Epoxy Question - Arrrg!

[crazycyclist]

I got ahead of my myself and forgot to remove the wax from the epoxy before the last sanding.



Now I have a few options...

• Remove the wax at this point and hope for the best.
• Apply another coat of epoxy - this is complicated because the sides are now in place (vertical) which will make it's own challenge.

Any thoughts on my problem an what the best solution would be. If I need to put another coat of epoxy in it, what is the best way to get a thin, smooth coat on a vertical surface?

[SlyTerry]

bleach / rinse /bleach /rinse sand

[Steve_Cox]

Amine blush can appear as a wax-like film on cured epoxy surfaces. It is a byproduct of the curing process and may be more noticeable in cool, moist conditions. Amine blush can clog sandpaper and inhibit subsequent bonding, but it is water soluble and can easily be removed. It's a good idea to assume it has formed on any cured epoxy surface.

To remove blush, wash the surface with clean water ( not solvent) and an abrasive pad such as a Scotch-Brite. Dry the surface with paper towels to remove the dissolved blush before it dries on the surface. Sand any remaining glossy areas with 80-grit sandpaper. Wet-sanding will also remove the amine blush.

[crazycyclist]

After looking at it again this morning, I decided I need to sand it again I treated the epoxy sanded again with 80 grit and then treated the epoxy again. Now I've got a coat of primer on so I'm feeling pretty good!

[kennyrayandersen]

It will feel better when it quits hurting.

[Aaron Coffee]

Do you have to remove the blush after each coat or just the last coat of epoxy? Also what kind of stain to use with epoxy, oil or water based?
Thanks
Aaron

[crazycyclist]

I don't use a brush to apply the epoxy. Instead I pour it on and then spread it using a spreader.

You have to sand it down between each coat. I recommend a DA (dual action) sander that Auto Body people use. It will save you LOTS of time.

I don't know for sure if it matters what type of stain you use. If no one else chimes in on this, I would call the epoxy manufacturer and ask. They should be helpful.

Biggest piece of advice: DON'T buy the cheap stuff at Lowes or Home Depot, etc. Get the expensive stuff ($100+/gallon). I started with the cheap stuff then switched to West Systems epoxy. Here are the advantages:

• No fumes - you don't have to wear a mask.
• With the right activator you have 30-40 minutes to work the epoxy instead of 5-10.
• Much easier to spread.
• Clearer coat/Better finish
• Getting the right ratio of resin to hardener is EASY!
• Did I miss anything?

Worth every penny.

[doug hodder]

Mel, once the sides are up you can top coat them with the roller made by West and you can really put down some smooth coats. I build the majority of the finish while it's laying flat but it typically gets another 3 coats when vertical.

If you mix like 6 pumps of resin/catalyst, use it up, then mix another batch, you can stretch the roller life and working time of the epoxy long enough to coat the entire thing out without losing a roller or batch of epoxy in the process. If you mix up a large batch, the clock is running on it and may go quicker since it will build up heat internally.

Others may disagree, but I've never had a blush problem with the West System. I do have a dry environment in the summer, and in the winter, have a fire going in the stove so that may be the reason.

Aniline dyes work very well for a colorant. They are more compatible with the epoxy than many of the other stain bases. Doug

[Aaron Coffee]

Read on west that water based stains seem to work best, couldn't find it any in town, a lumber yard, a hardware store, and wal-mart. Haven't checked the box stores yet. The biggest question on aniline dies is how much do I need? Also didn't get rollers with my epoxy, so what do I look for in a roller?
Thanks
Aaron

[doug hodder]

You can order an aniline dye from The Woodworkers Store, in both alcohol and water based. The water us more UV stable. You can vary the color and intensity by the fact that you mix it to what you want, as it comes as a powder. Easy to apply and doctor up thin spots, even it all out with a damp rag if it's on too heavy in 1 place.

For a roller, they can be purchased from any retail outlet that sells the West System or ordered online. I wouldn't use the rollers from HD...the disposable foam ones, as they can break apart in the epoxy and you'll have chunks of it to take care of. The west rollers are a short napped, stiffer foam than the run of the mill throw aways. Just my experience with it all. Doug

[crazycyclist]

You will have to go to a marine supply company to get West Systems or order it from one online.

[TomW]

I coated my walls in the vertical position. If possible, raise the side you are coating to higher level than the other side. I raised the right side about 12" higher than the left side. This did not make the "runs" go away completely but but it did appear to make seeing them easier to see and there fewer of them.

I can not explain it but it seemed to help.

[starleen2]

You have to sand it down between each coat. I recommend a DA (dual action) sander that Auto Body people use. It will save you LOTS of time.

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