Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I have the big trailer primed with 2 coats of gripper, and I’m ready to start prepping for final coats of paint. Trying to beat the change in seasons...
I have a serious problem emotionally when it comes to buying paint, because my dad owned a Benjamin Moore store for 18 years during my formative years. He retired and sold when I was around 30, so I never knew what it meant to actually PAY for paint. Lol. Worse yet, I Of course became a paint snob over the years, as Ben Moore is a “premium” brand...
now that I’m old, and have to buy my own stuff, price is a factor, but I want the best I can afford, and am willing to spend more if need be. When I attempt to search online for paint reviews, the only thing that comes up are all the “lesser” brands that the box stores carry. I can’t help but think all the sites with the “best of” reviews are nothing more than paid advertisements. It doesn’t make sense that a $30 gallon of Behr/Glidden/Valspar is across the board better that Ben Moore, Sherly Williams, Sikkens, etc., at twice the money.
Am I wrong? Have the cheap paints gotten competitive AND remained cheaper? How is it that professional paint stores are still open, yet they lose out on every online review?

In your experiences, what have you used on your PMF? What sheen did you choose? I’d like as much as gloss as feasible taking into account the texture of the canvas. I don’t expect it to be a flawless yacht finish.

Any “outside the box” uses, such as Polyurethane topside boat paint, epoxy paints, moisture cure urethane etc?

I know we are all trying to keep things thrifty, but I don’t to do it again in 2 years. I also don’t want to just keep adding coats, because eventually (especially with latex) it starts to look “overpainted”, sometimes even looking chalky or cottage cheese lumpy.

Thanks all!

Mat , as a Fine Artist I too am a self-admitted Paint snob , and the paints I use ( Old Holland ) can cost $50.00 and more for a small 1 oz. tube . But then we’re making expensive ART , but for Foamie trailer work there’s nothing wrong with a good Quality “Oops" paint … and EXTERIOR semi gloss ( or Glossy ) works fine … If you’d paint your House with it ( outside) you can paint your trailer with it … I did … I repainted the House and used the leftover to paint the trailer ( I used Richards Paint of FLA. as it’s made for our HOT and WET southern clime …)
We tried Behr paint from HD , didn’t like it , we tried PPG too, same … meh !! JMHO

QUOTE : ( Note , not the whole page quoted ) "I can’t help but think all the sites with the “best of” reviews are nothing more than paid advertisements.” I think the same … so we test everything ...

I went SW for primer to top coat and went semi. The canvas has such a nice texture and like the semi on it.

+1... opps exterior latex on all but last two coats. I used matte finish. Custom colored the final two coats. Has held up great for four years. Sits outside under a cheap tarp when not in use. About 5k miles and front (windward) surface looks great. Scrub tar and bugs off a couple times each season.

Final coat was Behr from HD. Under coats I don't remember. The pros use SW and other professional paints. Probably for consistancy, warranty and application. I am not a pro and will likely put a new coat on before ten years. Like everything else in the teardrop building world use products you're comfortable with. No body has ever asked me what brand of paint I used though a lot of folks have asked about PMF methods.

Thanks guys-
Sorry, here’s another question- long form...

I actually really like the way it looks right now after two coats of primer. The canvas texture is there for sure, but other than the little nibs, bits, fibers, etc, it looks really great. My wife is SUPER picky, and she hasn’t even asked about whether or not it would get any smoother. She just loves it.
I still have lots of gripper left for after sanding.

Do I really need the multiple coats of mistint? I think another two or three coats total will look awesome, and I do know that more coats aren’t always better in terms of lifespan. Sometimes it just adds more opportunity for delamination, blistering, chemical reactions, etc.

I'm new to this as well, so take it as that.. MHO

I don't see Gripper (even the original) as a waterproofer. I see it as more of an awesome bonder. Will it water resist, probably. Will it waterproof, questionable in my mind.

Heck, I don't think any paint is truly water-proof.. Just some better at resisting. I'm also of the mind the the higher sheen brings more water-resistance. I went semi, though would have preferred a flat, maybe even a matte. Yet wanted that extra water-resistance.

None of us plan to flip our units over and go boating in them. We just want as much water-resistance as possible.

I have a side experiment going. One coat of quality primer/bonder and a coat of semi. Poured water on it and it drained though in less than 15 minutes. 2 coats of top coat it took almost an hour. I'm going with three coats on my unit.

Again, just MHO and what I'm doing.

From what we learned … just FYI
* If it works on your house it will work on your trailer …
* Too much paint isn’t really good , why we sand a lot off before repainting …( Like on your car ) Paint manufacturers recommend a certain number of “mils” …
* No matter what paint you use , it’s a good idea to plan on installing a “Drip edge” to get the water OFF your trailer skin , especially where the wall meets the floor …

Side Note:
I saw an advertisement yesterday. Sherwin Williams has their paint at 40% off right now till Sept 23. That is a good deal on quality paint.

About a decade ago, Clark & Kensington was Consumer Reports best rated paint. It's sold at Ace hardware.
Just tried a can of oops paint for the bottom of my trailer and it's good and thick. Not sure if CR has done a follow-up since then. They tested samples and put them out to weather. Took months, maybe few years for their results.
I do know that they recommend going with 100% acrylic so look for that on the label.
Fwiw, I ve used Rust-Oleum rust paint on wood with great results. I tried some on my prepainted PMF in Black on a lower panel over existing house paint. Stuck well and hardened the surface. Been about 2 months and no issues so far. On another project, I'd be tempted to try it on PMF since it is great quality paint at a good price and very durable. Would test first of course but my small section done is promising.
BTW, I've got 8-10 coats of oops paint on mine and no issues to date through hot SW sun and temperatures.
IMHO, too many coats shouldn't be an issue if applied to clean surface and barring incompatible paint types. I've top coated house paint with rust paint and working so far. Time will tell...