Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Seems a lot of people like the bed liner option and Monstaliner comes fairly highly recommenced in that category, so I was curious, to the people who have coated their trailer with Monstailner, how many gallons did it take, and how many coats did you apply when you did it? Their website seems to recommend 2 coats but as this is not a standard application I wasn't sure if people used more or less.

Thanks!

I have sprayed bedliners for 24 years and I'v sprayed a TT 8 years ago. I can tell you when you get a leek ( and you will ).... it will fail. I have a $35,000 spray rig .. skids of material ... and I'm going metal for my next build... Kevin

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=65559#p1163330

I think Dan aka kayakdlk said he used two gallons.

T

capital369 wrote:I have sprayed bedliners for 24 years and I'v sprayed a TT 8 years ago. I can tell you when you get a leek ( and you will ).... it will fail. I have a $35,000 spray rig .. skids of material ... and I'm going metal for my next build... Kevin

How does it fail? Is it sun exposure over time or vibration cracks? Just curious on your experience

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clamlamp wrote:

capital369 wrote:I have sprayed bedliners for 24 years and I'v sprayed a TT 8 years ago. I can tell you when you get a leek ( and you will ).... it will fail. I have a $35,000 spray rig .. skids of material ... and I'm going metal for my next build... Kevin

How does it fail? Is it sun exposure over time or vibration cracks? Just curious on your experience

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I was just going to ignore his comment as 1, Monstaliner is roll on not spray on, 2, they make their product for multiple purposes, and 3, he spelled leek wrong. Either that or he meant he suddenly had leeks which would be super bizarre. if bedliners cause leeks to grow all over the place maybe I don't want it!

Funny, I'm about to try out Monstaliner on a "spare parts" camper. I'm excited to try it out. After speaking with a Monstaliner representative, they recommend coating the wood with a high-gloss oil-based polyurethane prior to rolling or spraying on the Monstaliner.

Two coats of Monstaliner should cover 120 square feet at 40 mil thickness. That's as thick as a standard aluminum skin, for reference.

My initial thoughts are that thickness doesn't necessarily equal coverage? I mean, if I qiuckly roll on the coating and don't pay attention to roll it out smoothly in multiple passes, then it'll be thick but full of patches and pinholes. I would think a 40 mil coating, if consistently rolled, would be sufficient. If PMF can keep out water, surely Monstaliner can!

And yeah, I'm not sure about the comment about "leeks." Any exterior can leak. But with Monstaliner, if you do ever get damage, you can just roll on a new coat. And if you coat your entire exterior with the proper primer, such as polyurethane, then the shell's already mostly waterproofed ... right? My 2 cents, anyway.

Ya, my current plan was to polyurethane the heck out of it before putting on the Monstaliner anyway, 3 coats seems to be the magic number with poly so far for everything I've done on this project. Hopefully skinning my trailer this weekend and if everything goes well, putting the Monstaliner on in 2-3 weeks. I "think" I will need 3 gallons total to complete the 2 coats, but I kind of stink at math lol.

...with a high-gloss oil-based polyurethane..

Andrew:

I wonder why a high gloss? Did they elaborate on that?

Tony

tony.latham wrote:

...with a high-gloss oil-based polyurethane..

Andrew:

I wonder why a high gloss? Did they elaborate on that?

Tony

I was told specifically no satin or semi-gloss finishes because satin finishes have a wax in them that make topcoat adhesion much more stubborn. I also asked about a plastic adhesion promoter, and they said nope, not necessary.

Andrew Herrick wrote:

tony.latham wrote:

...with a high-gloss oil-based polyurethane..

Andrew:

I wonder why a high gloss? Did they elaborate on that?

Tony

I was told specifically no satin or semi-gloss finishes because satin finishes have a wax in them that make topcoat adhesion much more stubborn. I also asked about a plastic adhesion promoter, and they said nope, not necessary.

Did epoxy come up? I might call them down the road if I do another build.

Tony

tony.latham wrote:

Andrew Herrick wrote:

tony.latham wrote:

...with a high-gloss oil-based polyurethane..

Andrew:

I wonder why a high gloss? Did they elaborate on that?

Tony

I was told specifically no satin or semi-gloss finishes because satin finishes have a wax in them that make topcoat adhesion much more stubborn. I also asked about a plastic adhesion promoter, and they said nope, not necessary.

Did epoxy come up? I might call them down the road if I do another build.

Tony

You and I are on the same page. I was considering the same thing. Will shoot them an e-mail and find out.

You and I are on the same page. I was considering the same thing. Will shoot them an e-mail and find out.

And thanks,

T

Anyone try Line-X?

I only ask because I drive by their plant in Huntsville AL a lot, decided to look at the website, and I found they make a product that was originally targeted to bedliners but they're hawking for a whole bunch of other applications. Folks even coat their entire trucks in the stuff.

FWIW... http://linex.com/

For a chuckle, it's worth just going to the main site and regarding the Line-X-ed doughnut...

Would you be able to ask them if it could be applied over canvas like in PMF?

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Thanks folks, for posting good information here. Shelly and I know we want to fiberglass our teardrop, and then paint, or something. Hopefully, we will be near that step in late Summer.

This will be my first time with fiberglass, and I was worried about getting the finish good enough for auto paint. Think Monstaliner may be what we were looking for.

Incidentally, I once owned a Chevy Corsica, and at the 13 year point or so, the original paint was showing some issues. I spent a Christmas vacation painting it gold and black, ultimately using 12 rattle cans of Rustoleum hammer finish. Cut up paper shopping bags for masking, and used Harbor Freight masking tape. Came out great, and the hammer finish really made it forgiving of ripple, rust etc. (Sorry I don't have any pictures showing the surface detail--trust me, it's hammer finish.)



Lived in Los Angeles at the time, and, after painting this, there were certain neighborhoods where some of the young guys would smile and give me thumbs ups. Found out later, evidently, a lot of them got Corsicas from their Grandmothers and tricked them out. It was a thing.

Sure, the black paint faded after that (Rustoleum never recommended using their paint this way), but it still wasn't bad when I moved to New Mexico four years later and, out of necessity, traded it in for the (4wd) Wrangler.

Tom