Seconds from Disaster

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Seconds from Disaster

Postby Colorado_Carter » Tue Jul 16, 2013 11:43 am

A cuationary tale and request to see if the fix is adequate.

I found myself this sunday relaxing in hot springs at the tail end of a few days camping-life is good. Around 4ish I called it and head home.-after say 10 miles I pass through a little town (fortunatly speed limit was 45mph). I get through town hit a bump and all hell broke loose. The trailer toungue fell-I thought "#$%^" the toungue busted. I hurridly pulled over (while seeing the trailer rearend the truck a bit) with the trailer swaying side to side. I managed to get it off the side of the road safely-somehow. My heart skipped a beat here somewhere too. I go to inspect the damage, thinking that maybe I busted a weld while getting to the previous nights camp spot but as it turns out no ball on the reciever. I picked up the toungue and put the jack down and there is the ball in the reciever -no nut. As it is late I quickly lock up and run into twon to the general store with only generally touristy items. I ask but no ball in town- out the door lickity split. The next town was 30 miles away but I knew it had a Walmart and parts store. I tried the part store the guy saved my bacon and even put the ball on the reciever for me(need to drop a six pack by on my way through next time). I made it back to the trailer put it on and reassessed the damage. The wiring harness had a little road rash- the Rt and Lt turn signals and brake worked. There were no running lights and no damage to that wire or the ground, figured I'd be Ok if I made it home before dark. There was a big dent in the front aluminum and the molding is screwed up, but they weren't structural items. I did note a dent in one of the triangle members. I climbed under and inspected all the welds and tubing jumped on it and did my best side to side movement. I couldn't find any issues. I then reinspected the reciever- I think there is a bit of damage from the ball draging on the ground, it feels a hair loose. I yanked up and down several times and it felt secure. I decide that its minor and am finally able to make a long (3.5hrs), rainy, and nerve rattling trip home. Every bump I hit (150 miles over a pass and through a wicked canyon) I thought I was going to lose it.

Lots of lessons learned, and here are my fixes. Do you think this will be adequate to be safer and keep it from happening again? Am I missing anything?
1. Replace the reciever-not sure about damage, but it'll make me feel better.
2. Chains-I had an I-bolt underneath (check the pics) but based on it was almost ripped in off and ground down, I plan on attaching them to the sides this time, with high grade bolts. I can also get proper crossed chains this way.
3. Weld the nut on the ball and the reciever to itself. Its not that I didn't notice something off or just was otherwise irresposible. I have a hitch that drops down and rattles. I checked it before I left(5miles before town)-shoving the trailer around a bit and didn't notice anything unsual. I assumed the noise was hitch related. So I plan to weld it and stop the rattle.
4. Make and attach a skid plate underneath the tongue maybe 3 inches high 6 inches long. If it does happen again this will let it slide, and keep the reciever from being damaged.
5. Find the reason the running lights don't work?? its not the wiring harnes. I think there is another short somewhere, likely behind a light touching the aluminum.
6. Repair the damaged aluminum with a little cosmetics. A 1ft high Aluuminum diamond plate across the front should do the trick.

Good Luck and be safe everyone! Check those Nuts!
Thanks for listening.

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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby Dale M. » Tue Jul 16, 2013 3:14 pm

Only fix needed to actual hitch is to make sure new balls it torqued to 150-175 ft-lbs ... Insert for receiver is probably ok.... And yes get rid of silly eye bolt that can be pried open and use a solid bolt, bolting chain directly to tongue just behind hitch... Safety chains should be connected up "crossed" under hitch and short enough tongue of trailer should never hit the pavement...

Seems to me (by your description) whole problem was ball was never properly tightened to begin with..... All the extra measures you want to do (welding ball and nut) are just feel good and will not make your setup any safer, actually welding ball may eve be setting you up for a another ball failure problem down the road a bit by putting confidence in welds that may actually weaken the setup...

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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby Jiminsav » Tue Jul 16, 2013 7:15 pm

yep..welding will weaken the shank on the ball..might snap off clean during a hard jerk on the trailer. Like Dale said, new nut, new lock washer, and torgue it down and should be fine.
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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby mary and bob » Tue Jul 16, 2013 8:05 pm

I have a ball that I'm sure came from Uhaul, and it has a hole to insert a cotter pin or " hairpin" type pin below the nut. I also use a 1" shank ball that fits tight in the ball mount, or otherwise you have to use a bushing in the hole so it's a tight fit. Also sounds like you have a little play between the ball mount and receiver which is common and can be corrected by various types of tightner devices that are available. I would not weld anything on the whole hitch or ball mount. You are not the only one that has had a ball come off, happened to our daughters friends just as they came off the George Washington bridge in NY!! The trailer ended up being junked due to the resulting damage, it was a popup.
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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby bdosborn » Tue Jul 16, 2013 9:49 pm

I had the same thing happen to me - the ball came loose. Luckily, I heard it rattling around before it came off. I torqued the snot out of it with a 1" drive wrench and then I scored the threads on the ball with a file so it couldn't ever come off.

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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby Bogo » Wed Jul 17, 2013 12:17 am

I always put my balls on with the red high strength thread locking compound ;) I also torque them properly when I do them. Unless you are quite fit, when you tighten them, you likely can pull as hard as you like on an 18" wrench and not over tighten them. I get out the 24" breaker bar from the 3/4" socket set to tighten the nut. I've never had one come loose, and even when I've tried taking one off it didn't want to come off. I ended up putting the receiver in sideways, and a pipe on the breaker bar. It took bouncing on the end of a 5' pipe with all my weight to get it to rotate, but not loosen. Yeah, I have multiple receivers for different ball sizes.

Taking a coal chisel and denting the threads below the nut will likely keep the nut in place if it loosens.
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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby stumphugger » Wed Jul 17, 2013 9:20 am

I had the nut loosen up on a trip. I stopped frequently, and tightened it up with all I had, which was needle nose pliars. Since this happened in a part of the state where towns are far apart, I stopped a lot. Then, as soon as I got to a place with a hardware store, I bought a big old adjustable wrench and used it. The wrench is now always along on trips, and I check the nut every time I make a stop. It hasn't come loose since, but I still check it.

Another use for that beast of a wrench could be under the pillow or nearby if having to camp in a scary place. :)
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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby Bogo » Wed Jul 17, 2013 10:01 am

stumphugger wrote:Another use for that beast of a wrench could be under the pillow or nearby if having to camp in a scary place. :)
I have a 4 D cell Mag-Lite for that, but any of the 3/4" and 1" breaker bars I have would do fine.
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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby planovet » Wed Jul 17, 2013 10:11 am

Reminds me of another recent post: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=56391
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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby Shadow Catcher » Wed Jul 17, 2013 2:44 pm

I have a 18" HF trailer ball wrench and since I am a big boy it is torqued high and there is a lock washer. If you have a conventional hitch that must also be adjusted or you could end up with this.
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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby KCStudly » Wed Jul 17, 2013 3:25 pm

One trick that I have found useful when securing the trailer ball, besides the BFW (Big Farging Wrench) is to put the draw bar into the receiver hitch side ways in a manner that allows you to press down on the wrench to tighten the ball nut. That way you can put your weight into it and are not just relying on muscle strength. Has the added benefit of being very secure, not flipping out of a bench vise, and you are not trying to rip your vise/work bench off the wall, etc. The modern Reese balls and draw bars are great because the ball has flats at the base that register into a recess in the bar. The ball will not turn while tightening the nut; no more marring the ball with a pipe wrench trying to hold it from turning!

If you do not have a proper torque wrench and socket (which is preferred and I highly recommend), you can at least approximate the proper torque by multiplying the length of the wrench (in feet with the wrench horizontal to the ground) by the amount of weight you are applying (stand on a bathroom scale and read the difference... i.e. subtract). So let's say where you grab your wrench is 18 inches out on the handle from the center of the nut (where you also need to put the bathroom scale), you press straight down on the wrench, and the bathroom scale gets lighter by 100 lbs (goes from, say 180 lbs to 80 lbs... I did not use me in this example :oops: ), then you have applied 150 ft-lbs of torque (18 inches/12 in/ft x 100 lbs = 150 ft-lbs). It may be a crude method, but it is better than guessing. Over torquing can be as bad or worse than under torquing. Note that I have used 150 ft-lbs as an arbitrary number; you should look up or find out what the actual recommended dry torque is for your specific application.

I had to look this up, but the Henkel/Loctite application guide indicates that no torque value adjustments are required when using their thread lockers (whereas thread lubricants require a reduction in installation torque).
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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby driftwood » Thu Jul 18, 2013 10:22 pm

My wife and I had our own "disaster" a few weeks back. We were pulling our tear through Atlanta rush hour interstate traffic when the axle snapped at the wheel hub at 50 mph. The wheel and fender were ran over by cars, and we had to drag our baby on the leaf springs to the trailer. There is now a groove in the road at the I-20/I-285 interchange to mark the spot. Harrowing experience to say the least. We were able to find a mechanic to remove dissassemble the axle, and we were able to match it up at a trailer supply house and get back on the road 24 hrs later. Only problem we have now is the that the original axle was straight and the one we have on there now is cambered, which has caused our wheels to be visibly cambered. Tire wear will be a problem. No one hurt though, could have been bad!
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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby Dale M. » Thu Jul 18, 2013 10:36 pm

driftwood wrote:My wife and I had our own "disaster" a few weeks back. We were pulling our tear through Atlanta rush hour interstate traffic when the axle snapped at the wheel hub at 50 mph. The wheel and fender were ran over by cars, and we had to drag our baby on the leaf springs to the trailer. There is now a groove in the road at the I-20/I-285 interchange to mark the spot. Harrowing experience to say the least. We were able to find a mechanic to remove dissassemble the axle, and we were able to match it up at a trailer supply house and get back on the road 24 hrs later. Only problem we have now is the that the original axle was straight and the one we have on there now is cambered, which has caused our wheels to be visibly cambered. Tire wear will be a problem. No one hurt though, could have been bad!


At your leisure, you can remove axle and have camber take out of it if you so desire....

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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby driftwood » Thu Jul 18, 2013 10:39 pm

Interesting Dale, how does one go about doing that? Heat it up and straighten it?
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Re: Seconds from Disaster

Postby Bogo » Fri Jul 19, 2013 1:36 am

Controlled cold bending. Don't heat it as it is likely made out of heat treated steel.
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