Painting over fiberglass.

[jeff0520]

Hello all.
With the fiberglass work done I have begun to turn my attention to paint. In researching paint over epoxy I have found four major answers.
Answer 1 is "Just paint it with 100% acrylic latex exterior house paint." Answer 2 is "100% acrylic latex is fine, but sand it first to rough it up." Answer 3 is "Forget house paint, use automotive finish paint instead." Answer 4 is "Only a two part marine epoxy paint will work right."
So, what do you think?

[les45]

Latex is soft, will scratch easily and get dirty. It is good for house trim but not very durable for a vehicle. Marine epoxy paints are very expensive. I used Rustoleum oil based paint over Zinsser oil based primer (about $50 total for paint). It's been on for nearly a year now and is holding up very well. After three camping trips with rain and mud and the usual road hazards, the paint is still like new. Check out my journal for details on how to apply. If done right with a 4" foam roller, it looks like it is sprayed on.

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=49333&hilit=les45

It might also answer some of your previous questions about fillers and epoxy.

[aggie79]

Another option that I've seen is oil based farm implement/tractor paint. If you have a Tractor Supply Company near you I'd check them out. These type of paints have lot of solids and flow well so you get a smooth finish. Most have an optional hardener that helps the paint cure more quickly.

[Oldragbaggers]

I use marine paint, but not the two part. I used one-part Interlux Brightsides over Interlux Pre-Coat primer. If you decide to go that way, you can get a better price by ordering online from someplace like Jamestown Distributors than going to your local West Marine. And if you enter the coupon code LAUNCH they are giving free shipping right now for orders over $100. (No, I don't work for them or anything. I just received a sale catalog yesterday.)

[Dale M.]

Actually you can use almost any paint..... The secret here is preparation work on the fiberglass.... The surface needs to be clean, dry and slightly scuffed with light paper 600 or 800 grit will rough it sufficient.... This gives "tooth" for paint (primer) to stick to.... I have used automotive finishes, farm implement finishes, and Rust-o-leum materials... Not sure about latex house paints.... Secret is surface prep, and a primer/sealer that is compatible with surface and what ever you use as finish coat.... Its not rocket science, its following instructions on "paint system" you choose to use.... Biggest conundrum is selecting (having mixed) the color you like....

Dale

[webbaldo]

Did my fenders last week,

Sanded down the fiberglass with 240 then 320 grit

Used high build plastic primer 2 coats

Sanded with 800 grit

2 coats normal car paint

2 coats of laquer

finish is hard as nails

[doug hodder]

I've shot acrylic urethane directly over scuffed epoxy and at least 1 of my boats is 13 years old and it's still fine. It was 2 stage paint, but single stage would be fine also. I only put on primer if I plan on doing some spot putty work. Primer will fill scratches and you don't want any less than I'd say 320 grit, to lay the paint on, at least that's what I do. Primer does give you a nice even appearing surface so you can see if you have any problems prior to paint, but it's not necessary over epoxy. It is on aluminum or steel. If you are shooting a paint without a load of pigment in it, primer would be a good idea for a nice even color coat. Yellows can be bad. Others opinions may vary. Doug

[sagebrush]

Clean, dry, scuffed,compatible surface is VERY important. Probably more important than type of paint. Paints than can be used with hardner
are almost as neat as sliced bread!


Will

[jeff0520]

Alright, First, thanks everybody for the input. I'm going to go with the farm implement paint from tractor supply. It turns out that will end up being about $50.00 cheaper than the house paint I was looking at. Now I just need to go find some good videos on paint spray technique