Soak the Oak

[c_mac]

I am hoping to use 1/2 inch oak corner round to finish the juncture between the side wall and the ceiling. I cut 3/8 inch deep about every 1/2 inch on the back corner. I just put the trim under water to soak. Does anyone have any idea how long I might need to soak the oak to bend it through a standard front radius?

[Steve_Cox]

I am hoping to use 1/2 inch oak corner round to finish the juncture between the side wall and the ceiling. I cut 3/8 inch deep about every 1/2 inch on the back corner. I just put the trim under water to soak. Does anyone have any idea how long I might need to soak the oak to bend it through a standard front radius?

I made 1/2" quarter round out of red oak for my inside trim. Didn't have to cut the back or soak it. It bent ok, and didn't break. Did you already break some trying to bend the radius you needed? I almost built a steam box out of PVC pipe, a coleman stove and a tea kettle but didn't need it after all.

Sorry don't have the answer as to how long to soak yer oak...

[c_mac]

Yes, I broke a piece last week after I brought it home without really trying to fit it into place, only trying to fit it up against the ceiling to see how it might look. These pieces seem to feel quite brittle.

[Sonetpro]

Soak it about 15 hours. That's how I did this around my counter. 1/2 X 1" doorstop.
Loader also soaked his about the same to do his trim.

[halfdome, Danny]

Making cuts it will likely break at those cuts. Soaking isn't a good idea but if you must steaming is the best way and it has to be very hot as you bend it or it won't work. I have done lots of steam bending with Eastern Maple and even doing everything correct it will still break. Check out my molding that I made to cover the wires in my ceiling no bending required. You could try cutting the square part on the back side @ 45 deg to make it more flexible, that will relieve some of the tension too. Danny

[c_mac]

I soaked my oak for 28 hours. It was very flexible. I thought that it was going to work as it was more than flexible enough. I had made cuts to the 90 degreee corner of the quarter round. The flex did not allow me to follow the side, but wanted to go out at a 45 degree angle across the ceiling and eventually broke as I tried to twist the moulding where I wanted it. I installed LP Moulding last night and that worked fine. I think that it is some kind of plastic which comes in many pre-finished options or is also stainable. I picked it up at Menards in Barabloo, Wisconsin. I did break two pieces. I hope that I won't have problems with expansion when the tear drop sits out in a hot sun. I think that it looks pretty good. I will need to get some pictures on this site sometime soon.

[Loader]

C mac,

Sorry the soaking method didn't work for you. I do count myself lucky, and perhaps the different wood could be an issues, as I didn't use oak. I did soak for about 18 hours.

Be very interested in seeing the snappys of the LP Moulding.

[Chris C]

I'll have to agree with Danny here. Wood takes a lot longer to release water than you might imagine. It takes a 1" thick board a full year to go from first being sawn to being fully acclimated to your room (invironment). Even after it is dried fully, if it is reintroduced to water (such as soaking) it will obsorb enough to effect a finish if applied too soon. Steaming softens the outer fibers and allows them to both stretch and compress as needed and dries quickly. Soaking works, it's worked for centuries, but steaming is far more efficient and effective..........and if I had to put a tight bend on an important piece of wood, I'd be steaming it first.

[Ira]

While we're on the subject...

I took off work today in preparation for my doctor's appointment tomorrow to look at my injury on the left side of my pee pee, so of course, I threw all medical wisdom and common sense out the window and spent the last 3 hours putting the additional luan skins on my wood fenders and sanding.

So when they have to wheel me into his office tomorrow, there will be no doubt at all that this is a real medical condition.

Anyway, I have two extra lengths of the scalloped molding you see here. (Why I have two extra lengths of this while I still need two MORE lengths for my front cabinets is an HILARIOUS story that I'll one day post in Mikenchell Bloopers and Blunders.)




I was thinking that this would look really cool as trim for the top of the fenders, with rope used on the top of the sides. But this trim I have is already STAINED.

It's the standard Miniwax oil-based wood finish, so do you think I can throw it in my pool to soften it for bending without damaging the pool and/or filter? I stained it like a week ago.

[Steve_Cox]

Ira,

I think you should be careful trying to soak your wood considering your delicate condition..... just my opinion...

[dwgriff1]

If you need to bend wood it can be done. Steam bending is not difficult. A hunk of 4" pvc pipe a $12 electric teakettle. It does take a bit, however.

Instructions shold not be hard to find. Google it. Here is one siste: http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ww_decora ... 40,00.html

All woods do not bend, but Oak is one of the good ones. Remember that the easiest wood to bend would have the straightest grain.

I intend to steam bend some of the interior trim in my build.

dave

[halfdome, Danny]

It wouldn't be necessary to bend any trim if you build your teardrop from the inside out. I built mine inside out and the ceiling went over the wall framing and interior panels and made a very tight joint with no need for molding. I installed the spars after the ceiling. I made bandsawed molding only to cover my wires since I ran them inside instead of in the roof. This photo is just before I installed my ceiling. Danny