New Build: Bug Out with Frame

[AlRea]

I’ve been racing against the cold weather, so haven’t had the time to post on my build till now. I’ve managed to get all the Poor-Man’s Fiberglass work done without having to heat my garage more than a few nights. Now all that’s left is some more painting, installing the windows and door, and bottom rails and drip edge under the floor. Here is an album of photos of my build: https://photos.app.goo.gl/CPcTyG48UTfBL3zP7 I’ll add onto it as I finish it up.

Basically, I’m building a box very similar to George Coe’s “Bug Out” trailer, but modified to go on a pickup bed instead of a trailer. George’s YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3xVuHPVJm1kSSiploqPyrwis a great introduction to a really simple build. Because I didn’t want to drill holes in my pickup bed, the best way I could think of tie it down is to make a frame I could tie down from the top of the box. It complicated the build a lot, but overall, I think it’s coming together well. My modifications to George’s Bug Out trailer are as follows:

1. I added a wood frame on the inside, made of 2x2’s. Mainly I did this to support the 2x4 rails on the outside top, plus to have places to tie things to, like shelves, curtains, etc.. I’m also of the “hell for stout” school of building, so I wanted to be sure it’s strong. It’s probably overkill.

2. I added 2x4 rails going the length of the upper outside edges on both sides of the box, inset 1.5 inches into the 2-inch foam walls, and extending 2 inches above the top of the foam sheet to be level with the roof. The main purpose of the 2x4 rails on top, as well as the 2x2 frame, is to have a solid frame at the top for anchoring the box to my pickup. I plan to use ratchet straps to hold it down from eye bolts anchored into these 2x4 rails. The 2x4’s are screwed to the 2x2 frame that is mostly inside the box, but the rafters go through the foam at the top and are screwed to the 2x4 rails using Simpson Strong Tie angle braces. My original plan (see drawing here https://www.tnttt.com/download/file.php?id=29649) had the 2x4 rails on the outside of the 2-inch foam walls, with the rafters going all the way through the foam walls. I revised and inset the 2x4’s into a 1.5x1.5-inch groove (rabbet), so they stick up 2 inches above the top of the wall. The roof then sits on the ½ inch of remaining foam and the 2x2 rafters. This way the box has clean lines outside, and the 9x12-foot Harbor Freight drop cloth canvas, when cut in half lengthwise along the seam, are just barely wide enough to cover the walls and roof. If I had gone with my original plan, I would have had to find wider canvas, or make seams somewhere on the walls and roof.

3. Instead of using OSB for the floor, I used ½-inch plywood. I also added 1.5” foam and ¼-inch plywood on top of the foam and 2x2 frame, to make a double floor. I added a 2x2 going lengthwise down the center of the floor, also. This double floor should be much better insulated, which should help us keep warm on cold nights. Also, since this is not bolting down on a trailer frame, I will add two 2x4 rails going down both sides under the plywood floor, with 2x4 cross pieces at the ends and one in the middle.

4. Because this is going on a pickup, the door is in the back end of the box, and there isn’t room for a galley. Instead, we’ll get a nice camp kitchen setup, something like one of these: https://www.bestproducts.com/fitness/equipment/g2695/portable-camping-kitchen-grill-tables/.

My goal was to build something simple and light enough that my wife and I could lift it onto the pickup ourselves. I think with the extra weight added by the double floor, and 2x4 top and bottom rails, might make it heavy enough I’ll need to get a couple neighbors to help, though. It should definitely be light enough for 4 people, though, one on each corner, to lift. I plan to install handles to make it easier to lift.

[pchast]

Why not just use 3 or 4 hardwood rails on the bottom.
They only need to be 4/4 stuff. it would be much lighter.
You should not need the cross pieces if they are glued and
screwed or pegged to the 1/2" ply. You won't have any
significant weight inside when not supported by the P/U box.