Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

The thought was put out there in the what did you do today thread that might just cure my design ills entirely, and allow me to even consider a trailer instead of a truck camper...

I hadn't considered this previously, but.... There are no shortages of rotted out wood body wise pop up campers that people literally give away, that can provide a myriad of components, not the least of which would be a good rolling frame.

I have seen no shortage of pop ups with frame footprints that are typically easily 6.5 feet x 12 feet, which would allow me to build a just the right size squaredrop or even bigdrop foamie....

Has anyone here done this? How bad of an idea is this?

Canned ham foamie?

I think the longer spans - both roof width between walls and height of walls - may push the limits of canvas and its tensile strength - but possible. Perhaps incorporate a little framing. Perhaps heavier canvas. Needs research - like build a 4x5 and a 4x8 and load both to destruction and see how it does.

I agree with Qbill. Not sure this has been tested. But why not a hybrid foam/wood frame for the roof? There are no rules. Well, there are but...

1 1/2" spars (maybe mini engineered trusses) topped with 1" foam and PMF seem doable. Insulate between spars and you're super insulated.

And if you have patience you'll get your hands on a salvage pop-up that is just right. The trick is to be quick and don't be afraid to spend a hundred or two on something someone thinks can be renovated (yes, free is better). Sell the fridge, sell the furnace, sell the awning, sell the old 120v to 12v converter. You'll break even or close in no time. Two weeks after buying my $200 Viking I am up $143 including $20 in gas and $32 tipping fees and haven't sold the furnace, water heater, lp tank, or three burner stove yet. But the labor you say! Ha, its entertainment!

TimC wrote:I agree with Qbill. Not sure this has been tested. But why not a hybrid foam/wood frame for the roof? There are no rules. Well, there are but...

1 1/2" spars (maybe mini engineered trusses) topped with 1" foam and PMF seem doable. Insulate between spars and you're super insulated.

And if you have patience you'll get your hands on a salvage pop-up that is just right. The trick is to be quick and don't be afraid to spend a hundred or two on something someone thinks can be renovated (yes, free is better). Sell the fridge, sell the furnace, sell the awning, sell the old 120v to 12v converter. You'll break even or close in no time. Two weeks after buying my $200 Viking I am up $143 including $20 in gas and $32 tipping fees and haven't sold the furnace, water heater, lp tank, or three burner stove yet. But the labor you say! Ha, its entertainment!

I think it was your post that tickled the old brain on the idea...

Not sure if I have been completely clear on what I want to accomplish here, but I want a WELL INSULATED, from both heat, and cold, camper that will give me a suitable king bed space with enough room to sit up in bed, watch TV, spend quality couple time with my wife, wait out a nasty sogging rain etc... A good kitchen, easy to use, and enclose awning to enclose said kitchen should weather get foul.

I want to use my existing camp gear as it was chosen for multi use as much as possible.

And yes, a foamie canned ham would be fine.

Obsiously not wanting something big enough for a roomy enough to be useful bathroom, or I would have started with a tall cargo trailer.

Oh, and it needs to be something I can lift up enough to not be a truck anchor going over the beach, or down a logging road.

I know Queens are MUCH more common, but neither my wife, nor I are tiny, and a king means a comfortable night sleep... Trifold mattresses can be easily had for kings, just need to watch for sales as they tend to be quite a bit more than queen...

A 5K BTU window unit AC is a must have, as is a relaible power system, and decent water storage.

I wonder if you would be just as strong but lighter with sheet metal t-sections.
Say, every 10" or so and glued to the foam and canvas supporting the edges of
each section.

Want STRONGER , go thicker foam !!!

Fiberglass trusses would be interesting, light and does not conduct heat. Fiberglass over foam then. If I were to build without cost in mind I would go this way. Otherwise 1"x3" spruce and put in a bit of an arc. This is something I am considering.

I told my wife I was thinking about my next teardrop = Stupid
Look on her Face =
King =

Bit of an arc, yea I am going with that.

Foam core with thin ply skins would be my recommendation. In this photo from my website, the "clouds" are 1 1/2" foam with 3/16 either hardboard or plywood skins 4 x 8 - have done 4 x 12 - suspended just at corners. No framing except edge blocking for hanger attachment. The installers walked on them while installing. Plenty strong enough. The curve or bow is important as is the adhesive bond.

I visited factory where these are made and my first thought was what a great place to make teardrops! Stick the cad drawing in and out come all of the panels - floors, walls, roof.

PS forgot to paste link http://nebula.wsimg.com/5aacabca03d55d7 ... oworigin=1

What adhesive would be best for plywood to foamboard?

GPW wrote:Want STRONGER , go thicker foam !!!

It may be bulky, but I was planning on 1.5" thick foam.

Which begs the next question but I will likely post it elsewhere...

Is there a good way to integrate radiant barrier in foamie construction?

Oh and availability... I see several mid / late 90s pop ups that appear to have blown out roofs or bad canvas that are being given away within my own county.

The big issue for me would be making sure the floor footprint from the frame is sufficient for storage, king bed, and the kitchen / galley. I'm in no way, shape, or form allergic to the idea of building a foamie canned ham, or at least a reasonably aerodynamic standing trailer, but small with ground clearance. My primary use will be off grid dispersed beach and forest camping. Parks are too much of a pain in the tail these days...

dbhosttexas wrote:... Oh and availability... I see several mid / late 90s pop ups that appear to have blown out roofs or bad canvas that are being given away within my own county.

Jump on one of those DB. They are a breeze to strip. My total tipping fees for my first stripper was $32 US @ $71/ton. All you really need is an impact driver, some square and Philips bits (long and short ones), A crow bar/wrecking bar, maybe a Sawzall (I used a 6 1/2" 20v circular saw with a dull blade) and a few other hand tools you likely have handy.

The one warning I will offer... After clearing some of the cabinets from the interior remove the roof before proceeding. The roof gets pretty wobbly the more you remove structure below. When working on the roof raise it up enough to get two sawhorses on the floor inside and lower the roof on top and make sure there is slack in the cable. Then you can safely go inside and unbolt the four posts. Then from the outside start sawing through the roof perpendicular to the sawhorses. Cut pieces small enough to handle. On mine there were two pieces of steel flat stock running side to side next to the vent. They were like 1/8" x 1 1/2" running side to side. A little tough for my 6 1/2" cordless saw but in the end it made it through. If you take a strategic approach you can cut around them and get fairly small sections.

Bezoar wrote:What adhesive would be best for plywood to foamboard?

There are moisture polyurethanes but really need alot of equipment to use them. I have used and plan to use a water based contact cement and a hand roller. Others here have not had good experiences with contact cement. Its different. Instant bond so positioning is everything. Its what the folks that made those panels recommend.

Well, I might end up checking one or two rigs out this weekend with a friend. There is a known 1980s Palomino sitting in a barn just down the road from my friends place. The original owner has passed on and the family wants it gone to clear out the barn... No idea what shape it is in, or if I can actually use the frame. We will see...

dbhosttexas wrote:Well, I might end up checking one or two rigs out this weekend with a friend. There is a known 1980s Palomino sitting in a barn just down the road from my friends place. The original owner has passed on and the family wants it gone to clear out the barn... No idea what shape it is in, or if I can actually use the frame. We will see...

A good sign that it is in a barn. May have mice problems but structurally it could be a cream puff.