Well that is anoying. changing to SS screws

[Shadow Catcher]

I have been changing the painted steel screws which have been rusting to square drive stainless steel. I am finding some of them with seriously rusted shanks and a couple of them have broken off. This because Eye 4 Design did not seal things properly. Moral of this story, You might want to consider SS screws.

[tony.latham]

I have been changing the painted steel screws which have been rusting to square drive stainless steel. I am finding some of them with seriously rusted shanks and a couple of them have broken off. This because Eye 4 Design did not seal things properly. Moral of this story, You might want to consider SS screws.

Who's "Eye 4 Design"?

[Shadow Catcher]

The folks that built our tear. Actually both of them we owned the first one they built and the seventh and last one they built which incorporated all the wants we learned from number one. There are many great features but we had to threaten to sue to get our paid for but not complete tear. Long story and there are just some things not done correctly.

[Dave Nathanson]

Be careful about the quality of the stainless steel screws you buy. I bought SS screws at Home Depot, Lowes, and Osh hardware and accidentally twisted them apart!

While this might seem like I was using overly big or powerful tools, or had Hulk Hogan helping me, in reality I was using a short socket wrench to tighten SS machine screws into a SS nut, and all those screws were just terrible quality.

I've since favored grade 5 and grade 8 hardware, which also doesn't rust, but even more importantly doesn't break in my bare hands.


Dave Nathanson & Louise's Adventures
http://td.roughwheelers.com

[MtnDon]

Be careful about the quality of the stainless steel screws you buy. I bought SS screws at Home Depot, Lowes, and Osh hardware and accidentally twisted them apart!

It is a common misconception that stainless steel is stronger than regular steel. In fact, due to their low carbon content, many stainless steel alloys cannot be hardened through heat treatment. Therefore, when compared to regular steel, the stainless alloys used in bolts and screws are slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel but significantly weaker than hardened (grades 5 & steel fasteners. Unless great care is taken, stainless fasteners are susceptible to seizing up during installation, a phenomenon known as galling. FYI, I use Loctite 771 on all my S/S bolts. Screws are also more susceptible to having the drive head torn out by the screw driver bit. You gain corrosion resistance at a cost.

Also note that ordinary iron or steel tools can contaminate the S/S surface with "raw iron" that rubs off the tool onto the S/S fastener. That can give a spot wear rust will show. In the marine world a top grade mechanic will have a set of tools made from Chrome Vanadium steel that are reserved for use with only S/S fasteners.

[Shadow Catcher]

All of these are #8 X 1" going into existing holes.
Bolts are grade 8 gold anodized.
Most of the trailer is welded.

[les45]

I've also found a lot of rusted screws in my current pop-up project, mostly where leakage had occurred. I am not replacing anything that is intact and dry, but where I do have to replace or rebuild, I am using only stainless. I buy mine from Fastenal in bulk quantities, mostly #8 x 1". Not sure if they are any better than the big box stuff but I've never had a problem with breakage or heads stripping. I used these same screws throughout on my weekender. One thing I do when replacing a screw in a good hole is to drive a toothpick into the hole to give the new screw a better grip. If the head is on the exterior and exposed to the elements, I also add a dab of silicone caulk to the hole before driving the screw.