Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

hi,
trying to decide on my skin material. i am after more hi tech look and trying to avoid all the trim pieces required with aluminum or other sheet options typically used.
looking for material with similar to trespa (phenolic) but more budget friendly, where edges can be exposed. has anyone used something like this before? was looking at hdpe, but it looks like it expands a fair amount. not sure what it would mean in real world application in lengths up to 6 feet. my main design focus is not having to use trims around edges etc.
any info appreciated.
thanks

Glass it with cloth and epoxy? No edges or seams, no worries about water infiltration over time.

Maybe do carbon fiber sheets? I've heard of a couple diy boats done with this, a little more expensive for the sheets but it looks doable? Anyone have experience with this on campers?

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Pmullen503 wrote:Glass it with cloth and epoxy? No edges or seams, no worries about water infiltration over time.

i have seen this done in person on 2 occasions. both looked mediocre, not sure if it was bad craftsmanship but the overlaps of cloth was visible on both teardrops. not very clean detail. field areas looked good to me. all youtube videos with fiberglass seem to show the same flaw in areas where fabrics overlap too. is there no way around this?

hsfchris wrote:Maybe do carbon fiber sheets? I've heard of a couple diy boats done with this, a little more expensive for the sheets but it looks doable? Anyone have experience with this on campers?

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i just googled some retailers and its even more than phenolic. like waay more lol.

Brankulo wrote:

Pmullen503 wrote:Glass it with cloth and epoxy? No edges or seams, no worries about water infiltration over time.

i have seen this done in person on 2 occasions. both looked mediocre, not sure if it was bad craftsmanship but the overlaps of cloth was visible on both teardrops. not very clean detail. field areas looked good to me. all youtube videos with fiberglass seem to show the same flaw in areas where fabrics overlap too. is there no way around this?

Probably either didn't know how or didn't think it worth the extra effort.

I've built boats for years and have blended as many as 6 layers down to a single layer and you can't tell; and this is clear to show the wood underneath.

You do all layers in a single session and after it's cured, you have to sand to blend the layers. That means you have to wash off the amine blush before you sand. If you don't, you grind it into the surface and you'll never get a clear finish. The final step is to make sure everything is washed clean, sanded to 180-220 grit, and give a final light coat of a non-blushing, low viscosity epoxy resin.

If you go for a painted finish, there are ways to get sharp corners if that's what you want using fillers (think Bondo but with an epoxy base not polyester resin). That's a lot of extra work but it can be done. With cloth is very hard to get a really sharp corner. I wouldn't even attempt 6oz cloth with less than a 1/4" round over.

Monstaliner over fiberglass/epoxy.



It takes 2 gallons of Monstaliner to do a 5 x 10' teardrop. It's not cheap.

Tony

I am using fiberglass and epoxy over foam for TPCE (build in my signature). Getting it to be smooth and presentable is a big reason why my project stalled.

I go into a lot of detail on how to get sharp corners, and also used a feathered layer technique to square up the fit of one of my side doors.

Would have done a few things different, but still won't be happy if it comes out looking like "potato salad butt".

but still won't be happy if it comes out looking like "potato salad butt".

The dust on the Magruder road will go nicely with it.

Tony

Yes, and it might even give me that natural winter/nautical camo effect I've been considering for the final finish; if the dust settles into the hollows just right!

KCStudly wrote:I am using fiberglass and epoxy over foam for TPCE (build in my signature). Getting it to be smooth and presentable is a big reason why my project stalled.

I go into a lot of detail on how to get sharp corners, and also used a feathered layer technique to square up the fit of one of my side doors.

Would have done a few things different, but still won't be happy if it comes out looking like "potato salad butt".

It's very difficult to sand a hard flexible fiberglass skin on a soft substrate like foam to a very smooth finish. I assumed the OP was skinning over wood. It's possible to get a very smooth finish over wood. Boat builders do it all the time.

Yup, one of the things I would do different. Less cutting edge hybrid, and more traditional wood... but still with the fiberglass, no aluminum and minimal trim/trim screws to create leaks. I still think this would result in suitably light construction, but would be far easier to get a better finish. Live and learn.