Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I have treated my ply with GPW's 25% polyurethane/75% paint thinner mix. I plan on filling the seams of the ply, putting 1/4" trim over it, and sealing the edges of the trim. Question is, what is the caulk and adhesive I use for this that will stick good to the polyurethane treated wood? Oh and one other thing, whatever it is I need to be able to get it at Lowes or Home Depot.

Thanks!

I used this on my poly mix treated plywood http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-Premium-10-fl-oz-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive-1390595/202020473#.UbP58lko61s

Q11, you know , that’s a darn good question... Don’t think anyone’s ever asked that before ...

If you think about it , polyurethane is just Plastic ... so anything that sticks to plastic would work .... Lots of plastic framed windows/etc. now that need caulk or glue ... You might ask at the HD what is recommended for such products ... and in the best Foamie’ manner , test it yourself on a scrap first ...

As with any type of adhesive, the surface must be CLEAN and Dry !!! You need to give the coating time to not only dry , but “cure” , which I believe is the “outgassing” of the product ... so if it still “smells" it’s not cured yet ... ( FYI, common Latex house paint can take up to 2 weeks to cure .. )
For Clean, when in doubt , just wipe it down with a solvent like alcohol , or a "de-greaser” ( I use 91% rubbing alcohol from the drugstore .. it’s Cheap and effective)

WOI, that looks like some good stuff ?

GPW wrote:Q11, you know , that’s a darn good question... Don’t think anyone’s ever asked that before ...

If you think about it , polyurethane is just Plastic ... so anything that sticks to plastic would work .... Lots of plastic framed windows/etc. now that need caulk or glue ... You might ask at the HD what is recommended for such products ... and in the best Foamie’ manner , test it yourself on a scrap first ...

As with any type of adhesive, the surface must be CLEAN and Dry !!! You need to give the coating time to not only dry , but “cure” , which I believe is the “outgassing” of the product ... so if it still “smells" it’s not cured yet ... ( FYI, common Latex house paint can take up to 2 weeks to cure .. )
For Clean, when in doubt , just wipe it down with a solvent like alcohol , or a "de-greaser” ( I use 91% rubbing alcohol from the drugstore .. it’s Cheap and effective)

WOI, that looks like some good stuff ?

How long should I allow my soaked wood to cure before putting the adhesive/caulk on it?

Like GPW stated, when you can't smell the thinner anymore it should be fully cured. you could also look into marine sealants (3M has a good line that is available everywhere). Just make sure that you know if you want to take something apart or not. Some of them are a "permanent bond" and some are classified as "removable". But seeing as how they are intended to be used below the waterline on boats, they should work well for waterproofing anything on a trailer. They are just a little more costly. It's not like you need gallons of the stuff, though.