Another sealant thread

[zzzizxz]

I know everyone asks this, and I've been searching this forum, but I'm seeing some differing answers.

Sealing windows, doors, hatches, and fans.

I had heard butyl tape was great for sealing everything, but the Fantastic fan and the Vintage Technologies all say NOT to use butyl tape. Anyone know why that is?
Also, the Vintage Tech doors come with their own rubber seal, but the window does not. Do I still need to caulk the doors?

Some people say they use silicone for everything, others say they hate it and never touch it.

I've also heard others say they use Vulkem-type, and some say polyurethane caulk.

Based on everything I've read, it seems like everyone has something they love, and use it without issues. It also seems like as long as I do a good job sealing things up, what I use is ... less important?

So, rather than asking again, "What should I use, I'll ask Is there anything that "EVERYONE" "hates" and that I should stay away from?

Similar question,
I bought DAP Dynaflex Ultra Window, Door, Siding & Trim caulk that I was going to use.
Exterior sealant that adheres to everything, pretty much. +/- 35% joint movement, permanently flexible, crack-proof, lifetime mold, mildew, algae resistant, resist UV fading, and is paintable.

Is this a bad sealer to use?

[tony.latham]

DAP Dynaflex Ultra Window, Door, Siding & Trim caulk ...

Isn't that stuff just a latex caulk?

Tony

[GPW]

ZZ, we used that 3m marine sealant , it was pricy , took a long time to dry and everything you use it on becomes pretty much PERMANENT .. We have extreme humidity conditions here and so far nothing has leaked around the places that was used …( 6 years now )

[zzzizxz]

DAP Dynaflex Ultra Window, Door, Siding & Trim caulk ...

Isn't that stuff just a latex caulk?

Tony

Tony,

I think it's basically a latex, but it is more flexible than your standard caulk. Although I can't find anything on the tube or online that says whether it is a latex or poly, or what.

If it is latex, any reason it wouldn't be fine?

[tony.latham]

Latex doesn’t have the elasticity of poly.

Think about washboard roads and chuck holes and the normal vibration as your camper is towed at sixty-five.

There is a difference between a caulk and a sealant.

T


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[zzzizxz]

Latex doesn’t have the elasticity of poly.

Think about washboard roads and chuck holes and the normal vibration as your camper is towed at sixty-five.

There is a difference between a caulk and a sealant.

T


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I think I was incorrect when I called it caulk. Many reviews have called it caulk, but the DAP website (and the tube) calls it an exterior sealant, not an exterior caulk.

Although they seem to work very hard to NOT classify it as poly, silicone, latex, etc...

Interestingly, looking at the MSDS for the DAP, it uses limestone and quartz as fillers, which was what the OLD glidden gripper used. It also has carbon black, which seems to be basically a rubber product. I assume that's how they get the additional elasticity out of it. Don't know if that has any impact on anything though.

[working on it]

* I still think that Loctite PL Premium 3X adhesive is about the best TTT-building adhesive out there. A recent YouTube video backs up my choice.

* Though I don't know about any of the construction adhesive/sealants' abilities to work with "foam", but the YouTube videographer "Project Farm" uploaded results from his "Best Construction Adhesives" tests (part 1 @ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyudWdOgrNc, part 2 @ https://youtu.be/hukFoQ4GIk8 that he conducted on wood and pvc, in two installments. Here's a screen snip showing his results:

best construction adhesive test summary, Project Farm video youtube.JPG (78.76 KiB) Viewed 3047 times

* I had always thought that the Loctite PL Premium (3X) adhesive that I chose to use on my trailer build (starting in the fall of 2011) was a good choice, better than the Liquid Nails HD that I'd previously used for some time, and his tests confirmed that. I don't think that the winner of his tests, Loctite PL Premium (8X) adhesive was on the shelves at that time (and I probably wouldn't have paid the higher price for it...mine was a low/no budget build to start with), so I got the 3X and have been happy with it over the years.

* "Project Farm" notes that tough the Loctite 3X and 8X aren't rated for "full" waterproof capabilities, and 3M 5200 and others may be more waterproof than them, for my usage (90+ % stored in a dry garage, exposure to T-storms maybe 10 times a year at most) the Loctite PL 3X has been truly great holding the wood together, without any signs of leakage or separation. I used at least 10-12 tubes of it during the build (on every single seam, inside and out, redundantly), more for mods and alterations, and the only other adhesives/sealants used were TB2 (between floor layers), Gorilla Contact Cement (in small, highly visible screw placement situations), and OSI Quad (around window frames, where its' non-drying, flexible properties were needed). I guess if I were to build it over again, I probably would still use the 3X (but if in constant rainy situations, perhaps the 5200 would be better, maybe not). But, for the price, it is the best.

[GPW]

WOI, Thanks for the comparison !!!

"Think about washboard roads and chuck holes and the normal vibration as your camper is towed at sixty-five. “ Don’t you mean 85 mph ? …. The other day I was on the highway out of town and I was doing 70 mph , and a guy towing a small camper trailer passed me like I was standing still ... I didn’t even get a look at what kind of trailer it was , as it was a blur going by …

I had my FS up to 60mph but wouldn’t need to go any faster , especially on our c**p roads … And I’m always the slowest one on the road towing anything for sure ...

[tony.latham]

Don’t you mean 85 mph ?

I'm three hours from the nearest 85.

T

[tony.latham]

Don’t you mean 85 mph ?

I concur. (Except a tight wood joint, TB2.)



But this is a sealant thread, not a discussion about adhesives. I would not use it to seal windows or the fan since they might need to be replaced.

I'm in the market for a clear poly sealant that is UV resistant. Any ideas out there? I've always got a tube of Lexel but I'm not convinced it likes the sun.

T

[working on it]

But this is a sealant thread, not a discussion about adhesives. I would not use it to seal windows or the fan since they might need to be replaced.

I'm in the market for a clear poly sealant that is UV resistant. Any ideas out there? I've always got a tube of Lexel but I'm not convinced it likes the sun.

T

* I mentioned the non-hardening sealant I used, in the last paragraph of my previous post. OSI Quad. They make it in a clear version (I used grey to match my trailer), and they say it is UV-resistant.

OSI clear.JPG (85.35 KiB) Viewed 2990 times

[tony.latham]

OSI Quad. They make it in a clear version (I used grey to match my trailer), and they say it is UV-resistant.

And THANKS!

Tony

[aggie79]

I'm a 3m 4200 groupie, but on the "items that might need to be removed in the future" list, I used either foam gaskets or butyl tape with a bead of OSI Quad around the perimeter.

[GPW]

Oh, I like the specs of the OSI … … and the price …

[Graniterich]

I swear by Lexel , cost a little more, but worth it

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