Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

So, I decided to do some mock ups while it was raining yesterday. Had a fabulous time moving things around and trying different configurations. Here's some

First up, the two large cushions from the prior teardrop project, fit nicely as both a bench and bed. I will be able to stack them to keep them clean when other stuff is in the trailer.

and

Then I played around with a shelf for the foot of the bed. I needed to see if I could make one that would allow the AC to work. The hatch isn't mounted yet and will be a couple of inches higher in the wall. It doesn't have a trim ring and it doesn't have any mounting holes in the flange. Wondering if something like PL300? would work to mount it into the foam. I will be painting the door skins to match the wall colors inside and out. The shelf legs are 18" and there's room up top for the Endless Breeze and my laptop (entertainment center).

As you can also see. I have indoor plumbing. The porta pot fits nicely in the corner and I can actually sit on it comfortably inside the Nookery. I do have to stack the bed cushions, so it will most likely get an outside the tear tent.



Finally, I started working on the curtain hardware, or in this case plasticware. The rail is meant for ceiling mounting, but I thought it would work on the edges of the window framing. It will keep the curtain close to the wall and allow the curtain to be pushed open to either end.

and

That seems a nice way to arrange things !!!

GPW wrote:That seems a nice way to arrange things !!!

Thank you!

Loud cheering! now go camping!

Fantastic Bonnie!

I can successfully add hard points! I am adding wood bracing to the door to hold the door handle. I have cut out the foam for the wood to steady the handle I bought. to come. I can't find my hole saw kit, so I'm off to harbor freight.

I had to make myself really before I could make those first cuts. I want to canp, darn it.

You are making progress! I am impressed! GO Bonnie!


Mary C.

So, adding a working door handle to the Nookery took all afternoon. Be forewarned, 2" foam doors make for some interesting adjustments.

I caught the handle on clearance for $7, it's a nice brushed nickle metal screen door handle. It had all the required parts and even had several sizes of door keys. I thought I was gold. Nope. But more on that later. I knew I had to add a hard surface to mount the handle so I decided to work from the inside of the door. That way the outer skin and some of the foam would not be disturbed. I had to think about how everything would fit because the face frame adds 5/8" to the overall door shut and lock equation. I finally decided to glue two pieces of wood together to make the correct depth. I cut one piece of the wood and used it to trace an outline of where I wanted the door handle to be.



Then I used my box knife and a 1/4" chisel to remove the skin and most, but not all of the foam.



Then I test fit the wood piece. Score! Looked great. Tight enough, I had to work to get it out.



I removed it so I could glue the other piece to it. Lots of TBII and some clamps and I let things dry while I ran around to get the 1/2" drill bit and such. Found a set of drill bits on clearance at Sears - $7 and it had a bonus bit that just happened to be 1/2". I am happy camper, so I head home. Once the glue dried (it's 93 today, so it was fast), I test fit the piece again. Then I used a garnish piece to mark the holes. Then I clamped the entire arrangement, with another piece of wood under the door piece to the trailer tongue and drilled those holes.



Well, I'm excited now, because so far I've only had one HD run for this project. That changed. I was in the middle of dry fitting everything when I realized the door key and the bolt were going to be too short. Off to the HD for trip #2. It took 4 hardware stores. My neighborhood mom and pop store had the correct size alum. square rod for under $4. I'm afraid the gentleman who helped me was a bit put off I didn't own a vice or grinder. He kindly cut the alum. to the correct size and beveled the edges. And it was a perfect fit!

The bolts took a bit more looking and I ended up finding them at the Lowes right down the street from my house. Figures. Anyhow, so I head home having added a measly $1.40 to the door knob project cost.

After a bit of convincing, the door handle is on and shuts and locks!



Total door handle cost:

Handle $7
New Key $4
Drill Bit $7
Bolts $1.40

Total: $19.40, well really just $12.40, if I don't count the bits.

Now, I will need to take it all apart and actually finish the wood and glue it into the door. That's for another day.

Bonus is the mock up of the graphic for the trailer. It will most likely be in the HF red. What do you all think?

Good going, now you might want to add brownies or cake or something delicious to give to the incredulous thinking man so if you need his help on another project he would be willing. Now Tuesday I am baking something to have in my front seat when I go to the metal place looking for handles for my Dutch oven, I was told to look for Jim and if he has a little time, He might bend them for me and the person telling me said he liked home baked cookies and such.

It sounds like you did a great job getting the lock on the door. I do know the frustration. just take your time you are getting there. Now is the fun part!!! and what ever color you pick remember it will fade some.........


Mary C.

NICE looking door handle ...

Great job on the handle!!! You are definitely right about needing more adjustments than you'd think. I struggled with that part too

Just sayin’... door handles aren’t the easiest thing to install ... especially on a door where you must add provisions for it ... Sorry Bonnie ... I never got around to that But you did a Super job !!!
Re: Doors... can drive you Crazy ... Although we measured Everything Exact on the FS door , even measuring the hinge thickness too... once we got it up it was still scraping in one little area.... Removed and re-installed the door several times .... turns out it was the thin Al piano hinges that were bending /distorting ... still rubs “slightly” and closes Tight ...makes a funny little whistling noise when you open the door (vacuum) ... The handle had wood provided for , but we still had to measure everything several times , and then finally “got it” ...

GPW wrote:Just sayin’... door handles aren’t the easiest thing to install ... especially on a door where you must add provisions for it ... Sorry Bonnie ... I never got around to that But you did a Super job !!!

No appologies needed, Glen. I am a very, very happy camper!

And I’m very very happy that you are very very Happy !!!  I was worried when you left , wondering if it would tow OK down the highway ? ... much less down my street ? Was worried till you posted your arrival home ... Shakedown cruise is always the most anxious, and that was a loooong cruise home eh ...

Well I did it. I bought the supplies for the super simple electric and actually installed everything today. Decided to put the connection through the floor in the back on the side opposite the door. I will have the AC hatch in the back of the teardrop. More on that later. The Kinda in the title owes it's existence to an electrical short in the system. Everything tested fine until I move the wires to get them under the cabinet. Yup, I've been busy. Really frustrated right now, so I walked away from the project. I'll have to take it all apart and try the wiring again. I'm not really happy with the way the Marinco just compresses on to the bare wire. I'm sure that's part of the issue. I probably didn't get one of the attachment screws tight enough.

Tomorrow is another day. It will be better.