The free one I used would only do straight cuts, but it would be easy to figure out which pieces would fit into your radius off cuts, and then just leave those out (since you know you can get them out of the drops).
I guess on a simple build this could all be done on paper (paper doll cut out method to scale even), but for my build where I used the 5mm marine ply pretty much everywhere, and the cost was not insignificant... and I did have the luxury of a full blown 3D CAD model (i.e. a well detailed and accurate cut list)... and I traded labor for saw time at a cabinet builders shop who I could give the cutting schedule to, it just made a lot of sense to use an optimizer. Another nice feature, for the wood anyway, was that you can specify grain direction on the parts where that matters. Just saying.
Don't get too caught up in it if it isn't needed, but it can be a very useful tool for bigger projects where it is worth the time to save a few sheets. By breaking my bulkhead and floor skins down into smaller butt joined sections I was able to go from 16 sheets to 13, saving about $165. Still, due to the several large panels and many longer strips, my plywood "waste" was still about 35/ct (but I haven't finished building lantern boxes yet

). On the other hand, after doing all of the work to get the butt seams nice and all, I was regretting not just having bought more full sheets. Getting down to the wire and thinking if I screwed up one large panel I would end up short and have to eat additional shipping costs ($100) also had me second guessing, wishing that I had hedged my bet and just bought the extra sheets anyway (it all worked out in the end, tho).
With foam it isn't so complicated. No grain, cut and paste, and if you run out all you have to do is pop round to the big box again (at least in my region where the foam is readily available).