Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

mezmo wrote:
Maybe I'm reading it wrong as mentioned, but shouldn't the kerfs be
positioned to the outside? That gives a smooth interior wall and no
worry about interior oriented kerf edges lining up and such. Then
you'd just fill in the exterior kerfs with some judicious amounts of spray
foam from a can, and then cut/sand off any excess of that flush with
the rest of the rigid foam

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

HMMMM I always thought of it as kerfs to the inside of the curve but doing it with the kerfs to the outside of the curve certainly allows for tighter bends, which should help me create the nose of my trailer. If there isn't a large loss of structural strength this would certainly be easier than carving the nose out of a large block of foam.

You may be a genius!!!

Cuts on the outside make BIGGER gaps , more to fill ... Cuts on the inside tend to become smaller ... no need to fill , just skin over ... All how much you like to sand ,and the spray foam doesn't sand that easy either ...

i started to fill in my kerfs on the inside. but gave up. so far haven't had any problems because of that.

I don't think the kerfs were ever meant to be filled , just skinned over ... never seen again .. The Skin is the Strength !!!

yup, that is what we did. while my inside is not finished. their is skin on the kerfed part and the roof. i think all joints have canvas on also. its just mainly the flat sides that still show foam.

one of these days, one of these days.

Eagle , just paint over the bare foam inside .... already been tested eh ???

And Fix that DOOR !!!!

Like G said,

I just plan on painting on the canvas. Not going to bother filling in the kerfs.

Filling in the kerfs wouldn't add anything to the strength anyways...

Mike...

Hi All,

I suggested the unkerfed side inward for smoothness of the final
look. I'm guessing the glue/paint/canvas/glue/paint [whatever method
is used] would telegraph any 'imperfections' through it to the finished/
final surface.

The same thought for the external facing kerfs. Filled and sanded [more
work I agree] would present a smooth surface for the final covering. It''d
all depend on the final look you want.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

As far as the kerfs on the inside , if they were cut the right width and at the exact spacing for the intended curve that they should come together pretty much avoiding any spaces ... Somebody covered this very well a while back ... just can't remember who at the moment ... Scientific calculations for kerfing ... Foamie science !!! Makes sense huh ...

HMMMM , something else for me to think about. External kerf and more sanding (maybe epoxy thickened with microballoons, supposed to sand pretty nicely) or internal kerf and carve the nose out of a foam block. Not sure. I'm also thinking about redesigning the nose to incorporate less of a curve...easier to kerf and no nose block of foam. Decisions, decisions, decisions

G I'm just waiting for ya to get busy and build it already .

Cliff

Cliff, just waiting on the Ministry of Finance(and cooler weather ) ... Currently assembling materials ...

Hi GPW,

Here are some links to a BowTop Vardoish build done as a thesis,
that may have some interest for you, for details on the Foamstream

http://tinyhouseblog.com/tiny-house-concept/protostoga/
http://tinyhouseblog.com/tiny-house-con ... ga-update/
http://tinyhouseblog.com/stick-built/pr ... -interior/

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

Hi GPW,

Just had a flash thought about the 1/4 spheric front framing of the
Foamstream. It may be a long-shot: But I wonder if you could find one
of the 1/4 sphere tube frames that awning companies use to make an
awning over a door that has no other provision for it. Maybe even the
old fabric could be available for a glue and paint coat?

A perfect repurpose and reuse possibility.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

Norm, that’s some Great info/pics !!!! THANKS !!!
What a NICE interior !!! .... Much fancier than I'd imagine it would be done on a simple build ... looking at all the available space (roominess) inside is Very encouraging ...

Presently thinking the nose cone will be a foam kerfing puzzle ... bi-directional kerfs allowing a compound curve ... Might have to make a few attempts before I get it right ... And the one good thing is that Foam , once heated and bent STAYS in that shape ... the logic being the unkerfed foam remaining will be thin and will be easy to heat and bend ...

Old awning frame would be Cool eh ! ... pretty simple to Fab out of EMT or aluminum , pop rivet ...