreciated and only add to the overall information ... Two things we must know is , the weight , and the cost ...?? (Sorry , not meaning to be Nosey , just part of the general building information)

I think it came out SUPER !!! Can't wait to see more pics ... :D :thumbsup: 8)


i am going to see if hubby would mind if we weigh it on the way out on friday. of course that will be loaded with our gear.

hubby asked me the other day how much this thing cost. and i am ashamed to say it but i did stop watching the priceing. i kept going back for small runs to the store.

but i can break it down a little bit
frame 577
perm plates 75
title 45
2 pieces of 4x8 birch ply 42 ish each
3 gallons t2 22 - 26 ish each
1 gallon t3 [they ran out of t2] 36 ish
2 2" foam 27 ish each
2 1" foam 17 ish each
3 canvas 22 is each
1 piece of ply 32 to 42 can't remember which one we ended up with
i did not buy the primer or paint, daughter picked that up for me. so not too sure, but maybe around 25 to 35 ish. paint x2 and primer x1
there are 3 latches, 4 ish each
2 long hinge, 10 ish each
and 4 small hinges [doors] 4 ish
the one thing i can even guess at is the spar wood. i hubby went to buy that and i have no idea how much that might cost, even approx. but i think there are 2 pieces for that.

all of that comes to approx $1176
i did get a 10% discount on everything bought at lowes.
there are also some nuts/bolts/poly/brushes/sand paper that i did not add in there.

i would say this is pretty darn close to an aprrox price for this build. hth a little bit. sorry i lost track and couldn't give exact amounts. i started to but then just slacked off.
Louella
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Postby eaglesdare » Wed Apr 13, 2011 11:24 am

i just went out there to put some weather stripping on and count the spars, but it appears that the bumblebees think i built them a new home. they think it is done enough for their use. :lol:

so until i get some spray to get rid of them, or hubby moves the trailer, i won't be going out there. under normal circumstances i don't worry about bumble bess, but these guys were a bit protective and did not hesitate to let me know to stay away.
Louella
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Postby HandyAtLeast » Wed Apr 13, 2011 12:14 pm

Thanks all. Eagle- right about the shelf supports, I just didn't bother modeling them. Uploaded two new renderings. Added: sliding doors to the cabin cubbys, sink and storage hatches, and interior storage doors for access to galley from the cabin. Sink and cooler access from the cabin is a must for me, but I want them in the galley.

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Image
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Postby GPW » Wed Apr 13, 2011 12:41 pm

HAL, looks Doable !!! :thumbsup: Nice drawings !!! 8)

Eagle , That's Not a bad price ... at all ... In fact , that's a Good price ... :D But weighing the TD with all your stuff in it doesn't really
help , unless you weigh all that gear first so we can subtract it from the total weight ... I think a lot of folks would just like to know the empty TD weight , just as a comparison to standard TD construction materials and practices... It's Gotta' be LIGHT !!! ... and with so little to Rot , should be in service for a looooong time ... ;)
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Postby absolutsnwbrdr » Wed Apr 13, 2011 1:25 pm

eaglesdare wrote:zach, it sounds like you know what you are talking about. so i will bring the puter to french creek. maybe you can check it out. before the redcups come out that is. :D


I've had to diagnose and repair a fair amount of computers... I'll be more than happy to take a look at. Before the red cups would probably be better.... I tend to get a little too creative after those come out! :twisted:
Zach
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Postby HandyAtLeast » Wed Apr 13, 2011 1:54 pm

Thanks GPW! I've made some more changes and increased the width to 72" and added wheel wells. I added a bunk that folds up into a couch across the front of the cabin. The cubbies over the couch might not leave enough headroom for comfort, so those will probably get smaller or go away.

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