HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

[flboy]

Tommy, if you put (move) the hinges on the topside of the bed, it will be on the same plane with the edge when you set down the bed. No need to do anything else except to trim the legs the width of a 2*4 if i am looking at this correctly. I didn't get a good look at that last weekend as it was up against the wall, but the pic is clear. I really think that will solve the problem.

[Tommy B]

What this set up allows is that when the bed is raised up the entire mattress and the bed frame set on the ledge. This takes all the weight off the hinges while up and in transport mode. I did consider the wash board roads, vibration, etc. in that set up. I'm ok with that.

I need to think where I want the fold down table. ON the back of the murphy bed or in front of the window. The plan is to attach it to the bed.

Any input is appreciated.

Ah yes I will finally insulate the ceiling this week as I have the material. Will be interesting to see the difference it makes as that metal get almost too hot to touch in the afternoon.

Hey Hank, Hi back at ya. Thanks for the hello. Good to be back at it. Many cool changes coming.

[Tommy B]

A pic of the roof before insulation. Per Dons Instruction IM going to splice a connection into the yellow winch controller and hook up a DC outlet pretty much right under the winch controller. This will be used for the Dometic. I also will reinstall that small fold down shelf right under the window an now that I look at it the bigger fold out table will go on the back of the murphy bed.

[flboy]

Not into the controller. Just splice into the heavy gage 12vdc supply line to the controller at some convenient, out of the way, place.

You are making some serious improvements!

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[Tommy B]

Yes Don, that was my intention on the controller but I will have to ask you to do it. I can not crimp that gauge wire nor solder it with my small solder iron but what ever you think is best on that matter.

So one small bite at a time... the bed....this will be such a big diiferance.

[Tommy B]

just need to trim and tack the carpet back on to the bed frame after work today. The modification reduced the frame weight considerately. I no need to find some general 3 1/2 inch foam by 66 inches or so for that one space but I really think I will like it. Also I will have another triple socket DC outlet to install tomorrow for the Dometic,, and what ever else just south of the window some.

I looked for pics of any 6x12 trailer with a rear ramp door that had a window installed and could not find one. Maybe a crazy idea? It would be awesome but would require an interior cover that was easy to remove, stout enough to do the job and easy on the eye. I AM going to have to come up with something similar for the new side window any way as my TTRs right throttle will most definitely lean against it while in transport in the chock.

[Tommy B]

Got a small portion of the roof insulated but its slow and tedious work for me.

This new GFI out let in the kitchen is the bomb. The Don bomb. It is really convenient for the coffee pot and who knows what else. The yellow wire will be dealt with some how but a small concern.

Another big addition is an exterior city water hook up! Will post that pic shortly.

[Tommy B]

I never could have done this myself. I cant thank Don enough.

[Tommy B]

Tongue in groove for the ceiling. I need to purchase a 10 inch chop saw now to finish. Much work and time here.

[McDave]

That ceiling will be great in there. Worth the effort for sure. Insulation will be nice too. Nice work Tommy.

McDave

[hankaye]

Tommy, Howdy;

Movin' "Up-town" with that overhead. Looks beautiful, gonna stain it or just
leave it be??? Nosey minds and all that ...


hank

[Tommy B]

Tommy, Howdy;

Movin' "Up-town" with that overhead. Looks beautiful, gonna stain it or just
leave it be??? Nosey minds and all that ...


hank

Hey everybody. That is just clear varnish and for better or worse that is how it will be. It really lights up the CT . Now the ramp, floor and kitchen look so bad I will tackle them now and finish this thing out. I am hesitant to reinstall he shower set up too as it is some what of an I sore.

[McDave]

Take a look at this set up, may give you some ideas. Not sure but I think it folds up for travel or when not in use. Or you might think about converting bathroom to a "wet bath" style? Also, here are a couple shower styles I thought looked good. They are for "Pool Showers" and the black one is a solar heated unit. Maybe just have an outdoor shower set up?





McDave

[Tommy B]

Take a look at this set up, may give you some ideas. Not sure but I think it folds up for travel or when not in use. Or you might think about converting bathroom to a "wet bath" style? Also, here are a couple shower styles I thought looked good. They are for "Pool Showers" and the black one is a solar heated unit. Maybe just have an outdoor shower set up?





McDave

Thank you McDave. I really like the the tub. Simalar to my set up now. I some how will keep it in doors. A quick disconnect for the whole whoop and curtain setup would help. IDK but I will figure it out pronto.

[flboy]

Tommy, instead of the whole hoop thing, why not get a few light earth magnetic hooks for curtain (maybe 5 or more as desired) and then just screw or glue 5+ metal washers to the roof in circular pattern where you want to attract the magnetic hooks that hold the curtain. No more hoop!Then just stick the curtain up when you want and fold it up and put in drawer when it dries out.

You can get a fabric shower curtain similar to what I use. They dry quick and fold up small and are not stiff plastic.

Could also get a collapsible water catch for basin to eliminate blue bin.

I will edit with magnetic hooks and water catch I have in mind.

Edit.. here you go. All for $50.00. Problem solved. All portable and foldable with no hoop. Could use existing basin of course. But this one would be less confined and is flexible to fit your space. Bonus as it does fold up small for storage.

The hooks in any case solves the hoop dilemma.















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