Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I have a few areas on the hatch seal that I have trued up with a little bit of wood filler. It occured to me (after the fact of course), that these are the same areas that I am planning on heavily coating with CPES.

Then I went to to panic mode wondering if the CPES will dissolve the wood filler, or how it will otherwise react with it. Will it just harden up? Will it become brittle and chip/bread off.

Just wondering since it will otherwise not be covered with anything (except paint), and will receive a fair amount of use/abuse since it is where the hatch seal will be.

I used cpes over wood filler. Worked fine for me!

Cliffmeister2000 wrote:I used cpes over wood filler. Worked fine for me!

Me too. You should be okay.

Cliffmeister2000 wrote:I used cpes over wood filler. Worked fine for me!

S. Heisley wrote:

Cliffmeister2000 wrote:I used cpes over wood filler. Worked fine for me!

Me too. You should be okay.

Ok, cool. I feel better now having heard it from the pros.

If I had to do it over again, I probably would have gotten some epoxy filler. I guess things are always clearer in retrospect.

Thanks for the input

Brian

.
I'm no pro but I've "been there, done that".

Also, I saved my sawdust in a small container; then, in spots that weren't going to show, I often used Titebond mixed with some of the 'dust. That worked really well as a filler. I sometimes used it to fill Kreg-drilled holes to insure the screws would 'never' come out and to smooth over that spot. CPES worked over that too. In fact, after 3 or 4 years, I still have CPES drips on my concrete floor, dirt and all, and the CPES drips still won't come up.

Ditto on the CPES drips. I did mine in the driveway because of the fumes. I also have Uniflex 255 drips on the drive.

Cliffmeister2000 wrote:Ditto on the CPES drips. I did mine in the driveway because of the fumes. I also have Uniflex 255 drips on the drive.

Don't worry about asking about Uniflex. It has been discontinued.
PS. It's good to know that I'm not the only one with long-lasting drips.

There are plenty of options out there for modifying epoxy for crack & gap filling. You can use chopped strand glass, collodial silica, sawdust (use the type of wood you have for a good color blend), powdered graphite or talc (Bondo is just polyester resin & talc). CPES should be able to stick to most of this stuff (not sure about the graphite) if the surface prep is done correctly prior to coating. Lots of epoxy mixes are what people had laying around at the time. You just need to have the stuff stop flowing long enough to set up.

S. Heisley wrote:

Cliffmeister2000 wrote:I used cpes over wood filler. Worked fine for me!

Me too. You should be okay.

Me three. No worries.