Felixx's Superleggera - It is ROAD LEGAL!

[Sheddie]

I think I would agree with Dale on the pvc.
I just used unequal right angle, 25x12. You need to have the smaller edge to the inside of the curve, but it will want to twist out a bit. Just take it slowly it will go down ok. I didn't use any screws around the edges of the side walls so didn't need to cover anything down there.

so I will get some unequal angle this week.
Do you need to tap any wrinkles out with a rubber mallet?

I guess you use glue and screws?

If you can get your hands on a blow torch of some description and heat the angle up then cool it to anneal it it will be more plyable

I didn't get any wrinkles down the edge to worry about, but the problem is that the inside of the curve needs to shrink but the metal resists that and instead of curving parallel to the flat top surface, it wants to curve parallel to a line from the two outer tips. This means that the point at the right angle wants to stick up a bit. It's not easy to explain in words. I didn't find that I needed to anneal it as it bends quite easily as it is. I used the sealant/glue and 6g 16mm s/s countersunk pozidrive screws. If you haven't got one, buy a counter sinking bit. I put sealant around the screws as well. Screws and countersink from bunnings. I drilled and counter sunk all the holes before fitting. Just slowly pull it down one screw at a time, you need to sort of bend and twist at the same time.

[felixx]

THANK YOU

Approx what is your screw spacing?

[Sheddie]

I think about 6 inch, I can check that tomorrow.

[Overnuts]

great job felixx

I have a questions for you and sheddie:

- you told about sealant/glue, which one, or at least, which kind ?

- Glue-ing aluminium-Bond-magic-panel on wood framing is good enough ?!

[dales133]

Regardless of what I'm screwing to what I aim for 250 to 300 mm (franks on the money @6") because it visual looks good and is a perfect balance between over and under screwing and even more importantly if you run into issues like Frank was explaining and you spaced at say 400 mm to 500 mm you'd need to go back and re fix in between on those bigger gaps and it would look shizen burgers

[felixx]

great job felixx

I have a questions for you and sheddie:

- you told about sealant/glue, which one, or at least, which kind ?

- Glue-ing aluminium-Bond-magic-panel on wood framing is good enough ?!

I used a sikaflex product and when I ran out on the port side I used 1 tube of that and one tube of 'no more nails'

I did run screws every 200mm or so because I only have 6 clamps so needed to help it stay on!

[Sheddie]

great job felixx

I have a questions for you and sheddie:

- you told about sealant/glue, which one, or at least, which kind ?

- Glue-ing aluminium-Bond-magic-panel on wood framing is good enough ?!

I used a sikaflex product and when I ran out on the port side I used 1 tube of that and one tube of 'no more nails'

I did run screws every 200mm or so because I only have 6 clamps so needed to help it stay on!

2014-12-28 10.56.28 (560x315).jpg (71.88 KiB) Viewed 1551 times

This is the glue recommended by Ullrich for gluing the ACL sheets to the walls and roof frames. I also used it as a sealant when fitting the alloy trims around the edges and for the roof vent. When I fitting the alloy trim down the sides of the Galley hatch, I just used the glue with a small pop rivet at each end, as out at the side edges there was only the ACL to screw into. I left it clamped for 24hrs and it wasn't going to come off after that. It 'sticks like s--t to a blanket" and remains slightly flexable. I wouldn't recommend the liquid nails for this job it dries a bit too hard.

2015-04-10 07.32.12 (315x560).jpg (53.85 KiB) Viewed 1551 times

This is what I was trying to explain about the trim wanting to twist sideways on the curves. When you see it in the flesh you really have to look hard to notice it.

[felixx]

thanks frank

[dales133]

What do you recon your sheets weigh felix, Frank?
I just got offered a deal today I almost can refuse.
It's composite sheet but for cladding buildings and the like with a solid core but not super heavy.but probably heavier than the stuff you've used.
At 70 bucks a sheet for 1.5x3.0 sheets it's cheap as and he'll cut, rout and fold what I need too.
Definatly using it on the subfloor but love some weight estimates from you.its a nice charcoal/blue grey
Good work once again by the way mate.realy like how it's coming together

[felixx]

I could JUST lift a 1.5x3.0 on its end to fit to the roof

I am unsure on weight but I figure the lack of maintanence is worth it

Glenn

PS thanks for the compliment.. I ju

[felixx]

I could JUST lift a 1.5x3.0 on its end to fit to the roof

I am unsure on weight but I figure the lack of maintanence is worth it

Glenn

PS thanks for the compliment.. I just figured an easy way to seal doors.. Pics in the next 48 hours

I get my new company car on tues.. cannot wait to get this towed somewhere (no towball on Anglia yet)

[dales133]

Go you!

[Sheddie]

What do you recon your sheets weigh felix, Frank?
I just got offered a deal today I almost can refuse.
It's composite sheet but for cladding buildings and the like with a solid core but not super heavy.but probably heavier than the stuff you've used.
At 70 bucks a sheet for 1.5x3.0 sheets it's cheap as and he'll cut, rout and fold what I need too.
Definatly using it on the subfloor but love some weight estimates from you.its a nice charcoal/blue grey
Good work once again by the way mate.realy like how it's coming together

I just checked Ullrich website. 3mm ACL 3.8kg/sq metre, 4mm 4.8kg / sq metre. I have 4mm on mine. That would make around 70kg for roof and sides.

[dales133]

Hmm I think this stuff isn't much more.
It's 4 mm with a grey core.

[Sheddie]

Hmm I think this stuff isn't much more.
It's 4 mm with a grey core.

Is that alloy skinned. Is there a brand name on it?