skinnedknuckles wrote:Bob,
I like how you are thinking with you're decisions about welding equipment. I have been welding for over 30 years with everything from oxy-acetylene, spot, stick ,mig and tig. Once you learn how to do it you will find more and more projects to do. Just get the best equipment that you can afford. I will never forget the first mig machine that I bought, it had a cheap roller mechanism and it would not keep tension between the rollers on the wire and it was very frustrating trying to weld. Classes are helpful but the big thing is practice practice practice and throw some patience in the mix too, it can become very frustrating learning to Northrn Toolthe right technique. Aluminum is tricky to weld, cleanliness is VERY important. One thing to think about , get some cheap long sleeve shirts so your arms are protected. Nothing too thick and heavy, that makes welding a bit more tricky, the more you weld the more you will notice the weight of the torch/gun that you are holding and any kind of heavy clothing. A big reason for a light shirt is when that big weld berry burns thru your sleeve you want that thing to be able to burn back out and not get stuck inside burning a hole in your arm - ouch. The same goes for shoes, tennis shoes are a no no, berries just burn right on in and that hurts. If you have some kind of leather boot that would be better just make sure that the tongue has a flap that attaches the tongue to the side of your boot so berries don't find their way inside. Denim material can be a concern too, if you have any holes where the material is stringy I have found that the little strings act as little burning fuses that can hurt . Don't forget that there may be some good used welders for sale in your area, check around.
Have fun burning wire and melting metal and yes throw some pictures on here both good and bad we maybe able to help you with some tips,
Paul
justageorgiaguy wrote:I've been following this thread as I plan to start teaching myself to weld as well. My dad has a Millermatic 135, will that be sufficient to weld .125 and maybe a little thicker square tubing?
KCStudly wrote:How do your welds look so far?
If the machine can lay good beads than you should be able to, too. If the machine is iffy, then how do you know if it is the machine or you?
Just saying. One thing to do to give it the best shot at laying good welds is to make sure you feed it an adequate supply of power. It may have already been mentioned but those little machines don't usually like being placed at the end of a long extension cord.
skinnedknuckles wrote:Bob,
Here is a little test so you can see what kind of penetration that welder gets. Take 2 pieces of 1/4" steel or maybe a little thinner ( 1/4 x 2 would be ideal ) grind beveled edges on the pieces where you would weld them together, only go about half way down the thickness of the edge. Only do this on the area where you are going to put the weld bead. Turn your welder up to max voltage and you may have to play with the wire speed to get it close to right ( do this on a flat surface not trying to join anything , get it so you get a nice puddle to "chase" ). Now put those two pieces together with a very small gap between and burn them together on only the top surface ( don't cheat and weld the bottom surface tooI won't say who did this back in high school for a welding test ) Then put it in a vise and bend it over the weld area, you would like to see a good bend of the parent and weld area of the metal, with weld holding up well and not breaking . I figure the best way to learn to weld is first with an oxy-acetylene gas torch that way you can figure out what metal does when heated and melted together and how to chase your weld puddle. With mig welding you can have a pretty looking weld on the outside and very little penetration and/or porosity in your weld. I like your thoughts on spending your kids inheritance now using the item for what you need and then it can be handed down
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Paul in Janesville, Wisconsin
still making messes just like when I was little
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