Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am planning to build a foamie based on the Rimple design with a few modifications. I would appreciate any and all thoughts on the following.

I will be using a trailer I built about 7 years ago but will have to modify it to hold the desired 11ft long foamie and I am concerned that the axle location might be too far forward.

The trailer “box” is 102” long, 62-1/2” wide and empty the trailer weighs about 475 lbs.

It has torsion stub axles and the center of the wheels are 67-1/2” behind the front edge of the box.

The tongue is a 2”x3” steel tube and measures 61” from hitch to the front of the box and continues through for 67” to the wheel centers. This piece of steel weighs about 67 lbs.

The tongue weight of the empty unmodified trailer measured at 112 lbs. at the hitch.

I am planning on adding 26” additional at the back of the trailer which would add about 40 lbs of steel behind the wheels. Not counting the tongue it looks like 53% of the weight will be in front of the wheels and 47% behind them. So without the tongue and with the added steel the trailer would weigh about 440 lbs. or about 27 lbs heavier in front of the wheels than behind. Adding the 67 lbs of tongue estimates the tongue weight of about 94 lbs. or about 18% of the trailer weight.

The foamie Rimple being basically symmetrical front to back looks like it won’t impact the weight distribution too much and since I plan to have my 100 AH AGM battery (70-80 lbs.) at the front of the Rimple that should make it stable from what I see as long as I don’t add much storage behind the wheels.

So, is my logic sound or is there another issue that needs to be considered?

Thanks for looking at this and letting me know what you think.

This will help: http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... tear81.htm

Also, don't forget the weight of cabinets, contents, and what you'll be keeping in the galley, if you have one.

Thanks for the spreadsheet link Sharon ... I have decided to split the extension evenly between the front and back of the trailer. By adding 13" to each I keep the percentage of the trailer weight at about 58% in front of the wheels plus the 67 lbs. of the tongue tube. Real glad I read about the failures some folks had experienced with single tongue rigs and went heavy when I built it and having that weight will help keep the tongue weight up.

I don't plan a galley in it but rather go with the back 84" as a raised bed as in Mike's Big Pink thread. I'll have foam shelves in the front and back with a fold-down table in the front that will cover the shelves when up in the travel position. This way the entry doors will not open into the bed and I can set up a portable propane stove on the table inside if the weather turns nasty. Most of my food, extra clothing etc will be stored in small satchels distributed in the foam "boxes" under the bed or in the locked tonneau covered back portion of the F150 TV.

Thanks ... Gene

With Conch Fritter, while a "sit up" and not a standy, the bed frame is 18" above the floor. The galley is actually two box sections linked together that ride under the bed, but come out of the the back of the trailer, rotate and have end sections that flip over. It takes about 2 minutes to set up and 3-4 to put away. I have no opening hatch and the galley door is placed in a sealed recess, so I have no problems with water infiltration. It is nice to have a galley all ready to go in minutes, with running water, stove, and lots of storage and counter space. It slides in and out on aluminum rails with roller skate bearings.

This is how it looked when we were initially building it


Here is how it works





The rotating side is linked to a small line, that automatically rotates the unit. The main unit also has a line to keep it from coming out too far


The "boxes" are essentially modified versions of the old Boy Scout camp kitchen, joined together with a large hinge. The legs are aluminum telescoping legs from an old tripod I had with clam clamps.


The sink rides upside-down and presently holds the legs and some other items. A modification I'm making this winter is so the legs are permanently mounted, but swivel down.




The on-demand water heater mounts to the back side of the stove section. The stove top flips up holding hoses and an extension table. The sink flips over and locks into an aluminum brace


Plug in the water, attach the propane tank and it is ready to go. Has both shore and internal water systems. 12v and 120v electric. The stove top is a Dometic I got from an old RV, way better than the portable camp stoves.


There is an insert piece that closes off the rear. Also there are two aluminum sliders that attach panels to my ezup canopies.

Just another way of doing stuff.

dave