Realistic budget ?

[daveesl77]

This is in response to a question by Rusty Tools...

Cull lumber is essentially lumber that doesn't pass inspection for it's desired grade. Instead of dropping the grade, the stores would just knock 70-80% off the price. In my case I would buy 1x8, 1x10 and 1x12 pine boards with lengths up to 14' from the "cull lumber" stack at HD (most lumber yards have one). I would get these for next to nothing, some for free. Some might have a split in one end or a few knot holes. I ripped them down to make my own 1x4 for framing. I also scored with a fair number of western red cedar, which got resawn down for my siding and other areas.

Wiley Windows are actually an ancient design for boats. You'll find many threads on these. When done right they are water tight in even the strongest wind/rain conditions, can be in an open position during extreme rain storms or can have the "glass" removed for full opening. There are no moving parts. Think of a jalousie window that is upside down, with a permanent side frame and is open to the inside.

dave

[bamajoe]

[/quote]
Nice trailer frame , Looks like you have enough frame to add a 2 car garage with a deck ! [/quote]

ya it looks like it doesn't it... My plan is to strap a motorcycle on the front there.. Like in this early mockup..

[JaggedEdges]

But, but it's 90 degrees off, it will just pull it in circles

I know, I know, just got me wondering if anyone has done a trike "class C" with a teardroppish rear end... think I saw one with a cabover once.

[JaggedEdges]

Something I'm considering, was a couple of years back I saw some "budget" cedar closet planking, that was a pack of about 4x4 coverage for $12 or so, knotty as all heck, but there you go. Anyway, I was pondering getting hold of some of that, edge gluing it all together, on wax paper on flat floor, possibly tacked down, wedge between batons to get good joints... in a 4x8, then treating that as the inner ply skin instead of a sheet of ply. ... ... ... I guess the trick is finding it again, was in one of the big home improvement chains, but not sure which now. Maybe would have needed 5 packs to do two sides though if you wanted to reject the odd piece. Anyway, that was one "nicer than cheapest exterior ply, on a budget" type idea I came up with..... in theory you could go bigger than 4x8 with it, with staggered overlap, but I think it would be difficult to handle, got a lot of top to bottom strength but not a lot front to rear, so good stringers needed maybe, or a bit more than a skin on the exterior. A pack felt fairly light, but you could run into weight issues on a weight tight build I guess.

[lacofdfireman]

I started with a planned budget of around $1800-2000. I don't even want to add up my receipts because I guarantee I'm at least double that. But I have a lot of expenses in tools etc also. Whatever you think it's going to cost double it and you'll be close.


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[JaggedEdges]

Yah with any project watch out how all the little pieces of hardware can nickel and dime you to death. Some bracket or hinge or adapter or something might be $4.99 in the bubble pack at a large chain store, but the independent hardware stores might have them loose in a box for a buck and a quarter. Generally, Home Hardware is a lot better for stuff like that. Walmart is not as cheap as you think for things like towing accessories etc that you might need, try Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, or in Canada, Princess Auto.

[Donutboy]

Also, watch for seasonal discounts. Bought my air conditioner in the fall for $75. Bought my sink, a thick steel bar sink, with fitted cutting board, for $25 from a Home Depot in February when they were clearing out plumbing fixtures. I got in the habit of walking through the sections where I knew I would need something very time I visited.

[JaggedEdges]

Yah, I'm collecting what I find. Snagged a bar sink for $5 at a yard sale last week. Snagged a small pile of shallow containers for a buck today, that I think I'll conscript as kitchen drawers. Also got a coleman powered cooler, had a koolatron but it's huge and klunky and was going to be a pain to incorporate space for in the more minimal 8' length, think this one will be easier to slot in... don't care much if I need a second small cooler, then I'll separate stuff into critical to keep cold like dairy and meat, and best kept coolish, like salad, veggies, open condiments. Or I'll "stage" things like food for 3 or 4 days in, will stay in a not-opened cooler, that it all went into frozen, and stayed in there wrapped in spare blankets or bubble wrap until in the TV until first 3 or 4 days food used up.

[snapper388]

I built mine from an old popup. the popup had a lot of the things I needed . a/c, converter, door lock, lights, porch light, marker & tail lights and a few other things, I also ripped most of the framing from used and discounted lumber.

[rustytoolss]

I built mine from an old popup. the popup had a lot of the things I needed . a/c, converter, door lock, lights, porch light, marker & tail lights and a few other things, I also ripped most of the framing from used and discounted lumber.

Did you reuse the old popup's roof /lid panel ? How much does it weigh ? Wood/foam info.

[snapper388]

I framed the top with 1x3s and 1x4s , I used 2 1x3s next to the a/c, 1x3 framing on end walls, 1/4 luan for sheathing and used titebond 2 canvas and paint.the walls are framed with 1x2s and 2x2s with 1/8 luan interior and exterior walls and ceiling, 1/2'' Styrofoam insulation. I have not had it weighed yet but I estimate between 800 & 1200 pounds.

[rustytoolss]

From the completed photo. The top looked to be from the popup.

[mikeschn]

Canvas and white paint will do that to you!

Mike...

From the completed photo. The top looked to be from the popup.