HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

[McDave]

Ok, I just got caught up with the electrical issues. First impressions made me worry about your set up. Let me gather my thoughts and I'll do my best to help ya. Back soon...

McDave

[Tommy B]

Your living a dream a dream Mcdave. When it all goes bust I'm headed for the Rockies. Don't come east it will be a jungle.

The hood set up now and a shot of the box and extension cord from the house is over the floor flange. The other yellow cord coming up through the floor is going up to the hood. The short male yellow is as I said. Suicide adapter. Yes I understand. I do have it right but have to bring in the hood wire and I find a better way to charge the double gang. I will think this through per my wife for once. Don't want to die yet!

[McDave]

Hey Tommy,
Sorry pal, we locked the gates a long time ago. Some still got in but they won't be stayin..We know who they are and where they are. So... I'll put in a good word for ya but you'll still have to prove it. If you make it past Wyoming you'll be OK.

McDave

[flboy]

Tommy, Hard wire it in or get the correct input. Those suicide adapters are dangerous. I built a back feed for my dryer at home to connect up to a 5.5KW generator after a storm. I actually did that right after hurricane Francis back in 2004 or whenever it was and there were no stores open and we had no power. It was convenient because it was 2 phase and powered both rails in the breaker box. I could power whatever I wanted to in the house by flipping breakers and I had no extension cords running all over the place. It was done in an emergency situation and I haven't used it since. I did that without a transfer switch also. I know how to use it safely, but is scares me if I am not around and someone messes with it. They could hurt/kill themselves and/or back feed the FPL transformer and hurt/kill the FPL Lineman if they don't pull the main service breaker. I am going to do it right one day when I get a chance and toss that stuff....but you know how that goes... it is never a good time until you need it.

I learned to respect electricity the hard way in Electronics Warfare School in the Army... lucky I had a young heart then. I lived to get yelled at by my instructor.

[McDave]

I would look at electrical as a "system", similar to your house wiring. Starting with a 30 amp twistlock input mounted on exterior, then wired to breaker panel or RV breaker/converter like PD4045 or WFCO 8900 series, these give AC circuits as well as 12 volt, and battery charger. The 12v works great for lighting and pumps and such. AC side for air cond., furnace, refrig, Water heater, range etc. It makes for a nice clean, safe, understandable system. Also if you stay at RV parks you just plug in and enjoy. Also can work with generator. Then if you want solar you can add it.
I will be mostly 12v, except air cond. and refrig is 12/120. I'd like to do solar next yr. Probably a grand or so to get that system. But then you can be autonomous till you run out of food or water.

McDave

[Tommy B]

Hitting the books on Basic RV Electricity.
Need to do this right. The previous set up is suicide. Yes Mcdave. Time to step up and get one of those or something very much like it. It is a must for safety.
Researching.
Thanks.

[Tommy B]

Looking along these lines.

[Tommy B]

OK. This is it. Did my research. Pretty simple for my application. Spoke with Factory and then a few recommended Dealers per the Factory. Very Nice people.
Model#4135 35 amp.

[Tommy B]

New from Progressive Dynamics, the 4135 is a Compact All-In-One-System. Available with our exclusive built-in Inteli-Power Converter…“The most reliable converter in the RV industry. The converter section is easily serviceable. The AC Distribution Panel is rated for 120 VAC@ 30 Amps with up to 5 branch circuits. The DC section has 6 branch fuse holders, with a maximum rating up to 30 Amps each. All wire tail connections for easy installation.
144.00 or there about. Going to order this today.

The 4135 features, Reverse Battery Protection
•Total Charge Management System
•Electronic Current Limiting
•Back Up Thermal Protection
•Direct Replacement for WFCO 8735
•Over and Under Voltage Protection

[McDave]

Bingo! That is exactly the type of system I had in mind. I can't speak to quality or performance of one brand or model over another, but that is the concept. It's not a ton of Peso's, but you gain a lot. Most motorhomes and travel trailers and cabin cruisers have something like this. It makes sense to me, from a safety and technical and operational viewpoint. Circuits are defined and protected, as are the user.
I like your style Tommy. You identified the problem, got knowed up, and took action. Wash, Rinse, Repeat....
Outstanding.

In other news, Slider and cabinet ideas...

http://www.completecabinethardware.com/ ... -6-ft-kit/
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware ... r+hardware
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware ... r+hardware

Apply as necessary...

McDave

[Tommy B]

Hey Mcdave. I decided to go with the KIWI sunbrella curtain there for a few reasons. Simplicity mostly. The slider would not be able to close all the way because of the damn hood. OH that hood has caused some trouble. The thick curtain material should seal that space better while in defcon 4 mode too.
Thanks for all the really great ideas. The electrical help was priceless. to Mciver,,errr Mcdave!

[Tommy B]

RV Powerhouse
These guys are the least expensive and recommended by the Factory that makes the 4135

I like there service and pricing also

So I have mapped out a plan to wrap this all up. Now I will fabricate the panel. Curtain is on its way as well as the 4135, adapters, inlets and a power cord.

[Tommy B]

Unless this happens.

[Tommy B]

Oh man this will have its challenges. That DC buss panel will not be used. Wasted money. This thing is wall mounted and you will need easy access to the rear. And it needs to be close to were the DC buss Panel is but away from the wall. The big single panel that will cover that area is pretty far forward and the battery cables would not reach but that seems the best bet. A small hinged portion that would allow me to open like a door. The wires would have to have enough extra length to accommodate the swing. But I would need extra long battery cables, say 6-8 feet or so. Is that bad??? . That's a long distance and I think it will sap the dc voltage coming and going, right?

Anyone see a better way.

Cut out is 10.25 long and 7 inches high. 4 inches deep. I would like to keep it to the back but I don't see it.

Thanks
I

[Tommy B]

just another angle of it all