Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I was at a local discount house. And they had maybe 50 cans (some small/ some large), of an off name brand of spray foam (crack seam filler) like great stuff. I did not have my glasses (yes I'm old) to read the info on the cans. But they did say Low Pressure.
What type of spray foam is needed , when filling the cuts made in the foam. When you cut it to make bends.
Oh the cans at the discount house were $2.00. ea

You need to buy a can and try it out .... Then tell us how good it worked .... or not ...
The Foamling’s code .... when in doubt , test it out ... First ...

I understand testing things out. But what foam filler is usually used ? I know that some can create enough force to warp wall and things. So I'm unsure of what to look for.

Do NOT get ones meant for windows and doors. They dry soft, are hard to sand smooth and tend to pull out when you try to sand a gap you filled in my experience using the name brand 'great stuff'. look for big gap filler. Use a putty knife to smash it down after you spray it in the cracks.

dancam wrote:Do NOT get ones meant for windows and doors. They dry soft, are hard to sand smooth and tend to pull out when you try to sand a gap you filled in my experience using the name brand 'great stuff'. look for big gap filler. Use a putty knife to smash it down after you spray it in the cracks.

That's what I needed to know. Just because I can get a deal. Does not mean it is a deal.

They may have more than one kind there. One can goes a very, very long ways. I would recommend a powered orbital sander to smooth it after but cutting it with a knife and sanding by hand would work.


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Stay away from the stuff in the white and blue can (DAP brand latex gap filler). Stuff dries to a dust like texture and if you touch it it (almost virtually) "explodes" into a powder (i.e. it is way too fragile for our needs).

I stick with the standard GS brand general purpose gap and crack filler.

What KC said

" I know that some can create enough force to warp wall and things. "... Who said that ??? We've tried many brands , and the worst thing about any of the common ones was it tended to grow a bit after the initial expanding was over .... But not enough to do any warping ...

dancam wrote:They may have more than one kind there. One can goes a very, very long ways. I would recommend a powered orbital sander to smooth it after but cutting it with a knife and sanding by hand would work.


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I'm sure it's just me...but anytime I use GS. It hardens in the tube or nozzle. I do a small project. Have to buy a new can for my next project. So what's the secret to getting several project from one can ?

rustytoolss wrote:

dancam wrote:They may have more than one kind there. One can goes a very, very long ways. I would recommend a powered orbital sander to smooth it after but cutting it with a knife and sanding by hand would work.


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I'm sure it's just me...but anytime I use GS. It hardens in the tube or nozzle. I do a small project. Have to buy a new can for my next project. So what's the secret to getting several project from one can ?

Buy the large cans and a dispensing gun. Only good way

rustytoolss wrote:I'm sure it's just me...but anytime I use GS. It hardens in the tube or nozzle. I do a small project. Have to buy a new can for my next project. So what's the secret to getting several project from one can ?

I use a small screw that fits snug in the nozzle. If you use it again in a few weeks is seems to work fine. Longer than that and the tube still clogs up.

Acetone dissolves the foam, but you still have to watch for residue skinning over the inside of the straw and over the nub inside of the dispenser valve. I keep a short length of 1/16 TIG welding wire to plunge the tube out after acetone rinse... just a drop or two from a squeeze bottle does it. Then plunge it out again before the next use to "scrape" down any film that may have dried afterwards (actually, I try to just peel the skin out of the tube without making any scratches that might attract residue to stick the next time).

For the nub inside of the dispenser valve I put a drop of acetone in, let it soak for a bit, gently swab it out with the wire (not poking down on the stopper top or scratching), then tip it out or swab it with the corner of a paper towel.

It's not fool proof, and I have still had cans freeze up and not let all of the product out, but it is better than just giving up on them and works at least 2 out of 3 times.

Thanks for the tips, guys !