Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

well i recived a free boat trailer looks like this

after welding some free metal to make a box this is what i got now



questions is do you TD experts see in kind of flaw of how i welded this ...it is pretty solid ....im 6'1 264 and i stood on the box i welded up front and he seemed pretty solid...i just want to make sure that i wont have any unforseen problems later down the road

also cut my design out of cardboard the Benroy 4 x 10 still need to tweak out the back a little better i think the front is pretty good...what do you think...any suggestions , tips , hints.....




thanks for the info...

It does look heavy duty, for sure. The Benroy frame box is 96" and the axle is 33" from the back. Your axle appears to be a little far forward. If it is, the fender could interfere with the door and the tongue weight could also be impacted in a negative sort of way. Other than that it seems there is lots of steel there that while a structural necessity when it was a boat trailer is just added weight at a teardrop trailer. However is overall weight isn't a priority (big tow vehicle) It will work well. One other thing I have noticed on many teardrops mostly Cubbies is that they look much better when the sides of the frame are hidden by the finished outer wall. Many accomplish that by building out over the frame a little. I like the cardboard simulation and looking forward to seeing more pictures

I tend to agree with Steve tape about 6 - 8 inches to the bottom of your template and take another pic I think you will like the ground hugger look much better. The wall does not actually change just the outside skin is extended over the frame. Be sure and seal the devil out of this extention ( I made that mistake and the plywood is seperating at the very bottom due to 2 years of weather ~ mine sets out 24 - 7 all year)

Steve_Cox wrote:It does look heavy duty, for sure. The Benroy frame box is 96" and the axle is 33" from the back. Your axle appears to be a little far forward. If it is, the fender could interfere with the door and the tongue weight could also be impacted in a negative sort of way. Other than that it seems there is lots of steel there that while a structural necessity when it was a boat trailer is just added weight at a teardrop trailer. However is overall weight isn't a priority (big tow vehicle) It will work well. One other thing I have noticed on many teardrops mostly Cubbies is that they look much better when the sides of the frame are hidden by the finished outer wall. Many accomplish that by building out over the frame a little. I like the cardboard simulation and looking forward to seeing more pictures

hey thanks steve for the insight...this is going , trying to be a benroy design 4 x 10 box.....i thought i read here somewhere that the axle needs to be at 35%-40% of the length and if the box is 120" this axle sits at the 48" mark then this would make 40% of the length wouldnt this be acceptable...i could move back 4 inches if nesscaey would be better to do that now instead of later....by dropping the body down the sides i will lose 3-4 inches from the interior height would i be able to splice a 4 inch skirt on the bottom of the wall that will cover the frame..is this possible or will this be a weak point....agains thanks for the insight

I think this picture shows what I was trying to say the outside face is all that is extended. The weight of the wall rests on the 1x4 running front to back at floor level. You will notice I used 2 and 1/2 sheets standing up to make the sides. I made 1 break land at the galley wall framing and the other at a door seam to minimize the noticability of the joints. The joints are reinforced with a 1x4 centered over the subsiding seam.



This on showes the 1x4 lap joints The 1x4 at the door nearest the center of the trailer covers 1 joint and the board at the galley is the 2nd, These both rest on the 1x4 at the floor.

As to the axle placement You have enough tongue and that little vee area ahead of the box would be a great place for a tongue box. This addition would negate needing to move the axle farther to the rear. It is in effect the same as having an 11 or 12 foot box. Boat trailers are nice to tow and back up already because of the elongated tongue and I am certain you will have no handeling difficulties.

Doc...some thoughts...I would move the axle back to 42" form rear of cabin...one thing you don't want is too light a tongue weight as this will have a negative effect on handling...I would also remove all the green crossmembers you added along with any of the angled bracing...your floors and walls will take care on this...however, if they are all welded up solid and you don't mind paying the weight penalty then just leave 'em...if you build with solid 3/4 walls, an extension strip added with a spline and EPOXY will work quite well, just be sure your attachment points for the floor/body/frame are above this point...if you are building with a stick frame and skins, you would make the strip taller so that it attaches to the stick frame...whichever way, be sure and seal the HECK ouuta it with epoxy as this will be the most exposed part of the wall system...the only other thing I would HIGHLY recommend is to remove the wheels and repack/inspect the bearings/seals...looks you will be good to go after all that.........
madjack