A Restart and a Change of Direction
Posted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 10:24 amSeven or eight years ago I built a homemade bolt together trailer for a small 5’ wide teardrop but had to stop due to a health problem.
Now I am back and have decided to build an 11’ long and 5’ wide (inside) Foamie TTT similar to the Rimple. There will be no plywood used in the construction except possibly part of the inside foam floor to distribute the point weight.
Other than in the trailer I claim no originality on the ideas and methods I plan to use. When I returned to the forum in early January and found the foamies section I started reading the Big Thread, then the Big Pink, the Foamstream, #1 and numerous others. I have borrowed ideas from them all and I thank you for spreading the knowledge and techniques.
Trailer – (Complete)
The first step was to strip the trailer of the previously built wooden floor and add 32” to the length of the “bed”. I did this with a 14” extension to the front and an 18” extension at the rear to keep a reasonable tongue weight. The extension was made of the same 2” x 2” x 3/16” angle iron used in the initial build. All steel to steel attachments are made with 3/8” Grade 5 steel hardware.
Being concerned about the tongue failures that were being discussed on the forum back then, I decided bigger was better so I built the tongue using an 11’ long, 2” x 3” x 3/16” steel tube that runs from the hitch back past the cross pieces used to attach the stub torque axles. It is attached to the trailer frame on both sides at 6 points along its length. It is overkill for a Foamie, perhaps, but there are some advantages for the running gear to be built like a tank.
At least, that’s what I keep telling myself.
This is the trailer before the extensions.
gallery/image.php?album_id=4369&image_id=143662
And here it is ready for the TTT.
gallery/image.php?album_id=4369&image_id=142881
The dark color on two of the cross members is transferred evil black goo that was painted on the earlier wooden floor that transferred to the trailer and dripped onto the garage floor during the mid South Carolina summers while it was sitting. I will not be using any of that goo on my TTT.
Sub-Floor – (Under Construction)
The perimeter of the sub-floor is being constructed of 1” x 6 in. SYP. It will extend 2” beyond the front and rear of the frame and 1-1/2” beyond the sides of the frame. The cross members will be made of 1 x 4 except for where there is a seam in the foam floor. There, I will use 1 x 6 to provide extra support.
I plan to saturate the sub-floor with “The Mix”, then rough sand it. It will be attached to the trailer using ¼-20 flat head screws at the front (4), rear (4), sides (6 ea.), and on all cross members (2).
gallery/image.php?album_id=4369&image_id=143663
In addition, I plan put a liberal bead of ALEX Plus between the full length of the steel and the sub-floor for additional adhesion.
Floor – (In-Planning)
I am planning to make the floor of sections of 2” foam with the edge joints running side to side supported by the sub-floor boards. The outer edge of the floor will be glued to an SYP 1-1/2” x 2” board for the total perimeter.
The bottom of the foam will be covered with canvas and Titebond ll that will wrap around the perimeter wood and up onto the top. The top will be covered with FRP or possibly thin luan to distribute the weight loading on the floor.
I am considering using the Dap Alex Plus Latex Caulk to join the sections, but need to run a few tests before I decide. One possibility I am considering for the floor and wall joints is to make a jig that will allow me to drill mating ½” holes into the adjacent edges and insert grooved ½ inch dowels liberally coated with Alex Plus caulk into the holes to better lock the caulked edges together before wrapping it in canvas.
Another approach I want to experiment with is one I saw in a thread. Drill the holes in the edges then over-fill the holes with the caulk creating caulk “plugs” in both pieces that will harden as they cure instead of using dowels.
I realize the caulk is slow drying and would add delay periods in the build, but I suspect that, at least for the summer here in central South Carolina, it will harden enough in 4 or 5 days to add the next piece without risking damaging the previous work with reasonable care in handling it.
Time to start testing.
Now I am back and have decided to build an 11’ long and 5’ wide (inside) Foamie TTT similar to the Rimple. There will be no plywood used in the construction except possibly part of the inside foam floor to distribute the point weight.
Other than in the trailer I claim no originality on the ideas and methods I plan to use. When I returned to the forum in early January and found the foamies section I started reading the Big Thread, then the Big Pink, the Foamstream, #1 and numerous others. I have borrowed ideas from them all and I thank you for spreading the knowledge and techniques.
Trailer – (Complete)
The first step was to strip the trailer of the previously built wooden floor and add 32” to the length of the “bed”. I did this with a 14” extension to the front and an 18” extension at the rear to keep a reasonable tongue weight. The extension was made of the same 2” x 2” x 3/16” angle iron used in the initial build. All steel to steel attachments are made with 3/8” Grade 5 steel hardware.
Being concerned about the tongue failures that were being discussed on the forum back then, I decided bigger was better so I built the tongue using an 11’ long, 2” x 3” x 3/16” steel tube that runs from the hitch back past the cross pieces used to attach the stub torque axles. It is attached to the trailer frame on both sides at 6 points along its length. It is overkill for a Foamie, perhaps, but there are some advantages for the running gear to be built like a tank.
At least, that’s what I keep telling myself.
This is the trailer before the extensions.
gallery/image.php?album_id=4369&image_id=143662
And here it is ready for the TTT.
gallery/image.php?album_id=4369&image_id=142881
The dark color on two of the cross members is transferred evil black goo that was painted on the earlier wooden floor that transferred to the trailer and dripped onto the garage floor during the mid South Carolina summers while it was sitting. I will not be using any of that goo on my TTT.
Sub-Floor – (Under Construction)
The perimeter of the sub-floor is being constructed of 1” x 6 in. SYP. It will extend 2” beyond the front and rear of the frame and 1-1/2” beyond the sides of the frame. The cross members will be made of 1 x 4 except for where there is a seam in the foam floor. There, I will use 1 x 6 to provide extra support.
I plan to saturate the sub-floor with “The Mix”, then rough sand it. It will be attached to the trailer using ¼-20 flat head screws at the front (4), rear (4), sides (6 ea.), and on all cross members (2).
gallery/image.php?album_id=4369&image_id=143663
In addition, I plan put a liberal bead of ALEX Plus between the full length of the steel and the sub-floor for additional adhesion.
Floor – (In-Planning)
I am planning to make the floor of sections of 2” foam with the edge joints running side to side supported by the sub-floor boards. The outer edge of the floor will be glued to an SYP 1-1/2” x 2” board for the total perimeter.
The bottom of the foam will be covered with canvas and Titebond ll that will wrap around the perimeter wood and up onto the top. The top will be covered with FRP or possibly thin luan to distribute the weight loading on the floor.
I am considering using the Dap Alex Plus Latex Caulk to join the sections, but need to run a few tests before I decide. One possibility I am considering for the floor and wall joints is to make a jig that will allow me to drill mating ½” holes into the adjacent edges and insert grooved ½ inch dowels liberally coated with Alex Plus caulk into the holes to better lock the caulked edges together before wrapping it in canvas.
Another approach I want to experiment with is one I saw in a thread. Drill the holes in the edges then over-fill the holes with the caulk creating caulk “plugs” in both pieces that will harden as they cure instead of using dowels.
I realize the caulk is slow drying and would add delay periods in the build, but I suspect that, at least for the summer here in central South Carolina, it will harden enough in 4 or 5 days to add the next piece without risking damaging the previous work with reasonable care in handling it.
Time to start testing.
Another branch on the decision tree. ... Gene